Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)

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RiverNut

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I used copper. But the material that I used to make the prototype are not necessarily the same material I will use for production. For the prototype, I was more interested in testing the basic concepts and ergonomics of the mod, and the goal is to make the parts as quickly and cheaply as possible.

why don't you guys tell me what materials you prefer to see for the positive contact and the 510 center pin?
you should look at beryllium copper
 

supertrunker

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You want a ss 510, because it's strong and easy to clean and any corrosion will not contaminate the juice. At what point people that smoked for 30 years+ started worrying about a bit of copper poisoning them, i do not know, but it's a sign of the times.

Beryllium copper is used in oil and gas industries because it does not spark when tools made from it are dropped and the plan is it will not arc so much when used as a firing pin in a DC system, such as a mech.

I'm not convinced of the need to plate it. That just means it needs extra care to maintain it. In any case, any mechanical mod owner is going to have to get acquainted with Noalox, NoOxid, and DeOxit - depending on their tolerance for cleaning and budget.

T
 

Doffy

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The 510 connector is already made out of stainless steel.

I'm talking about the 510 center pin and the positive spring. There are tons of copper alloys out there, any particular preferences?

Notice how the positive spring is screwed down on the 510 center pin. Plenty of contact area there.

i don't know much, but beryllium copper seems to be standard for quality mods if that is what you mean by alloy?
 

Yiorgo

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I could be wrong but you know who used gold plating for the leaf spring and coiled spring over beryllium Cooper? I'm sure it had to do with oxidation and pitting. Don't know how expensive it would be to plate them..... I think the leaf spring would be the more important of the two.

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Doffy

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I am good with having my own plated, to keep the costs down on the mod and prevent greater delays. Plating is easy to do with items most people have in their garage.
Have you been taking anabolic smartoids again peng?

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penguiness

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Have you been taking anabolic smartoids again peng?

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Not at all. There are tons of tutorials online on how to do electroplating. It is a very simple process that I have done a few times.
 

paulw2014

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For the prototype, the springs are made by a prototyping company, to save time so I can test the concept. They are not the same people who will make the springs for the production version. I'm in touch with a few suppliers now so this is the time to tell me your preferences.

I think I can offer a plated spring if a lot of people wants it.

How about the negative battery spring? any preference on that?
 
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supertrunker

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i'd prefer no plating, my vaping style kills the plating on reos, just thick copper please

You still cannot file thick copper, if that is what you are thinking - it's far too soft. The original Reo pins were spring steel and those would be filed.

So the lack of plating will make no difference.

T
 

Doffy

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You still cannot file thick copper, if that is what you are thinking - it's far too soft. The original Reo pins were spring steel and those would be filed.

So the lack of plating will make no difference.

T

something with the current reo ones makes them dodgy. they just split. i had assumed the plating contributed
 
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supertrunker

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I'd be surprised. The new contacts are beryllium copper and gold plated. Even if the gold falls off - you'd be unwise to file them.

They may be more susceptible to button mashing, after all - spring steel v copper... copper is not really that bouncy/springy?

I mention it only because i am a serial wrecker of Reo firing buttons. Even the new ones, i have melted them all.

T
 
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