Insanely high voltage drop?

Status
Not open for further replies.

asvaldr

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 8, 2014
233
147
indonesia
I'm using Sony vtc4 battery and got this reading on my hcigar nemesis with my oakley haka voltage tester
rybu6a7y.jpg


But when i tested with my hcigar trident v1 on it i got this
uruqagug.jpg


With Aga T2
ygave6e5.jpg


I haven't tested it with my other atty though, can anyone explain it to me? Is it caused by the tester, atty, or the mod?

Sent from my GT-P6200 using Tapatalk
 

Ryedan

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 31, 2012
12,869
19,652
Ontario, Canada
I cleaned my nemesis for the testing and my battery is 1 week old, the resistance on trident is .9-1 ohm and aga t2 is 1-1.1 ohm thanks for replying btw[emoji6]

You're welcome asvaldr :)

My Nemesis makes around 3.8V with a charged VTC4 and a 0.5 ohm atty. With a 1 ohm atty yours should be higher than that. I got around 1V drop under load with 1 1/2 year old, worn out 18650s before I replaced them.

Something is wrong. I think your voltmeter is good because it reads correct (or very close to that) with the battery only. It's not the attys because the same thing is happening with all of them.

That leaves the mod and the battery.

You said you cleaned the mod. Did you take the switch assembly completely apart and clean all the contact surfaces? If not, I would do that next.

If you did completely clean the mod, the only thing left is the battery. A real Sony VTC4 at one week old will not perform like this. Where did you buy it from? I've never heard of a counterfeit VTC4, but there is always a first time. Here's a link to How to Spot a Fake Sony VTC5 battery. Also, if you have another battery in good condition you can also try, if that does the same you will know it's the mod. At 0.9 ohms you're drawing around 5 amps, so almost any IMR or hybrid battery will be safe to try, even a 18500 or a 18350. Here's a chart that has battery amp ratings. Don't use a ICR battery, or one that you're not sure of the amp limit on.
 

asvaldr

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 8, 2014
233
147
indonesia
You're welcome asvaldr :)

My Nemesis makes around 3.8V with a charged VTC4 and a 0.5 ohm atty. With a 1 ohm atty yours should be higher than that. I got around 1V drop under load with 1 1/2 year old, worn out 18650s before I replaced them.

Something is wrong. I think your voltmeter is good because it reads correct (or very close to that) with the battery only. It's not the attys because the same thing is happening with all of them.

That leaves the mod and the battery.

You said you cleaned the mod. Did you take the switch assembly completely apart and clean all the contact surfaces? If not, I would do that next.

If you did completely clean the mod, the only thing left is the battery. A real Sony VTC4 at one week old will not perform like this. Where did you buy it from? I've never heard of a counterfeit VTC4, but there is always a first time. Here's a link to How to Spot a Fake Sony VTC5 battery. Also, if you have another battery in good condition you can also try, if that does the same you will know it's the mod. At 0.9 ohms you're drawing around 5 amps, so almost any IMR or hybrid battery will be safe to try, even a 18500 or a 18350. Here's a chart that has battery amp ratings. Don't use a ICR battery, or one that you're not sure of the amp limit on.
To be honest i dont know is it sony vtc 4 i thought it was vtc4 because of the spec
eza2epem.jpg
 

Ryedan

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 31, 2012
12,869
19,652
Ontario, Canada
To be honest i dont know is it sony vtc 4 i thought it was vtc4 because of the spec

Yes, they are VTC4. Who did you buy them from? I'm asking because if the supplier is known to be good that pretty much assures the batteries are legitimate Sonys.

BTW, you didn't say if you took the switch apart to clean :)
 

asvaldr

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 8, 2014
233
147
indonesia
There might be a chance that the tube was coated by the manufacturer during production and some of the lacquer got on the contact pins and or threads.

