ipv4 + 28g ni200 uneven issue

[skrilla]

Hello, I know this is the new members area, but as I've only made 3 posts its all I have access to at the moment. I figured I might aswell post something real than just rush to post 5 random messages lol.

I am currently using an ipv4 with a troll RDA, I am doing a dual 28g micro-coil using temp control, 15 wraps, comes in at 0.06ohm they look fairly neat, and it vapes good, but I am getting the dry-coil cutoff and it looks like 1 coil & wick is getting dry, while the 2nd is still soaking wet (still even has juice in its side juice-well) both coils seem to be identical, as I said it seems to hit great, this is my first attempt with nickel I am just wondering if anyone has had the same issue and wouldn't mind helping me out! thanks a lot in advance, I asked around in my local vape shops but they were only familiar with subtank nickel coils and none had built a rda with nickel yet.

 

[McPuff]

it seems that one of your coils is not firing or is firing slower than the other. pull the wick, press the button and see if they fire at the same time. they should both glow from the inside to the outside at the same time. if not check to see if your screws are snug. one might have loosened. if they are still not glowing even give them a sqeeze. by that i mean.. fire the coils till they are red. let go of the button and then gently sqeeze the coil together with a tweezer. do both coils a couple of time until they fire even. also check to see if you have equal wraps on each coil. also i hope you meant your ohms read .6 not .06

 

[Thrasher]

You might have to adjust leg length on one of them to make them fire even

 

[McPuff]

yes that too

 

[skrilla]

thanks for the quick reply, I will try that.. and yes it is .06, lol not sure why it fires it is 15 wraps each I let it cool down and it now says its 0.075

 

[skrilla]

yes, after a re-inspection one of the legs I guess got pinched off when I was trying to carefully(I thought) make sure it was tight, I pushed it in some and readjusted the coil and it seems to work now.. Im not sure if its suppose to fire that low in ohms, or what the difference is with joules and how the coils jump in resistance so fast.. if anyone knows more about this I would love to know as I just got my nickel in today and its my first real go at temp control!

and again, thanks for all the super fast helpful info!

 

[jseah]

it seems that one of your coils is not firing or is firing slower than the other. pull the wick, press the button and see if they fire at the same time. they should both glow from the inside to the outside at the same time. if not check to see if your screws are snug. one might have loosened. if they are still not glowing even give them a sqeeze. by that i mean.. fire the coils till they are red. let go of the button and then gently sqeeze the coil together with a tweezer. do both coils a couple of time until they fire even. also check to see if you have equal wraps on each coil. also i hope you meant your ohms read .6 not .06

With nickel coils and temp control, the coils will never get hot enough to glow red. The temp control will kick on well before that. And with the zero resistance nickel wire, the coil resistances are that low.

 

[skrilla]

With nickel coils and temp control, the coils will never get hot enough to glow red. The temp control will kick on well before that. And with the zero resistance nickel wire, the coil resistances are that low.

So is a 0.06-.07ish coil safe in TC/joules mode? It seems to work fine, batteries are cool.. It's definitely not kicking like I would imagine a 0.06 kanthal coil would.

 

[jseah]

So is a 0.06-.07ish coil safe in TC/joules mode? It seems to work fine, batteries are cool.. It's definitely not kicking like I would imagine a 0.06 kanthal coil would.

The YiHi chip used in the IPV4 and the SX Mini sets a minimum nickel resistance of 0.06, so the 0.06-0.07 coil will fire fine. Joules mode is limited to a maximum of 50 joules, so even with the mod set to the highest joules setting, you're not going to hit the amp limit of the battery. Joules are watts per second, so if you use a time period of 1 second, then 50 joules would equal 50 watts. Ohm's law says that voltage squared divided by resistance is watts. Therefore, if you have 50 watts and the resistance is 0.06 ohms, then voltage squared is 3. Take the square root of 3 and you get a voltage of 1.732 volts. Take voltage of 1.732 volts and divide it by resistance of 0.06 ohms and you get 28.86 amps.

 

[skrilla]

Thanks so much for the clarification! I'm vaping around 30j and it's very nice, I'm just glad my first build is working lol, I have heard it's a pain.. It's a little soft but other than that just a bit different not necessarily a pain.. Your info on the ohm and joules will really come in handy and I totally appreciate your help along with marshallb's troubleshooting tips! Have a wonderful evening.

Sent from my 306SH using Tapatalk

 

[McPuff]

The YiHi chip used in the IPV4 and the SX Mini sets a minimum nickel resistance of 0.06, so the 0.06-0.07 coil will fire fine. Joules mode is limited to a maximum of 50 joules, so even with the mod set to the highest joules setting, you're not going to hit the amp limit of the battery. Joules are watts per second, so if you use a time period of 1 second, then 50 joules would equal 50 watts. Ohm's law says that voltage squared divided by resistance is watts. Therefore, if you have 50 watts and the resistance is 0.06 ohms, then voltage squared is 3. Take the square root of 3 and you get a voltage of 1.732 volts. Take voltage of 1.732 volts and divide it by resistance of 0.06 ohms and you get 28.86 amps.

thanks for the info. i did not know about the temp control. i have yet to pick one up. will be soon tho. and i will be using this info. thanks again

 

[jseah]

I tried winding a nickel coil and it came out horrendous. I ended up buying two 50 packs of pre-wound nickel coils from Fasttech, one at 0.1 ohm and one at 0.15 ohm. Nickel wire is so soft it is hard to keep its shape. And the resistance is so low you get some pretty ridiculous numbers. The B&M who made my nickel coils for me for my RDA uses 28 gauge nickel wire and does 9 wraps and it comes out at 0.107 ohms. If you wanted it at 0.5 ohms, you need something ridiculous like 20-something or 30 wraps. Imagine trying to fit that into a RDA.

The premade nickel coils for the Subtank, Nautilus and Atlantis I believe are made with 30 gauge wire, because they come out at 0.15 ohms and looking into the OCC, it looks like it is about 7 wraps.

 

[skrilla]

nice info, I will definitely check that out! I am currently looking at some of the other options, I've seen people making the nickel coils in their RDA's spaced out, whereas mine is real tight like the kanthal coils I build, might have to see how that works, I've also heard of people twisting kanthal or other wire together with the nickel, not sure how that would work either, but it sounds neat and is definitely interesting.. lol something for me to tinker with.. and I'm sure its going to take a bit of practice to get a good setup, and yeah the nickel is so soft just wicking it can warp the whole thing if your not super gentle lol.

 

[Wraith504]

it is very soft and does not hold shape well. This is why most people I think prefer to build traditional spaced coils. When you build contact coils you have to squeeze and pick at them until they fire correctly. A really simple way to think of your TC mode. The temperature is self explanatory, The joules is how fast you reach the desired temps. More joules faster ramp time.