intermediate vaper need advices
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My suggestion, if you want a device capable of performing well with an RBA, would be a Provari, Itaste SVD, or Zmax or anything else of similar design. These are 22mm wide devices and that's about the standard width of your average RBA.
Provari is what I have and its a solid mod. Expensive, loved and hated by the community, but there's no arguing it's reputation and quality. Just my opinion
For the topper/tank, it depends what kind of RBA your going for. I don't have much experience with drippers, but my buddy has the Castle and its a pretty nice looking setup.
For Genesis style atomizers, I prefer the RSST, specifically the new Pyrex RSST. I have both and the Pyrex RSST is super nice if you can get your hands on it and is a good price.
For Kayfun style rebuildables, Its really either genuine Kayfun (lite, lite+, 3.1), The Russian 91%, or knock offs. I can't recall the knock off brands off the top of my head, but there's some decent knock offs out there. I myself have the Russian 91%, and its a good vape. I've had trouble getting a solid build that didn't leak or get dry hits, but I recently did a SS mesh/cotton hybrid build that's working great.
The aspire nautilus is another nice one, but not necessarily classified as a rebuildable. My buddy also has one of those and its a rich vape with high capacity.
Surprised nobody else has replied to your post
Provari is what I have and its a solid mod. Expensive, loved and hated by the community, but there's no arguing it's reputation and quality. Just my opinion
For the topper/tank, it depends what kind of RBA your going for. I don't have much experience with drippers, but my buddy has the Castle and its a pretty nice looking setup.
For Genesis style atomizers, I prefer the RSST, specifically the new Pyrex RSST. I have both and the Pyrex RSST is super nice if you can get your hands on it and is a good price.
For Kayfun style rebuildables, Its really either genuine Kayfun (lite, lite+, 3.1), The Russian 91%, or knock offs. I can't recall the knock off brands off the top of my head, but there's some decent knock offs out there. I myself have the Russian 91%, and its a good vape. I've had trouble getting a solid build that didn't leak or get dry hits, but I recently did a SS mesh/cotton hybrid build that's working great.
The aspire nautilus is another nice one, but not necessarily classified as a rebuildable. My buddy also has one of those and its a rich vape with high capacity.
Surprised nobody else has replied to your post
I would recommend the Kayfun or Russian 91. I've had a great experience with a simple micro coil and cotton wick.
A DNA 30 device, like Hanna mods V3 would be nice if you can get it. If not, I like the iTaste MVP or Provari.
I think the topper is the most important, honestly. I would spend the money there then choose a device that fits your style and budget.
A DNA 30 device, like Hanna mods V3 would be nice if you can get it. If not, I like the iTaste MVP or Provari.
I think the topper is the most important, honestly. I would spend the money there then choose a device that fits your style and budget.
A lot depends on you and where you want to take your vape. Are you looking to invest in some high quality gear that will provide years of vape and begin your collection, or do you want just the next step up?
Since you are interested in rba's, I assume you are looking to increase your quality of vape. If looking into regulated device would recommend something that puts out at least 15 watts, if so inclined they now have regulated mods that put out 30, 70, and up to 100 watts of power.
The best thing to do is search out and compare what is possible with vape, find the item that best suits you needs and goals. There are many fine ways to get there. Good rba's to look at would be the Russian, Kayfun, Flash-e-vapor V2, and Taifun GT. Also many different style available.
See what most interests you, and follow your path.
Vape long and Prosper!!
Since you are interested in rba's, I assume you are looking to increase your quality of vape. If looking into regulated device would recommend something that puts out at least 15 watts, if so inclined they now have regulated mods that put out 30, 70, and up to 100 watts of power.
The best thing to do is search out and compare what is possible with vape, find the item that best suits you needs and goals. There are many fine ways to get there. Good rba's to look at would be the Russian, Kayfun, Flash-e-vapor V2, and Taifun GT. Also many different style available.
See what most interests you, and follow your path.
Vape long and Prosper!!
Good advice from the members so far. If your looking for a dripper, the Igo-W series is pretty solid and inexpensive for a first dripper, and now the the new halo top caps from Capitall make it perform like a champ but the cap costs more than the atty 
Patriot is another nice dripper if you have a little more to spend and even people with many high end drippers like the zenith or the quasar still love the patriot.
