I have an ipv4 and am liking it a lot so far, however I have a question. When setting the resistance for a nickel coil, while cooled down to room temp, mine always sets the detected resistance a little lower than when I put it on an ohm meter or on my VF dna40 clones...by about .05 - .07 ohms. If I set the resistance after the coil has warmed up after a few hits, it reads as it does on an ohm meter...is this normal?
iPV4 Set Resistance
- Thread starter mesamay2003
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
While I have not used that specific board, the way YiHi does resistance setting is different from Evolv. YiHi should actually reflect the same reading as the ohm meter. Evolv does some normalization so that the number represents the value at a fixed temperature.
i noticed with mine i can press both buttons to set it and sometimes i can press it again and it will go lower....w/both Ni & Ti
My issue is that it sets the resistance consistently lower than it reads on an ohm meter or my dna clone devices...which in turn really affects how it vapes...if I take a few puffs, warming up the coil and set it, it then reads it much closer to the actual value...trying to figure out if this is just my unit, or how they all work...
Can anyone with an iPV4 put on a nickel build while cooled down, and do a set resistance to see if it reads it quite a bit lower than the actual value you would get from an ohm meter...
From what I have seen and read and viewed, the coil should always be placed on the MOD when it's cold or room temperature. This give the most accurate ohm reading possible.
Regarding ohm meters, I have yet to find an accurate one of all the ones I've used. (Read black plastic box units priced around $8-15.)
Even using an Volt/Ohm meter aka multimeter the readings were inaccurate.
I ordered an all metal unit from FastTech. It has a built-in Li-Io battery to charge up and from the reviews I read it was the most accurate with a variance of only .01 ohm max.
There were some reviewer that took very fine grit wet/dry sandpaper such as 1200 grit or finer and slightly abraded the 510 connection and their readings started to be basically right on.
I'll try to give some feedback on this unit when it arrives next week.
Yes, that's my whole question, when placing a room temp coil on the unit and doing a set resistance, it reads low...hit the fire button a few times and then set resistance, it is much closer to the resistance that reads on an ohm meter or dna 40...
How far off is it?
What tank are you using, a prebuilt nickel coil unit like a GCT or a homemade coil? RTA? RDA?
Sounds like you may be experiencing possible connection problems.
What tank are you using, a prebuilt nickel coil unit like a GCT or a homemade coil? RTA? RDA?
Sounds like you may be experiencing possible connection problems.
It consistently lowers resistance by about .04 - .06...and it happens with Ni200 occ coils and rba on a ST Mini and also on a Lemo 2 and Magma RDA...it seems to vape fine but this is weird. I am getting another unit in a few days, so I guess I will test myself if nobody else chimes in with theirs...
I don't have an IPV4..... but in my experience all of my Temp control devices (nickel wire) all of them agree on ohm readings with my ohm checker.... you may be seeing a difference due to the resistance built into the different devices and/or the chipset not reading the ohm's correctly... just a thought as I have no IPV 4.... good luck...
Maybe someone with an IPV4 will pop in....
Maybe someone with an IPV4 will pop in....
Your atty is cooled down to room temperature, but what about the mod? Has it been used just prior to changing the atty? Have you been holding it in your hand the entire time? The atty and the mod should be at the same temperature, is it possible that your mod is warmer than your atty?
I noticed this as well. My ipv 3 is really spot on with resistance as with my ohm meter and multimeter. The voltage was within .04 of what the screen displayed. I found this ipv4 to be off quite a bit for temperature control. I've used both a clone flask and rdna40 and resistance is definately off a bit. Which the resting resistance make a big difference in burnt cotton or not. I also noticed the device is putting more power out then what it displays. It's showing me 2.91 volts and actually at the rda with a voltage meter is showing more like 3.07 volts. So 45 watts is more like 50 watts with a build that read .17 which is a really a .20 build. I'm really disappointed after the ipv3. I dunno maybe contact them about the issue?
So it is not just mine...thanks for responding, I was losing hope!! I did email them, we'll see if/how they respond...again this may be by design in temp mode, or some sort of quick workaround for some sort of issue on their end. I have not noticed this in wattage mode, resistance readings seem more accurate, at least what is displayed.
I wanted to respond so bad. I had to run around posting 5 times lol. This problem has been driving me nuts since I got the device a Monday. But I have definately noticed it is more powerful then displayed in wattage mode as well. You can test yours with a voltage meter see if you got similar results. It was off a good 5+ watts with different atty resistances. I don't really fully under stand joules yet the voltage is definately higher at the atty then what the device shows.
I dont have this mod, but i do have an sx mini M-class, which is a similar chip. I would recommend you trust the device's reading over anything else. At least in my mind, that is the resistance it is basing everythign on with temp control, and i figure if it reads to the 3rd decimal, it must be pretty good quality. Unlike the $10.00 ohm reader i have. This is assuming both the mod and RDA have both sat for a few minutes first to make sure they are same temp. As long as the readings are consistent, i wouldnt worry about it too much. just my $.02
- Status
