LOL, Turtle. So so true.
And tiz arrived. The pics are rather dark. I shall have to get some in sunlite, but for now. . ..
Love the pics, Kat. I think it looks great.
iPV Mini?
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Love the pics, Kat. I think it looks great.
Doesn't sound good... 11-12 W isn't much power! What atty and resistance? Might be improper wicking???
I'd second the improper wicking idea... I had same issue from under wicking believe it or not...
Thank you, DPLongo.
IF there was sun poking thru today, I would have shot it. (pics. the mod. not the sun, silly!)
But Mamma Nature is blessing us with her infamous droplets from the sky ..... and we are HAPPY (no roof).
I dunno. It almost seems like it is firing way higher than what it says. Is it PWM we set it to if we do not want to go to high watts?
Still pretty new to my IPV mini (~3 weeks):
I found the PWM mode a bit to flakey for my tastes... Had a hard time finding a sweet spot as it seemed to change every other hit and did get occasional "burnt" hits even at wattage well within the norm for the atty used.
Once I switched to DC-DC, I found a consistent Vape and sweet spot that stayed pretty constant.
For me, my IPV Mini + Subtank mini with 1.2Ω OCC was nice at 12.6 or 13.3w in DC-DC and just tried the .5Ω OCC at 18w in DC-DC, no burnt hits at all.
I too was suggested to start with PWM... And seemed to be constantly having to fiddle with the settings throughout the day due to flavor and burnt hits.
YMMV - but I find I like DC-DC more.
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I found the PWM mode a bit to flakey for my tastes... Had a hard time finding a sweet spot as it seemed to change every other hit and did get occasional "burnt" hits even at wattage well within the norm for the atty used.
Once I switched to DC-DC, I found a consistent Vape and sweet spot that stayed pretty constant.
For me, my IPV Mini + Subtank mini with 1.2Ω OCC was nice at 12.6 or 13.3w in DC-DC and just tried the .5Ω OCC at 18w in DC-DC, no burnt hits at all.
I too was suggested to start with PWM... And seemed to be constantly having to fiddle with the settings throughout the day due to flavor and burnt hits.
YMMV - but I find I like DC-DC more.
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Thank you! I am going to try changing it. Would have been nice to get some instructions with this darn thing. I really love the vape when it is not blasting me!
I agree 100% LØL
I spent the first week grinding my teeth trying to get it all sorted - trying this and that / reading tons of posts.
All I can say is once you do get it sorted - it's bliss.
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People give and receive bad information consistently.
The only way to know how to set your Mini is to know How your top device works.
Type of tank/etc.
Build parameters.
If someone recommends PWM for low watt vaping and you happen to have a .5ohm Sub Tank, Both parties are thinking incorrectly.
If your assumption of Low wattage is at the Voltage Transition point and your set to PWM, the unit may Toggle back and forth between PWM and DC-DC.
The only way to know how to set your Mini is to know How your top device works.
Type of tank/etc.
Build parameters.
If someone recommends PWM for low watt vaping and you happen to have a .5ohm Sub Tank, Both parties are thinking incorrectly.
If your assumption of Low wattage is at the Voltage Transition point and your set to PWM, the unit may Toggle back and forth between PWM and DC-DC.
Just when I thought I knew enough to vape consistently.....I am lost again.
So if I am vaping with a Taifun, built at 1.7 ohms, how do I set the darn thing?
So if I am vaping with a Taifun, built at 1.7 ohms, how do I set the darn thing?
I believe the way it works is if you are vaping at a low wattage that corresponds to a voltage below that of the battery (3.7V), then PWM should be your choice. If at, or above 3.7V, then DC-DC as I understand it.
I posted awhile back that the display had died on my iPV Mini.
I have to say, I am thus far impressed with the warranty service provided by Asmodus. They received the mod via USPS on Wednesday, and by Thursday, they had sent an email to ask permission to remove the carbon fiber wrap I had put on it to take apart the mod.
It was determined that they could not repair the display and would send a new mod. The only hiccup is that the only color they had available to ship immediately was blue. My original Mini was silver.
I could have opted to wait for a silver to be re-stocked, but took the blue one. My wife wants it, and she's willing to trade her brand new 50W iStick for it.
It will be in the mail on Monday, and I already have tracking info. Thumbs up, Asmodus!
I have to say, I am thus far impressed with the warranty service provided by Asmodus. They received the mod via USPS on Wednesday, and by Thursday, they had sent an email to ask permission to remove the carbon fiber wrap I had put on it to take apart the mod.
It was determined that they could not repair the display and would send a new mod. The only hiccup is that the only color they had available to ship immediately was blue. My original Mini was silver.
I could have opted to wait for a silver to be re-stocked, but took the blue one. My wife wants it, and she's willing to trade her brand new 50W iStick for it.
It will be in the mail on Monday, and I already have tracking info. Thumbs up, Asmodus!
If I am off in that statement, then surely crxess (or another very knowledgeable ECF'er) will correct me.
You're not "off", Darryl. As for the downside, right on target. On the upper side though, it's not necessarily written in stone. If you're going up high, DC-DC is a must. But if you're "in the middle", play it to taste. In my case, PWM works well for my 8-10w preference. But others might find DC-DC better at the same setting.
But follow the formula for either fringe option. PWM for very low, DC-DC for very high. Well done, DL (nice initials, by the way).
Have a look at the charts here. It may help some to understand why 8w DC-DC works for some and not for others.
e-CigInfo.net
@ 1.0ohm, 8 watts is under 3v - Not doable in DC-DC
@ 1.7ohm, 8 watts is 3.7v - Baseline doable in DC-DC
@ 2.2ohm, 8 watts is 4.20v - easily done in DC-DC
Next is knowing your tanks:
Kayfun works okay in mid-builds(1.2-1.7ohm) in the 7w-9w Range but much better in the 11w-15w range - IF built properly.
Orchid tanks work best at 20w-35w with builds from .3w-.8w
You must learn the needs of your Tank/build/Preference and find the balance for your particular use.
e-CigInfo.net
@ 1.0ohm, 8 watts is under 3v - Not doable in DC-DC
@ 1.7ohm, 8 watts is 3.7v - Baseline doable in DC-DC
@ 2.2ohm, 8 watts is 4.20v - easily done in DC-DC
Next is knowing your tanks:
Kayfun works okay in mid-builds(1.2-1.7ohm) in the 7w-9w Range but much better in the 11w-15w range - IF built properly.
Orchid tanks work best at 20w-35w with builds from .3w-.8w
You must learn the needs of your Tank/build/Preference and find the balance for your particular use.
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There are several charts in your link, so to make it easier for ppl here is the chart crxess is referring to:
Why don't any of these charts go into the sub ohm ranges? Especially with so many vapors venturing there now...
crxess: As for your suggestions for the KF and Orchid (Resistances and Wattages); aren't those subjective as well? Or averages from experienced builders/vapers?
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