Infinity Problems on Day 2

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triplec76

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Apr 19, 2009
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Top cap came loose (saw the fix here in this subforum). Larger issue is no 510 atomizer/cartomizer works. Only 510 to 901 adapter with 808 cartomizer works. I've tried pulling out the contact a little bit on the 510 atomizers and cartomizers with no luck (atomizers and cartomizers with visible stub protruding beyond threads not functioning). Any ideas?

Mike, I left a message through the chat deal on the website.
 

Bovinia

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Trip if you can gently ease the center post up on you Infinity it might make contact. I was able to raise mine by wedging my fingernail file between it and the threads and rock it back and forth a little bit, working my way around. If you aren't comfortable doing that, then wait for Mike or Teri to get back to you tomorrow :(

Mike had a monster multi birthday bash this weekend and probably won't see your message until his eyes open without bleeding LOL
 

triplec76

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Okay, the non firing issue may be directly related to the top cap coming loose. After posting above, I totally removed the top cap, applied red loctite and reseated firmly. After tightening down the top cap completely, it is now functioning normally.

Mike, is there some kind of contact where the top cap has to be seated completely to close a circuit for the unit to fire? I saw one or two flat metal pieces attached to the wall of the interior. Only looked for a second, but wasn't sure if they were holding something to the side or if they were for continuity.
 

triplec76

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Thanks for the reply. I will check on this tomorrow after the loctite cures to see if this is a seperate issue. Those adapters have a contact post that can really stick out, so I wonder if I mistakenly screwed on the 808 cartomizer first which made the post stick way out. Then screwed it onto the infinity and pushed the infinity's contact post down. Didn't know it could move.

Trip if you can gently ease the center post up on you Infinity it might make contact. I was able to raise mine by wedging my fingernail file between it and the threads and rock it back and forth a little bit, working my way around. If you aren't comfortable doing that, then wait for Mike or Teri to get back to you tomorrow :(

Mike had a monster multi birthday bash this weekend and probably won't see your message until his eyes open without bleeding LOL
 

triplec76

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Well cool beans Trip, glad it's working again! It'll be interesting to see the answer to your question...I assumed it would have a wire on it.

It does have a wire (2, actually), assuming you are talking about the top cap. I thought I tried firing it with the cap totally off and it didn't work. Once seated, it worked again. After thinking about that for a second, it made me wonder if there was some sort of safety contact in there. Seems like that would be over engineering this little thing, but who knows.
 

paco

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It does have a wire (2, actually), assuming you are talking about the top cap. I thought I tried firing it with the cap totally off and it didn't work. Once seated, it worked again. After thinking about that for a second, it made me wonder if there was some sort of safety contact in there. Seems like that would be over engineering this little thing, but who knows.

Well yes and no, the positive runs through a wire into the center post, and the negative runs from the bottom of the battery to the end cap which is connected to the housing which is connected to the top cap which finishes the connection to the outer threads of the atty/carto. If you have a buzz and are checking the voltage try sticking the negative contact on the outside of the buzz, and you will see the same voltage. That's how these types of mods complete the current.

So in turn yes the top and bottom cap have to be touching the main housing to complete the current which then fires up the atty/carto.
 

BuzzKill

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We use an SLB 510 battery connector and it appears that they do not play well with all attys/cartos! ???? wiggle the center post up a bit using a small screwdriver or ? and it should make contact.

I just got a quote on a custom made top cap like on the Buzz , I will be changing them to this new design later ( they are not replaceable at this time )
 

BuzzKill

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Okay, the non firing issue may be directly related to the top cap coming loose. After posting above, I totally removed the top cap, applied red loctite and reseated firmly. After tightening down the top cap completely, it is now functioning normally.

Mike, is there some kind of contact where the top cap has to be seated completely to close a circuit for the unit to fire? I saw one or two flat metal pieces attached to the wall of the interior. Only looked for a second, but wasn't sure if they were holding something to the side or if they were for continuity.

Trip did you notice a BLUE substance on the threads ? we use a blue thread locker now ( MY tests went good and I could not the the test caps to come off without serious help ! )
the top cap provides a ground to the circuit though the tube , there are 2 wires to the top cap ground and Hot .
 

triplec76

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Apr 19, 2009
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No, it was grey. I kind of brushed off what I could and applied the loctite. I'm hoping now that the top cap is secure and not moving around that I won't have any more problems. Thank you for the replies.

Trip did you notice a BLUE substance on the threads ? we use a blue thread locker now ( MY tests went good and I could not the the test caps to come off without serious help ! )
the top cap provides a ground to the circuit though the tube , there are 2 wires to the top cap ground and Hot .
 

triplec76

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I thought about your comment today. I don't think the top cap is a requirement as long as there is a ground wire that is attached from the metal body of the infinity to the 510 battery connector. If your statement were true, how would a plastic box mod work? It only does because there is a ground wire from the battery's (-) terminal to the body of the connector. The only requirement is the bottom cap which on this and other metal tube mods, grounds out the entire tube.

I think I have that right. Maybe I should visit the mod forum and brush up on the subject.

Well yes and no, the positive runs through a wire into the center post, and the negative runs from the bottom of the battery to the end cap which is connected to the housing which is connected to the top cap which finishes the connection to the outer threads of the atty/carto. If you have a buzz and are checking the voltage try sticking the negative contact on the outside of the buzz, and you will see the same voltage. That's how these types of mods complete the current.

So in turn yes the top and bottom cap have to be touching the main housing to complete the current which then fires up the atty/carto.
 

5cardstud

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I thought about your comment today. I don't think the top cap is a requirement as long as there is a ground wire that is attached from the metal body of the infinity to the 510 battery connector. If your statement were true, how would a plastic box mod work? It only does because there is a ground wire from the battery's (-) terminal to the body of the connector. The only requirement is the bottom cap which on this and other metal tube mods, grounds out the entire tube.


I think I have that right. Maybe I should visit the mod forum and brush up on the subject.
Plastic mods have a pos and neg wire that go to the atty connector like you said. Electricity has to make a complete loop to work.
 

triplec76

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That could be. I can't remember if the LED lit or not with the top cap off. There were two wires that I saw because I was a little concerned about turning the cap back on that they would break off. It has fired all day today since loctiting the top cap down.

You mean the Infinity has a pos and neg wire going to the atty connector? Why, the batteries ground through the body. I believe Mike said the cap has to be in place to complete the circuit.
Ya in post 11. That neg wire might be for the PCB.
 
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