INR - IMR...

[frjaldomr]

So, I have a mech box mod on the way and I'm going to get some new 18650s to pair.
I went to RTD to look at the 25Rs...I had no idea there was such a thing as INR.
I did a bit of research, and what I'm seeing is that the INR chemistry isn't quite as safe as IMR.
Now I'm looking at the AW IMR18650 3000mAh 20A FLAT TOP
So, if you're a battery 'in the know' type, and you're buying new 20A cells these days, what would you buy?

 

[Freedom2Vape]

Have you looked at @Mooch battery safety guide? Here is a link. I've found his testing to be very helpful in selecting great batteries.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...des-picking-a-safe-battery-to-vape-with.7447/

 

[frjaldomr]

Yes, I've read all through Mooch and Baditude's blogs, ect...
Batt info can be outdated, and I haven't been keeping up in the last few months, so I thought I'd ask a direct question.

 

[Baditude]

"INR" is what Samsung calls their line of IMR-hybrid batteries. Panasonic calls their line of IMR-hybrid batteries "NCR". They are still considered to be safe chemistry; adding either manganese (IMR) or nickle (INR or NCR) to lithium batteries makes them safe chemistry.

IMR hybrids are also generally "high drain" batteries, which means an 18650 IMR/hybrid will have at least 10 amps CDR of current, most will have 20 amps CDR, and a couple have 30 amps CDR. ICR chemistry batteries (Li-Ion) are not safe chemistry and not high drain (usually less than 4 amps).

When choosing a brand of battery, I recommend purchasing from one of the reputable "BIG NAME" brands such as AW, LG, Panasonic, Samsung, or Sony. These companies actually make their own bare cells (as opposed to companies who re-wrap the tier 2 or tier 3 batteries of the big name brands. AW allegedly has agreements to purchase first tier bare cells of the big name manufacturers, and does their own quality control of those cells before placing an AW re-wrap on them.

Mooch also has some excellent data on a wide variety of brands/models. I believe he would agree with my recommendations above.

I personally use Sony VTC4 and Samsung 25R, but wouldn't be opposed to using AW 3000mah 20 amp or LG-HG2 3000mah 20 amp (may be the same cell).

 

[NinoCappuccino]

LG HE4 35A 2500mah works and lasts on everything. HE2 isnt newer omthan HE4. 3 months older tech but still good for low wattage mods.

 

[Mooch]

LG HE4 35A 2500mah works and lasts on everything. HE2 isnt newer omthan HE4. 3 months older tech but still good for low wattage mods.

The HE4 is a 20A cell but, you're right, it is a good one.

 

[Mooch]

So, I have a mech box mod on the way and I'm going to get some new 18650s to pair.
I went to RTD to look at the 25Rs...I had no idea there was such a thing as INR.
I did a bit of research, and what I'm seeing is that the INR chemistry isn't quite as safe as IMR.
Now I'm looking at the AW IMR18650 3000mAh 20A FLAT TOP
So, if you're a battery 'in the know' type, and you're buying new 20A cells these days, what would you buy?

Many of the cells we consider to be safe, the 25R, VTC4, VTC5, and many of the LG's are INR chemistry. While this "hybrid" chemistry, on paper, isn't as safe as IMR it's still plenty safe for vaping. INR is still considerably safer than ICR.

Compared to IMR, INR has a lower thermal runaway threshold temperature and a slightly more violent reaction when in runaway. But the only way to get to that high a temperature is by short-circuiting the cell and then just about any cell will give you trouble. Even if severely overstressed INR cells will just vent, the same as IMR cells. While AW has pretty good cells I wouldn't overlook using tried & true cells like the 25R or VTC4 when using a mech.

I agree with @Baditude, if you're not pulling more than 20A from each cell you can use the HG2 or AW 3000mAh.

If you expect to be pulling more than 30A from each cell I would recommend the 1500mAh LG HB6. It runs cooler than any other cell available to a vaper and can handle extraordinary amounts of current.