The readings are consistent, however about .05 ohms or so lower than a dna 40 or ohm meter read...there is no visual feedback of the coil resistance in temp mode once you set it, so my .15 coil is detected at about .089 - .091 when cool, and this is what is displayed on the screen...this has been duplicated with multiple coils/tanks.
iPV4 Set Resistance
- Thread starter mesamay2003
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It also affects temperature so you need to re-adjust the limit lower otherwise it will torch cotton. With titanium wire my usual temperature is around 380 on dna40 where it might just brown cotton. With the resistance off on the ipv4 I can light cotton on fire at 330 degrees.... That's a problem it's supposed to show dry atomizer before burning. Can't trust a device that's just plain inaccurate in multiple situations. If the resistance is set lower then the true resistance. It's going to apply higher voltage then needed. Not including that it's already applying higher voltage then the screen displays.
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Got my second iPV4 today and it reads exactly the same as my other one, so maybe my ohm meter is not very accurate a super low ohms on nickel...at any rate, it vapes great, so I'll just let it do it's thing and see if they release a firmware update...or maybe get a more accurate ohm meter!!
I have my IPV 4 and I am using the Kanger subtank Ni200 coils which have .15 ohm printed on it, when I use set resistance on my mod it shows .11 every time, every coil, so far, at least 8 of them, that is a cool resistance check. If i vape on it and then do it, it will change resistance because thats what happens but if I leave it set to a warmer resistance .14 or .15 the vape gets very hot and my coils burn up fast. I don't have an ohm meter because i don't build much lately and never replaced the one that died but I cannot speak for the accuracy if these are supposed to be .15 ohm coil heads.
My ohm meter I got will read the RTAs resistance about 0.01 higher than what my iPV4 will register.
The ohm meter uses one of those cheap 510 / EGO connector style mounts with chrome-plated brass.
It read a lot higher when I first got it but took some 800 grit emery paper and lightly buffed the connection threading
and the center 510 pin connector. Now it's much more accurate, 50% of the time it's spot on the other 50% will vary by 0.01 ohm higher.
My iPV4 ohm readings jive exactly like they should as computed at the Steam Engine Ohm Calculator page... a lot of users though will forget to
adjust the "Leg Length" setting on that page, it can vary depending on how long the coil's legs are going to the connection screws.
The ohm meter uses one of those cheap 510 / EGO connector style mounts with chrome-plated brass.
It read a lot higher when I first got it but took some 800 grit emery paper and lightly buffed the connection threading
and the center 510 pin connector. Now it's much more accurate, 50% of the time it's spot on the other 50% will vary by 0.01 ohm higher.
My iPV4 ohm readings jive exactly like they should as computed at the Steam Engine Ohm Calculator page... a lot of users though will forget to
adjust the "Leg Length" setting on that page, it can vary depending on how long the coil's legs are going to the connection screws.
I definitely would not rely on what Kanger states on those coils. They're hand wound in a factory by human beings and just one wrap less or more can make a difference.
Trust the device's better electronics and not what is stamped on the coil heads.
Mine is the opposite. The IPV registers my coils .01 higher than my ohms meter. Guess I need to check my second IPV4 and see if it does the same. If so, then its my ohms meter.
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Which I get except every coild is the same so why not call them .11 ohm coils. Hand wound is good argument if I was getting radically different resistence with each new head but it always reads .04 ohm lower than stamped making me think its an IPV issue not the coil
I would bet money that if you put those heads on an ohm meter you would find that they really are .15ohm heads and it's the mod that is off.
You do realize 330 on a Ti wire is equivalent to about 550 on Ni which SHOULD burn cotton right? Sounds to me like you're getting mad at your ipv because your DNA is burning cooler than it should.
Also, my ipv4 seems to read about .015 higher than my ohm meter so I'm not sure which is off, but it doesn't affect Tc whatsoever. A lot of you guys are throwing around the word accuracy when you mean precision, your high school math teachers would be sad. A system that reads .01 off but reads exactly. 01 off in the same direction 100 of 100 times can be said to be PERFECT ACCURACY.
I get the same result on ohms meters and my ipv4, but my first ipv4 was broken and had bad reading that got worse over time until it burned up. So thats something to look out for. It would over or undershoot random amounts of ohms
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