IPV Mini 30W
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I was in your exact spot half a month ago and decided to go with the Sigelei. Still in the mail though so i can't comment, but i can pretty much sum everything i've read here:
1.) They are the same chip and the same device.
2.) Ipv Mini has a history of paint peeling
3.) Sigelei comes with a silicone shirt
4.) Ipv mini is more "ergonomic" while sig is just a.. well a box.
5.) Only point 1 is really important. Take the mod you think looks and feels better for you.
Oh and i should add, i greatly prefer the battery door of the Sig
1.) They are the same chip and the same device.
2.) Ipv Mini has a history of paint peeling
3.) Sigelei comes with a silicone shirt
4.) Ipv mini is more "ergonomic" while sig is just a.. well a box.
5.) Only point 1 is really important. Take the mod you think looks and feels better for you.
Oh and i should add, i greatly prefer the battery door of the Sig
The Sig doesnt have the mobile charging feature, which is probably a good thing..
I own the IPV Mini 30W and it did not come with the mobile charger. I have had it for 6 months and the finish is coming off where I hold it. I also wish it had more watts but I am looking to upgrade so that does not matter. I have used the Nautilus Mini, KFL+, Lemo Drop, Lemo 2, and a Derringer dripper on top along with an Atlantis tank but I didn't like that because I could not get a warm vape off the tank. But it is a good APV and it fits really well in your hand.
I've had the IPV Mini 30w myself for over 6 months and it's a tough little mod, I have the silver version so no finish problems. The mobile charging feature is worthless and takes all the buttons too activate, so dont let that be a worry. You will most likely never activate it, even by accident. But besides that it's been stellar, the memory function is nice, the threads are still good as new and I've charged it everyday with the usb port without any issues. I would suggest the IPV. You can get silicone cases for it as well here IPV Mini Silicone Case They work wonders for gripping the mod as some of the finishes can be slippery.
I own both the ipv mini and the ipv mini 2 and love them both. I have heard of the charger and the issue with the way you engage the charge port on the ipv mini as it uses the 510 connection to charge mobile devices. I myself have never had an issue with it autofiring or it accidentally being triggered to come on. The ipv mini 2 does not have that feature. The paint on the ipv mini is crap so if you do purchase one make sure you get a wrap for it immediately. The ipv mini2 coating seems to be more durable but I didn't take a chance and bought a wrap right away. With that being said though...would I buy another given the need or opportunity? You damn skippy I would. Awesome mods, very well built, nice wieght and feels comfortable in your hand, good battery life and connections albeit the battery compartment cover you will want to be careful with not to cross thread them when replacing the battery. Hope this helps and good luck!
I really appreciate the replies. I like the looks and feel of the IPV better so going to go with it probably in silver and pick up a sub tank to play around with while I'm at it. You all are right it does take work to get it into mobile mode, not going to worry about it. 30 watts is enough for me, run a nautilus 99% of the time.
Not once have I been careless enough to trigger the mobile feature<Accidentally> on either of my IPV minis.
To Deliberately turn it on with a Tank attached - As the Reviewer did, and started all this B.S. Panic - is plain silly and careless.
Why would anyone deliberately put 5v constant to a Tank? Only seems to happen with Coil Head types anyway, never decent built sub ohm tanks.
* Note: The same 2 button press that turns Mobile charging on also turns it off
To Deliberately turn it on with a Tank attached - As the Reviewer did, and started all this B.S. Panic - is plain silly and careless.
Why would anyone deliberately put 5v constant to a Tank? Only seems to happen with Coil Head types anyway, never decent built sub ohm tanks.
* Note: The same 2 button press that turns Mobile charging on also turns it off
I have both. the IPV is a tough little mod. the finish, however... ugh. I never had a single problem with it working, but I just got tired of my hands smelling like metal. I did put a wrap on it, but it doesn't cover all the surfaces. Even the finish on the buttons came off. I actually got the Sigelei mini to take its place. It doesn't fit in the hand quite as well, but otherwise it works just as well. The only thing I've noticed so far is that the threads seem a little bit off. I have one or two tanks that feel like they are trying to cross-thread when you start to put them on. I've never pushed them past whatever is causing it. I just grab another tank and put that on, or use the problem tank on my iStick.
Lol, yeah it's great other than the finish. Mine is currently hanging up in my garage while the appliance epoxy spray paint I shot it with cures. Had it polished up nicely, unfortunately it would tarnish really horribly within hours of polishing it up. Wish they had just anodized the things, rather than paint them.
I've had my IPV mini for around 8 months and the only (small) problem I had with it was that the "champagne" finish started showing some wear. I bought a skin for it - end of problem! I rarely use my IPV with my sub-ohm RDA's, but when I do, it works just fine. The only thing I can't figure out is how it seems to defy ohm's law lol...it does a great job of running a .5 coil at around 20-22 watts!
If your running it in DC-DC mode, it lets you adjust the display down, but actually doesn't buck the voltage down any. So let's say you have it set for 20 watts with a .5 ohm coil, and your battery is 3.7 volts and fully charged. You should be actually running at 27.4 watts. You can increase the watts past that, but it really isn't going to fire below that, despite what it's telling you. Basically, this device seems to use PWM to "buck" the power, but uses DC-DC to boost. All that switching it over to DC-DC mode seems to do, is kill the PWM or in practical terms, your ability to buck the power lower than the point that your voltage and atty will just give you. If you set it and leave it in PWM, it will "buck" using PWM until you set the wattage to a level that is higher than what the combo of your batteries volts and your Atties ohms are going to give you, at which point it will automatically switch to DC-DC boost. That's what the pbusardo review seemed to indicate anyways....
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