iPV Mini?
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From briefly reading the last couple pages of this thread (late to the party) it doesn't sound like our ipv mini is any more screwed up than anybody else's. Does anybody have an IPV Mini that reads the resistance correctly? If so I guess ours is messed up, but it sounds like they all are.
I don't think my expectations were too high, I bought a 30w device, I expect it to output 30w. It doesn't, hence my disappointment.
I'll go vote for Phil to review it, would be interested in seeing an actual review with data for it.
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Mine is right on...L0814..Had mine for 3 plus weeks with no issues using the original 1 ohm coil in my Lemo
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Nope, he didn't get a totally "screwed up unit", I'm reading quite a few posts regarding the same issue, myself included. Someone posted a pic of the device with the Atlantis on Facebook and you could clearly see it registered the coil at .4. This is an issue when vaping at 30W on a factory made coil, eg Atlantis. My IPV Mini reads the atlantis @ .4 and pushes 3.7V @ 30W. The IPV 2S reads the coil at .5 ohm and pushes 4.2V @ 30 W. That's a pretty significant difference and a reduction in vape quality. I'm not screaming that it's a crap device, I really like all aspects of it except for the ohm reading. I can see why people are disappointed and I personally can't recommend this particular device. Even @ $50 I would expect that it register ohm readings correctly.
Regarding the IPV Mini V2, that's just how P4U rolls, this industry is extremely competitive as its booming. I believe they released the V2 to compete with the YiHi SX Mini and honestly, the V2 may be my next mod because it has the same chip as the IPV 2S.
That's a 0.80 ohm atomizer. IPVmini reads it accurately and applies 4.8-5.0 V accordingly.
That's a 0.80 ohm atomizer. IPVmini reads it accurately and applies 4.8-5.0 V accordingly.
Sounds like you got a good one then. I haven't had one atty register correctly, coils I've wrapped, and stock coils from several clearos.
Hmm, I'm not sure what to think now. If I should bother contacting the vendor, or asmodus about getting it repaired or replaced. I'm guessing they would just tell me the device is fine, and within the acceptable tolerance for ohm reading (to me its not acceptable at all).
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That's exactly what Asmodus told me. Both my original and replacement IPV Minis register the Atlantis coils at .4 so I don't know how much good a replacement would be.
Well, I'm on my main IPV mini right now.
My Omega RDA .54ohm build is reading .5 at 30w 4.1v
So yea, Taking into consideration the (2)place variance and chip efficiency, I'd say this one is Damn close.
Now, I have said it several times. IF your unit is reading more than .1 off..........................RETURN IT.
If you can live with .1 then anything above .6 should deliver the full 30w
If you want a mod to deliver 30w all day long, the logical choice would be a 50w mod.
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Now, I have clearly seen variances from RTA to RTA and RDA to RDA.
Perhaps there is a contact issue or something going on.<not logical and should read higher, not lower>
Perhaps the unit is slowly seasoning and becoming more accurate.
I DON"T KNOW
I just know tanks are starting to show proper ohms more regularly than when new.
My Omega RDA .54ohm build is reading .5 at 30w 4.1v
So yea, Taking into consideration the (2)place variance and chip efficiency, I'd say this one is Damn close.
Now, I have said it several times. IF your unit is reading more than .1 off..........................RETURN IT.
If you can live with .1 then anything above .6 should deliver the full 30w
If you want a mod to deliver 30w all day long, the logical choice would be a 50w mod.
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Now, I have clearly seen variances from RTA to RTA and RDA to RDA.
Perhaps there is a contact issue or something going on.<not logical and should read higher, not lower>
Perhaps the unit is slowly seasoning and becoming more accurate.
I DON"T KNOW
I just know tanks are starting to show proper ohms more regularly than when new.
It doesn't always read atties "correctly", but nary a device ever really does, and as long as I keep all the pertinent contacts clean, the better odds I am giving the IPVmini of reading it well. Plus, I tend to think that our devices are coded to round their ohm readings down to the nearest 1/10th for safety. And then there's the universal truth about maximum output power of a regulated device -- It can only give up its maxWatts within a certain range of applied atomizer resistances and only down to a specified battery input voltage; both of these in order to maintain safe amperages throughout the device and battery.
Gotcha, thanks, I figured that is what they would say. I won't waste my time/money sending it in.
I'd be perfectly happy with the device if mine were that accurate. Hell I'd be happy if the ohms were incorrect but read higher.
I specifically got this unit for my wife to use with the Atlantis, so when it reads the .55 ohm (according to cheap ohm reader and ipv3) coil as .4, and only outputs 3.8v, maybe you can understand my disappointment. If it read them at .6 and fired 4.2v I would have no issues with the device.
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I believe folks understand their options and yes you've mentioned them a few times. We're free to discuss this device at will, pros and cons. It's also good for folks to understand its potential limitations.
I don't disagree at all and this unit, like most new release tech, has its issues.
Mine has read low and does read accurate at times.
The Paint is weak, typical of China paint jobs.
Construction isn't bad, but soldering could be much better.
Battery cap and insert is a concern. Already seen a few stripped. <wonder who will carry parts?>
Now one thing to consider is the single digit readings. Ohms and Volts
.5ohm coil reading .4ohm @ 3.8v would mechanically be 36.10 watts
.5ohm reading .5ohm @ 3.8v would be 28.88 watts
If the unit is actually calculating 30 watts for a .4ohm reading then the screen should display roughly 3.50 volts.