If you are thinking of cloudchasing and subohming at one point your going to need a mechanical mod with an appropriate battery, but i would not recommend subohming without proper battery safety knowledge.
As far as regulated mods go I personally had a Vamo which worked for me and I have no complaints, goes up to 15W and is variable voltage and watts. Many love the provari here but I have never owned one so I will not comment on that apart from that it is Variable voltage and not variable wattage. The DNA chips are pretty solid as well if you want to go for a 30W vape.
It all depends on where you want to go with vaping.
Patriot is another nice dripper if you have a little more to spend and even people with many high end drippers like the zenith or the quasar still love the patriot.If you are thinking of cloudchasing and subohming at one point your going to need a mechanical mod with an appropriate battery, but i would not recommend subohming without proper battery safety knowledge.
As far as regulated mods go I personally had a Vamo which worked for me and I have no complaints, goes up to 15W and is variable voltage and watts. Many love the provari here but I have never owned one so I will not comment on that apart from that it is Variable voltage and not variable wattage. The DNA chips are pretty solid as well if you want to go for a 30W vape.
It all depends on where you want to go with vaping.
I'll say this amongst all the other good advice here.. If you are infact looking into the RDA world.. I love my Trident clone and it was like 30 bucks I think..Maybe 20. I also have a Patriot and LOVE it. It sits very nicely on my AR mod.
I'd have to agree on the topper being the most important. I have a kebo russian 91% and three hcigar kayfun 3.1 clones and they all put out better vapor and flavor than the aspire nautilus which is the best clearo I have.
If your moving up to a vv/vw mod there is no harm in trying something like the vamo v5. The trouble with the inexpensive mods are that they all have their flaws....I have a vamo v5, smok Sid, innokin svd, all quirky but the vamo is the most reliable out of the three in my experience. I broke down and got a spire from beyond vape... Way better than the entry level apv's.
But it wouldn't matter which one I'm using if I don't have a good setup on top. Good luck and enjoy the journey.
If your moving up to a vv/vw mod there is no harm in trying something like the vamo v5. The trouble with the inexpensive mods are that they all have their flaws....I have a vamo v5, smok Sid, innokin svd, all quirky but the vamo is the most reliable out of the three in my experience. I broke down and got a spire from beyond vape... Way better than the entry level apv's.
But it wouldn't matter which one I'm using if I don't have a good setup on top. Good luck and enjoy the journey.
I'd have to agree on the topper being the most important. I have a kebo russian 91% and three hcigar kayfun 3.1 clones and they all put out better vapor and flavor than the aspire nautilus which is the best clearo I have.
If your moving up to a vv/vw mod there is no harm in trying something like the vamo v5. The trouble with the inexpensive mods are that they all have their flaws....I have a vamo v5, smok Sid, innokin svd, all quirky but the vamo is the most reliable out of the three in my experience. I broke down and got a spire from beyond vape... Way better than the entry level apv's.
But it wouldn't matter which one I'm using if I don't have a good setup on top. Good luck and enjoy the journey.
My SID is now a paperweight and just holds my KFL clone so its upright. the MVP2 trumped it big time.
yeah the guy at the store talked about the svd and a kayfun. i think that the svd is just enormous but since im not used to the rebuildable coil world i tought it would be nice to have a ohm check on my mod ?
but he also told me that its not that accurate so im a bit confused
but he also told me that its not that accurate so im a bit confused
The ohm checkers built into the mods are not as accurate as a stand alone ohm checker would be. Unless your sub ohming then the ohm checker in the mod would suffice. Knowing your resistance is more for safety and fine tuning your vaping experience but on a VV/VW thats 30W or lower, +or- .1ohm wont make too much of a difference.
I had never built a coil or anything before and bought a Kayfun 3.1. I am not saying it was easy but it wasn't as bad as I thought and it really does perform.
I have a Provari personally because of the safety features, the quality and the warranty but side by side with my iTaste 3.0 is a huge difference in vape. It costs more money but it really was worth it to me. I have seen more iTaste MVP praises than I can count for the money and it is a good starting point.
Going into mech mods and sub ohming moves into more battery knowledge and safety and there are things that can go wrong if you don't take the time to read and really know what you are doing. On the other hand, building a coil that won't fire on a regulated device can be a PITA.
