IPV D2 compatible with Isub G Tank?
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Completely compatible.
I've several of the PC (plastic) tank iSubs and usually have one running (right now in fact).
An upside is the addition of factory coils besides the original 0.5 ohm.
Haven't tried the 2.0, but I've had the 0.2 up to 50 watts (surprised me actually, I wouldn't go higher though).
The downside is there's no rebuildable deck for the iSubs or the new APEX tank (yet?). Or TC coils.
So while it's possible to recoil an iSub head, it's a tad finicky. So, no TC wire heads otherwise (Ni & Ti).
I really like my iSubs (and my D2) but if TC or a RBA deck are important right away, perhaps another tank to start or in addition.
If you use or plan to use higher ohm non-TC coils, say over 1.5 ish, and prefer low watts, there is an issue with the D2. It lacks the circuitry to "step down" the voltage below the battery voltage while in Power Mode (watts).
The workaround is simple though... use the non-TC coil in Ni (nickel) mode, set the temp to max and treat "Joules" as "Watts". They're the same in this application. Easy as cake... piece o' pie.
I've several of the PC (plastic) tank iSubs and usually have one running (right now in fact).
An upside is the addition of factory coils besides the original 0.5 ohm.
Haven't tried the 2.0, but I've had the 0.2 up to 50 watts (surprised me actually, I wouldn't go higher though).
The downside is there's no rebuildable deck for the iSubs or the new APEX tank (yet?). Or TC coils.
So while it's possible to recoil an iSub head, it's a tad finicky. So, no TC wire heads otherwise (Ni & Ti).
I really like my iSubs (and my D2) but if TC or a RBA deck are important right away, perhaps another tank to start or in addition.
If you use or plan to use higher ohm non-TC coils, say over 1.5 ish, and prefer low watts, there is an issue with the D2. It lacks the circuitry to "step down" the voltage below the battery voltage while in Power Mode (watts).
The workaround is simple though... use the non-TC coil in Ni (nickel) mode, set the temp to max and treat "Joules" as "Watts". They're the same in this application. Easy as cake... piece o' pie.
Wow thanks for all the info. I'm basically a noob again. I'm a bit confused what tank would be best for me. I'm looking for huge clouds, great flavor, minimal to no leaking and preferably glass but there's so many options to search through I'm frankly overwhelmed.
General suggestions...
Too many RDAs to go into, and 6 or 8 top tanks. You need to read... a lot.
But while you do your research... save money with an iStick 100 watt (and good batteries, 25R, LG HE4 etc.), and maybe either a Uwell Crown or SMOK TFV4 sub-ohm tank. The Crown will run better at slightly lower wattage (50-60 vs. 60-90), and the factory coil heads for the TVF4 are stupid expensive ($6 each vs. $3), but the SMOK is possibly the most insane at the moment (not better, just crazier).
The D2, at 75w max, would be stretched firing that all day. Chew through batteries too.
Lots of other combinations. Maybe someone will post some other "flavor of the moment" hot product.
Too many RDAs to go into, and 6 or 8 top tanks. You need to read... a lot.
But while you do your research... save money with an iStick 100 watt (and good batteries, 25R, LG HE4 etc.), and maybe either a Uwell Crown or SMOK TFV4 sub-ohm tank. The Crown will run better at slightly lower wattage (50-60 vs. 60-90), and the factory coil heads for the TVF4 are stupid expensive ($6 each vs. $3), but the SMOK is possibly the most insane at the moment (not better, just crazier).
The D2, at 75w max, would be stretched firing that all day. Chew through batteries too.
Lots of other combinations. Maybe someone will post some other "flavor of the moment" hot product.
Ok I have the Istick 100 and a Uwell Crown tank in my watch list the combo sounds like a great option. I already have 4 efest 18650 batteries from my previous mod that died. I'm going to keep researching and will hopefully be purchasing by the end of the month. Thanks for your help!!!
What are the exact details of the Efests (model #, mAh capacity, certainly inflated Amp rating)?
One advantage of the i100, as a dual cell limited to 100 watts, the most you can possibly ever draw from the batteries is around 17 Amps. But batteries lose that amp draw capacity as they age (recharge cycles), so caution and awareness are always important.
[HASHTAG]#NoKaboom[/HASHTAG]
One advantage of the i100, as a dual cell limited to 100 watts, the most you can possibly ever draw from the batteries is around 17 Amps. But batteries lose that amp draw capacity as they age (recharge cycles), so caution and awareness are always important.
[HASHTAG]#NoKaboom[/HASHTAG]
Hmm doesn't appear to have temperature control. Not exactly sure I need it though I do hate dry and or burned hits and thats supposed to help...
Ok I have the Istick 100 and a Uwell Crown tank in my watch list the combo sounds like a great option...
Ha... I have two tank/mod pairs going right now and one of them happens to be exactly that.
As advertised... I have an iSub going on a VTC as well.
It can, when done right. I figured the lack would be worth it as you figure which way to jump next.
Cheaper too.
Seems an odd mAh but I'm no expert. Any Amp Rating on it (it'll be a lie just because... Efest, but I'm curious).
Thinking these batteries
http://m.ebay.com/itm/LG-HE4-18650-...y-/231725591741?nav=SEARCH&varId=530939834385
35amp max
http://m.ebay.com/itm/LG-HE4-18650-...y-/231725591741?nav=SEARCH&varId=530939834385
35amp max
HE4s, great cell... I have 9 of them. Perfect choice or the higher mAh HG2.
They're 20A cells, the 35 is a speculative Pulse Rating. I was typing, so I'll finish...
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Short answer...
You stick with a known good quantity, such as...
2500 mAh Samsung 25R 20A verified CDR (Continuous Discharge Rate)
2500 mAh LG HE4 20A CDR (the previous HE2 is nearly identical)
3000 mAh LG HG2 20A CDR (More mAh, possibly comparable performance to the HE4)
The 2500/20A is the yardstick. And the 25R is the Gold Standard.
You can achieve higher Amp ratings, but at the expense of mAh capacity. It's a give and take, no getting around that. There are two cells with true 30A CDRs, but mAh is down around 1500-1800.
And only Samsung (AFAIK) releases honest Pulse Ratings. And even then, there's no "standard" to use as a model for vaping.
There are NO 18650 batteries today with a CDR higher than 30. PERIOD.
Tomorrow? Maybe. Needs new or improved chemistry. It's that simple.
Sorry... that's the "short" answer.
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