I can't get a correct reading of the volts the Mini is outputting on the multimeter when in PWM mode (pulsing signal).
You need an oscilloscope, and I don't have access to one.
iPV Mini?
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I can't get a correct reading of the volts the Mini is outputting on the multimeter when in PWM mode (pulsing signal).
You need an oscilloscope, and I don't have access to one.
Hi all!
Disclaimer: I'm a n00b.
When the battery meter hits this level does that look like 30-40%?
![IMG_20150103_185009[1].jpg](https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/data/attachments/248/248551-3772b26e92919d2ece97102a6f50ae3d.jpg "IMG_20150103_185009[1].jpg")
Thanks in advance!
Disclaimer: I'm a n00b.
When the battery meter hits this level does that look like 30-40%?
Thanks in advance!
You know ... when the battery get to a certain point, the Mini will shut down by itself (however, I don't normally let it go that low).
And I have found that my battery will charge faster if the ipv Mini is plugged straight into my computer's USB port vs using my Intellicharger i2 battery charger ... but I still mostly pull the battery out of the Mini and use the Intellicharger for charging.
And I have found that my battery will charge faster if the ipv Mini is plugged straight into my computer's USB port vs using my Intellicharger i2 battery charger ... but I still mostly pull the battery out of the Mini and use the Intellicharger for charging.
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I edited my post above ... the USB port on the computer seems much faster than my Intellicharger i2
Yup, agreed. I just want to pull the battery @ 30-40% to be sure the battery doesn't get over-discharged. I wanted to recharge with the xtar MC2 charger just to be safe.
After all... the soldering connections internally look like this, so I was kind of on the fence about letting the IPV do the charging:
![IMG_20150101_181910[1].jpg](https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/data/attachments/248/248573-84702331f594ad3257f25a55bb0bf8d9.jpg "IMG_20150101_181910[1].jpg")
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![IMG_20150101_181659[1].jpg](/data/attachments/248/248572-54ae68fe8e8c5006bb4629ca33ff433d.jpg)
Mine is pretty much perfect fit and finish wise, no gap at the 510, and my cap says L0935. I'm going to buy myself a Lemo Drop if I can find one locally. I was considering an Atlantis or Subtank but I want to end the expense of buying coils.
I thought the same about having to buy coils but with the sub tank you also have the rba deck that actually is really good and i just bought a 5pk of each ohm and have been rewicking and when need be recoil its really easy the top comes off very easy with vice grips.
Obvious I will get nowhere correcting you, but my comment was to TASTE, not Display accuracy and No I did not say just ignore anything.
Your original comment was condescending and off the mark. Think before you post.Obvious I will get nowhere correcting you, but my comment was to TASTE, not Display accuracy and No I did not say just ignore anything.
No, it was truthful. I Said I made the mistake of Assuming. We are all guilty of that at times. Like your assumption, due to your interpretation of words on a page.
I do think. However my thoughts are mine and will likely never match your thoughts exactly. Therefor they will be projected in a different manor. Flexibility in understanding is Key. Expecting Conformity is Dictatorial.
Ok, folks, built a new atty last night. Resistance is 1.02ohm according to both my ohm meter and sx mini. The ipv mini reads it at 0.9 ohm. So I'm standing by my original statement that its off by 0.1 ohm. Maybe not even that because it may not round like the istick. The istick will always tell me 1.3 ohm for a coil that's 1.35-1.39 ohm.
I haven't tested the voltage output yet, but I'm consistantly finding I want to set it about 0.5W lower than on my accurate mods. So half a watt is pretty accurate.
I haven't tested the voltage output yet, but I'm consistantly finding I want to set it about 0.5W lower than on my accurate mods. So half a watt is pretty accurate.
Mine is off by what I'm guessing is 0.1 - 0.2Ω. That's when it's not reading high by +1.0Ω.
I don't regret the purchase of the Mini. Overall, it works nicely, but not sure I'd buy another one.
I hear you if yours is off that much. I would buy another if I could guarantee it was like the one I got. I saw one person say his was off by 0.3 ohms. That's terrible. That also makes me think its not the chip, but rather the 510 or a solder on the wiring.
I think it's the chip ... If the device had a poor solder connection, the device would read high ohms do to the poor conductivity in the solder joint.
But every one of these Mini's that I have read about indicate too low of ohms .... anywhere from 0.1 to 0.3 ohms lower than the actual resistance in the coil.
But every one of these Mini's that I have read about indicate too low of ohms .... anywhere from 0.1 to 0.3 ohms lower than the actual resistance in the coil.
Just for the heck of it, I gutted one of my kanger dual coils and rebuilt it using a single 28 gauge vertical 2.2mm coil (exact same diameter as the positive pin to maximize airflow) that's 1.6ohm with cotton wick and WOW does it hit good @ 12w DC-DC. Much less restrictive than the stacked 2x coils. No leaks, no dry hits, no gurgling, I'm vaping Alpha Vape "The Dude" 6mg which is 30/70 pg/vg.
As for how the mini-ipv reads ohm's... the coil i just made measured 1.6ohm using my fluke, the mini-ipv said it was 1.5ohm. Then once filled with liquid, it reads 1.4ohm. I took the Aerotank V2 off and installed it onto my Vamo V3 and it read 1.5ohm. Then after putting it back onto the IPV, it read 1.5ohm. heh. Must be right on the border between 1.4 and 1.5.
can anyone tell me if a dna 40 chip will fit in the mini? screen size seems the same....
I know I got my IpV mini in hopes of running it with the atlantis. and when i initially put it on it reads at .4 my ohm reader and dan 40 read the coil at .56 so I will fire it a few times and let it set. fire it a few times more and it eventually pops up to .5 and starts firing correctly. I bought it for my wife, for the atlantis. just seems like the chip has to get "adjusted" to the coil/tank or whatever before it wanted to read right. overall, I think the mod is well worth 50$ in comparison to what I have to spend to get 30 watt output and easy 18650 battery change. kind of a dream come true.
I would think the chip has plenty of room Allen, the dna40 I have seen one mounted in a clone zna and the form factor of these 2 mods is real similar. it is actually an awesome idea. a dna40 chip in this mod would be the dream mod. I might would change out the 510 on it as well to a fat daddy but I have not taken this one apart all the way to see what all that would call for. if it is taller, might get the 22mm well and drop on top of the mini shell. just a lot to look at when modding. but thing is def worth the shell. might crack it open and realize the connections inside need upgrading as well. especially if you are planning on utilizing the temperature sensing part of the chip on the 40. just food for thought
I would think the chip has plenty of room Allen, the dna40 I have seen one mounted in a clone zna and the form factor of these 2 mods is real similar. it is actually an awesome idea. a dna40 chip in this mod would be the dream mod. I might would change out the 510 on it as well to a fat daddy but I have not taken this one apart all the way to see what all that would call for. if it is taller, might get the 22mm well and drop on top of the mini shell. just a lot to look at when modding. but thing is def worth the shell. might crack it open and realize the connections inside need upgrading as well. especially if you are planning on utilizing the temperature sensing part of the chip on the 40. just food for thought
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