I have an IGO-W too and if I could have, I would have bought that first to figure out the amount of cotton and wick and coil builds and then moved to the Kayfun but I am not mechanically inclined and I got it on both with a little help from the ECF.
I have a Provari personally because of the safety features, the quality and the warranty but side by side with my iTaste 3.0 is a huge difference in vape. It costs more money but it really was worth it to me. I have seen more iTaste MVP praises than I can count for the money and it is a good starting point.
Going into mech mods and sub ohming moves into more battery knowledge and safety and there are things that can go wrong if you don't take the time to read and really know what you are doing. On the other hand, building a coil that won't fire on a regulated device can be a PITA.
I have an IGO-W too and if I could have, I would have bought that first to figure out the amount of cotton and wick and coil builds and then moved to the Kayfun but I am not mechanically inclined and I got it on both with a little help from the ECF.
Before you jump in to the deep end, allow me to shed some light on a couple of things here.
First, the mod. ------- There are many types and they come at many prices, but what exactly are they? Well, at the most basic level, a mod is nothing more than a flashlight. It's a battery in a tube with a threaded top so you can screw in a coil. They work exactly like flashlights in many ways.
Now, in regards to ecigs, there are two basic types of mods. You've got your Variable Voltage/Variable Wattage mods and Mechanical Mods.
Again, these are basically the same thing. The only difference between them is the Variable mods have an electronics pack inside that allows you to make changes to the power output and to provide certain safety features. Mechanical mods on the other hand are literally like standard flashlights with no electronics inside and a simple mechanical button to make it fire. Because a mech mod has no electronics or safety devices built in they are capable of delivering a LOT more power to the coil than a VV/VW mod. Also, since the mech mod has no electronics or safety devices it's a LOT easier to damage your batteries or worse.....
So, which is right for you? That's a lot of personal preference.
Personally I find the Variable Voltage/Variable Wattage mods too "fiddly". To really get any benefit from these mods you have to adjust the voltage, and adjust the voltage frequently. If you're the type of person who wants to tweak your voltage settings to bring out certain aspects of your juices, and use different settings for different juices than a VV/VW mod is just what you need.
If you're the kind of person who would prefer to have a single setting and then just leave it alone and vape then I would not suggest a VV/VW mod. It's a waste of money for that type of use. It's too limiting. For the same money as that SVD you can get a high quality mech mod and a Kick unit and do virtually everything the SVD can do and several things it cannot do. You'll lose the ability to adjust voltage, and you won't have an inaccurate ohm reader built in, but you can subohm and vape at wattages that the SVD simply cannot touch.
Now, I mentioned the Kick module, so obviously a bit of explanation is in order about that. A Kick is a little round electronic device that fits inside the mechanical mod between the positive battery terminal and the top contact pin. There is a small dial which allows you to adjust the wattage setting. You decide what wattage you like, set the Kick, and that's all. You can change coils and toppers all you want and the Kick will provide the same wattage to the coil every time. It also acts as a safety device so if there is a problem it will simply not fire rather than allow the battery to be damaged.
If you reach the point where you want to subohm or pull wattage and amp draws that exceed the limits of the Kick, you can simply take it out in a few seconds and then you're free to do what you want.
There is often a HUGE difference between the size of a VV/VW mod and a mechanical mod. Those electronics tend to make the VV/VW mods much larger which leads to some misunderstanding. We're often led to believe that bigger is better, but in mods the bigger is the lower powered and more limited VV/VW mods while the more powerful and more versatile mech mods are significantly smaller.
You wouldn't think it, but the little bitty mech mod on the left can deliver more power than that huge SVD on the right...
If you are EVER going to consider subohming then a VV/VW mod is a waste of money. Quite simply, they cannot do it. (A few can, but those very few come with an astronomical price) You'll be far better off starting with a mech mod with a Kick and then remove the Kick when you're ready to start subohming.
Now, as far as RDA/RBAs go, I would highly recommend starting cheap and easy here.
Before running out and getting that Kayfun that everyone talks about, get something like the IGO-W or Trident clone to learn on. It's a $20-$30 investment that will allow you to easily practice your coil building with. You can try different coil types and different ohm coils and switch them out quickly and easily. Once you are comfortable building coils and have a good idea of what you like, THEN start looking at the more high dollar RBAs. By then you'll have a much better idea of what you are doing and also what you want from your next device.