Try to use some acetone (nail polish remover) and thoroughly clean the threads, pins, top cap and switch.
Thanks for the advice i'll try it later when i have time and post the result
 

Ryedan

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 31, 2012
12,869
19,652
Ontario, Canada
I've taken it all apart and cleaned it then do the test once more with a 18650 vtc4 and 18350 purple efest and the same atty here are the results:

Unless all your batteries are bad, I think it's an issue with the mod. I've never tried acetone like Blackboar suggested, but it can't hurt :). I think there is resistance between at least one pair of contact surfaces that's causing this. If the acetone doesn't fix it, I would have a really good look at all surfaces under a magnifier and if I didn't find anything I would probably use 900 grit sandpaper on them all, carefully, looking/feeling for an area where the paper was not biting into metal.

Inside (female) threads are hard to do this way so I would probably use a thin, sharp tool of some kind to scrape those surfaces. I have a bench grinder so I can make tools like that. If you can't something like a sewing needle could work for you.

'All surfaces' include all that carry current from battery positive to negative.
 
Last edited:

SLIPPY_EEL

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Oct 11, 2013
3,127
3,908
Ω England Ω
Nothing to do with Faulty.
Nemesis Mods are usually excellent, but they still require and initial Strip down and full cleaning before use.
I strip and run mine through a 20 minute Ultrasonic cleaning cycle
Wipe everything down good once clean

Also clean all your 510 device threadings

Sorry, can i just ask, can all parts of a tube mech be put into an ultrasonic cleaner?
 

UncleChuck

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 20, 2011
1,581
1,812
38
Portland
Maybe I'm missing something, but this definitely seems to be a battery issue.

He shows both his questionable 18650 AND an 18350 in the last pics he posted. The 18650 started with a higher voltage than the 18350, and still the voltage drop was higher with the 18650. If it was an issue with the mod, the meter, or anything OTHER than the battery, why would the 18350 be outperforming the 18650? Something that absolutely should not be happening, unless the 18650 is damaged/fake/bad/etc, which appears to be the case.

No idea if it's a fake battery, maybe just a lemon.
 

roosterado

Super Member
ECF Veteran
May 9, 2014
714
584
willmar MN
Did you do the one thing most often missed?

Clean the threading on the Meter? :D

I'd leave an Atty attached after reading
Unscrew the meter
Swap the battery to another mod
attach the meter
take a comparative reading

Just saying......might not be the Mod:)
I just did this with a new inline meter I got. AR Clone .5 volt drop- K100 1 volt drop. Will monkey around with the K100 but mainly just use it to pulse coils. I think the AR Clone could use a better spring and the button where the spring sits its thin black not paint? Tried Acetone already? Update On the AR Clone button I used fine sand paper to clean the black coating off the fire button where it makes contart with the spring-then I buffed it with a brass wire brush in my drill- then cleaned with acetone. Also cleaned mod threads with acetone. On a 2ohm coil .15 volt drop. on a .8 ohm coil .30 voltage drop.
 
Last edited:

csardaz

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
May 29, 2014
169
147
Pennsylvania
A bad connection would add resistance to the circuit whether its varnish, spring, switch etc. Added resistance would reduce the current flow and hence the power draw. That should result in less voltage droop, not more.

Extra voltage drop means there is less resistance - so something shorting that shouldn't - an insulator missing? Or it means a bad battery - or a miss-labeled battery like a battery made for 2amps being asked to produce 20amps.
 

UncleChuck

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 20, 2011
1,581
1,812
38
Portland
A bad connection would add resistance to the circuit whether its varnish, spring, switch etc. Added resistance would reduce the current flow and hence the power draw. That should result in less voltage droop, not more.

Extra voltage drop means there is less resistance - so something shorting that shouldn't - an insulator missing? Or it means a bad battery - or a miss-labeled battery like a battery made for 2amps being asked to produce 20amps.

A bad connection in the mod will still show a higher voltage drop on an inline meter because the resistance in the mod itself is reducing the voltage before it even reaches the atty or meter.

Now if there was a short in the atty that would definitely produce a larger voltage drop as the load on the battery would go up dramatically, but the comparison test between the 18650 and the 18350 shows (at least to me) this has to be a bad battery issue. The 18350 had less voltage drop than the 18650, if the mod or atty was the issue then the 18350 would be dropping a lot more like the 18650.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread