Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)
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Sony VTC 4s and 5s, Samsung 25Rs, and several different LGs. All are between 20-30A, but I only go to about 15-17 amps with my builds on mechs.
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Why do you want 30A continuous?
vaping isn't a continuous load. It's 10 maybe 15s pulses. With 3x that for recovery between pulses.
I'd have no worries about a 40A pulse on a true 20A rated battery. But that's over 150W and and a single cell won;t last long like that. I'd start looking for dual batteries in parallel around 100W.
My opinion, margin for error (the more the better) and allowing for the unplanned (pocket firing/stuck button/etc)
Agreed. Old-school engineering rules say you should design stuff twice as strong as it needs to be.
Still, at 0.5 to 0.7 ohms I've got plenty of margin with 20A batteries.
Then again, I may be one of the last squonkers around who builds that high.
Agreed. Old-school engineering rules say you should design stuff twice as strong as it needs to be.
Still, at 0.5 to 0.7 ohms I've got plenty of margin with 20A batteries.
Then again, I may be one of the last squonkers around who builds that high.
That's about the range I'll be building primarily because I'm using my home-extracted NETs and that's where they like to be.
That's why you use circuit protection devices (a fuse) and inherently safe chemistries (like IMR)
@B2L
@Rossum
My opinion...
Internal resistance.
I want the best possible performance out of everything from the contacts to the connectors to the battery.
When I build something, I want it to perform as close as possible to what it would in an ideal world.
I don't care if it's my 0.18 ohm builds or an ohm plus build for the wife.
I want my power raw and unfettered. The least voltage drop in the battery and voltage loss in the mod possible.
Tapatyped
Minimizing losses in the mod -- absolutely. There are no downsides to that. But the battery is a trade-off. A 2500 or 3000 mAh 20A battery should provide considerably longer run time on a 1 ohm build than a 1500 mAh 30A battery.
Currently
All we can do is get the best performance available without sacrificing too much until capacity catches up on better performing cells.
Tapatyped
It is a trade off but nothing a spare battery or two won't remedy.
Heck, if I'm going to carry a spare battery or two, I might as well carry a spare mod instead (and I actually do any time I go someplace from which it would be inconvenient to return to base should something fail).
What you've seen me carry is pretty close to what I walk out of the house with on an average day.
I take 3 mods with me to work on a daily basis. One regulated, an RX200 with a Boreas tank, and 2 CC's, atties built to .28-.35. My RX is using 3 HG2's, and 25r's in both CC's. I only have to replace batteries once every 24 hours.
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I'm partial to HG2's and HE2's. I've retired all my baby blue Sammys. I do still run a handful of VTC5's though. Of course, battery life during the day isn't a concern. This is a typical load out for work:
me, too mostly. Ok, maybe 0.35 to 0.55, but no lower and usually aiming in the middle of that.
There are probably several of us here - because we're on a thread about a 1-battery mech...
There are probably several of us here - because we're on a thread about a 1-battery mech...
Agreed. Old-school engineering rules say you should design stuff twice as strong as it needs to be.
Still, at 0.5 to 0.7 ohms I've got plenty of margin with 20A batteries.
Then again, I may be one of the last squonkers around who builds that high.
I carry three with me to work. A BMI, a RX200 and the SwampPiano bottom feed for when I'm driving. VTC4s, HG2s.
I used to carry a backup, and a backup backup.
Now, I've been on the road 8 days with a Reo Grand (and a little emergency rebuild kit).
For a day "in the field" but then back home, I often carry 1 mod, fresh and full, and that's it.
I like it a LOT better that way. I still collect atties, and there's other mods eagerly waiting at home, but I FAR prefer not carrying more stuff.
Now, I've been on the road 8 days with a Reo Grand (and a little emergency rebuild kit).
For a day "in the field" but then back home, I often carry 1 mod, fresh and full, and that's it.
I like it a LOT better that way. I still collect atties, and there's other mods eagerly waiting at home, but I FAR prefer not carrying more stuff.
No, that's why I use high amperage batteries
Well, to each their own I guess.
But I'd rather a fuse blow after 20-30 seconds than the mod keep firing and rely on the battery being able to handle high current loads.
I'd have to look at the specs. I don't know that a 30A battery is significantly different from 20A in that regard.
Your are of course free to use what you like.
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