Knowing what you want will keep you from wasting money on things that people say are great, but don't provide what you want. People will always recommend what works great for them, but that doesn't mean it's going to work great for you. You need to give some serious consideration to what exactly you want before spending more money, because I can assure you the mod path can get really expensive really fast if you're buying without knowing if your purchase will satisfy your desire.
First, the mod. ------- There are many types and they come at many prices, but what exactly are they? Well, at the most basic level, a mod is nothing more than a flashlight. It's a battery in a tube with a threaded top so you can screw in a coil. They work exactly like flashlights in many ways.
Now, in regards to ecigs, there are two basic types of mods. You've got your Variable Voltage/Variable Wattage mods and Mechanical Mods.
Again, these are basically the same thing. The only difference between them is the Variable mods have an electronics pack inside that allows you to make changes to the power output and to provide certain safety features. Mechanical mods on the other hand are literally like standard flashlights with no electronics inside and a simple mechanical button to make it fire. Because a mech mod has no electronics or safety devices built in they are capable of delivering a LOT more power to the coil than a VV/VW mod. Also, since the mech mod has no electronics or safety devices it's a LOT easier to damage your batteries or worse.....
So, which is right for you? That's a lot of personal preference.
Personally I find the Variable Voltage/Variable Wattage mods too "fiddly". To really get any benefit from these mods you have to adjust the voltage, and adjust the voltage frequently. If you're the type of person who wants to tweak your voltage settings to bring out certain aspects of your juices, and use different settings for different juices than a VV/VW mod is just what you need.
If you're the kind of person who would prefer to have a single setting and then just leave it alone and vape then I would not suggest a VV/VW mod. It's a waste of money for that type of use. It's too limiting. For the same money as that SVD you can get a high quality mech mod and a Kick unit and do virtually everything the SVD can do and several things it cannot do. You'll lose the ability to adjust voltage, and you won't have an inaccurate ohm reader built in, but you can subohm and vape at wattages that the SVD simply cannot touch.
Now, I mentioned the Kick module, so obviously a bit of explanation is in order about that. A Kick is a little round electronic device that fits inside the mechanical mod between the positive battery terminal and the top contact pin. There is a small dial which allows you to adjust the wattage setting. You decide what wattage you like, set the Kick, and that's all. You can change coils and toppers all you want and the Kick will provide the same wattage to the coil every time. It also acts as a safety device so if there is a problem it will simply not fire rather than allow the battery to be damaged.
If you reach the point where you want to subohm or pull wattage and amp draws that exceed the limits of the Kick, you can simply take it out in a few seconds and then you're free to do what you want.
There is often a HUGE difference between the size of a VV/VW mod and a mechanical mod. Those electronics tend to make the VV/VW mods much larger which leads to some misunderstanding. We're often led to believe that bigger is better, but in mods the bigger is the lower powered and more limited VV/VW mods while the more powerful and more versatile mech mods are significantly smaller.
You wouldn't think it, but the little bitty mech mod on the left can deliver more power than that huge SVD on the right...
If you are EVER going to consider subohming then a VV/VW mod is a waste of money. Quite simply, they cannot do it. (A few can, but those very few come with an astronomical price) You'll be far better off starting with a mech mod with a Kick and then remove the Kick when you're ready to start subohming.
Now, as far as RDA/RBAs go, I would highly recommend starting cheap and easy here.
Before running out and getting that Kayfun that everyone talks about, get something like the IGO-W or Trident clone to learn on. It's a $20-$30 investment that will allow you to easily practice your coil building with. You can try different coil types and different ohm coils and switch them out quickly and easily. Once you are comfortable building coils and have a good idea of what you like, THEN start looking at the more high dollar RBAs. By then you'll have a much better idea of what you are doing and also what you want from your next device.
Knowing what you want will keep you from wasting money on things that people say are great, but don't provide what you want. People will always recommend what works great for them, but that doesn't mean it's going to work great for you. You need to give some serious consideration to what exactly you want before spending more money, because I can assure you the mod path can get really expensive really fast if you're buying without knowing if your purchase will satisfy your desire.
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