We still have some information to decipher.
Is the unit rounding down?
If so, at what point? Is .49 = .4 ? (it should Be .5)
Is 3.8v actual or is it 3.81 or 3.88?
Is the effected unit really as far off as one would think? Talking about the ones reading (-.1ohm from correct)
We already know what I think of units well off the mark.(return)
I'm not really defending the IPV mini per say. I have several regulated mods and another on the way. Already shopping for something with a little more power also.
I'm just trying to figure out why some think .1ohm is a little off and some consider it a total catastrophic. I am starting to understand, some are builders - able to adjust to a given situation - while others are using predefined Coil designs and limited to supply.
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Reminds me of Honda(cars) first coming to America
Introduced a car that got almost 60MPG at 60MPH.................................... Blew up at 65MPH
Was it really the cars fault we drove Fast?
Look at Honda today.
Heh, I get ya, I do think its enough of an issue for me to not want to use the device, but as I've noted its for my wife, and she's fine with it. Majority of the time she has a single coil RDA, or her Kayfun on it, vapes away, and is perfectly happy.
I had noticed the ohms being read low on the builds I had made her, but they were around .8-1.4 ohm, and seemed to work fine.
I really only noticed it being underpowered when I slapped my Atlantis on it, weak vapor production at 30w. Now I'm not saying the device is underpowered and lying like the cloupor t6/t8, I don't think it's that bad. Its just noticeable lower output power at 30w than my other regulated devices with the Atlantis, on my subtank the issue isn't even noticeable. Even our Cloupor Hana clone does better than this thing with the Atlantis, and we all know what a gem those are.
As for the maths and single digits, I guess it could be reading the coil at 0.48, which would be 30w at 3.8v, I highly doubt it, but i guess. Either way all my other regulated boxes, including two others from P4U all push 4.1-4.2v at 30w (or at least claim to), and have much greater vapor production and flavor.
My wife doesn't even really care for the Atlantis, so I guess its not even an issue, and I'll stop ragging on the device.
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OK. My IPVmini appears to not be rounding down, when reading/displaying Volts or Ohms. Instead, it seems to simply be dropping the next digit.
example:
0.49ohm atomizer (average of three different readings -- DMM; crappy 510 Ohm meter; sx350 mod)
IPVmini displays:
30W
3.8V
0.4ohm
In-line voltmeter displays 3.84v steadily after >10 firings
So the question is: Am I getting 30watts at my atomizer?
well, P = V^2 / R
so, (3.84)^2 = 14.756
then (14.756) / (0.49) = 30.093 watts
which is pretty darn awesome if you ask me.
I completely understand all the hawing over all this and I too would be quite bent out of shape were my device not performing properly, especially when a mistaken reading of + 0.01 ohm yields a 1/2 watt output loss. But the fact of the matter as it appears in my case is that the device is doing very nearly exactly what I'm asking of it -- which is to give me 30watts -- it just doesn't "show" exactly how it does it.
example:
0.49ohm atomizer (average of three different readings -- DMM; crappy 510 Ohm meter; sx350 mod)
IPVmini displays:
30W
3.8V
0.4ohm
In-line voltmeter displays 3.84v steadily after >10 firings
So the question is: Am I getting 30watts at my atomizer?
well, P = V^2 / R
so, (3.84)^2 = 14.756
then (14.756) / (0.49) = 30.093 watts
which is pretty darn awesome if you ask me.
I completely understand all the hawing over all this and I too would be quite bent out of shape were my device not performing properly, especially when a mistaken reading of + 0.01 ohm yields a 1/2 watt output loss. But the fact of the matter as it appears in my case is that the device is doing very nearly exactly what I'm asking of it -- which is to give me 30watts -- it just doesn't "show" exactly how it does it.
I get ya. Seen the Atlantis on a few mods and it seems to hold up well to power. I have seen it pushed near 40 watts and just chugging along.
I'm kind of concerned it might be a Chip barrier and it just cannot push that mich power at the lowest ohm loads.
I tossed a .8ohm Magma on one a few minutes ago and switched it to PWM(30w).......No no no.....Man that thing got hot. Switched it Back to DC-DC and still very warm but much nicer.
The .5ohm Magma never gets near that overpowering or even close.
The Orchid with .6ohm kicks nicely at 30w and reads 4.2v - So yea, maybe it hits a wall at the low end.
Another thing I haven't figured. If they are .5ohm minimum, WHY will they read .4ohm and Fire? I mean, obviously the coil is actually .5ohm but if it thinks/reports .4ohm it shouldn't fire.
I was wondering the exact same thing.Another thing I haven't figured. If they are .5ohm minimum, WHY will they read .4ohm and Fire? I mean, obviously the coil is actually .5ohm but if it thinks/reports .4ohm it shouldn't fire.
Interesting, I'll have to do some testing with the inline voltage meter and compare it to other devices.
Same. Although I'm glad it does still fire. If it didn't I think more people would be upset with their IPV minis, heh.
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Has anyone heard any rumors of them planning to start using stainless for the battery cap? I'm planning to pick a mini up soon but if it's something that's going to be addressed with future releases I think I'll wait.
Or even an aftermarket piece, it seems like it would be incredibly cheap and easy to offer a stainless cap! That chromed brass just looks so janky on such a beautiful device!
Or even an aftermarket piece, it seems like it would be incredibly cheap and easy to offer a stainless cap! That chromed brass just looks so janky on such a beautiful device!
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