Up until yesterday I was using an ego battery with my phoenix. Just a 650mah so I didn't give it much thought. But at vapercon yesterday I picked up a bolt w/ 2 extensions running EH imr 18650 with a kick (big up's to madvapes!) So this morning batts are all charged up and I set out for a full day of uninterrupted vaping and bam! 2:00 the kick starts sputtering! Tell-tale sign of a dead battery. 6 hours on a fresh 18650? And I'm pretty type A about putting my atty on a meter and only once ever have I got a bad "shorted" reading. I run lr coils. This one is about 1.9 ohms and my kick is set to about 8 watts. Thing is my ego got me till noon, so only 2 extra hours of life on my new set-up. Matter of fact it's 8:00 now and my second battery just died as i'm typing this. 6 hours on fully charged 18650's. Anyone else having this problem?BTW, Vapercon was amazing!
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6 hours seems a little quick. But, in order to vape a 1.9 ohm coil at 8 watts, you'd be pulling about 2 amps.
Right, so if I run a higher ohm coil at the same wattage it should put out lower amperage, thereby increasing my battery charge life, correct? It'll probly take me a few days of playing around to get what I need out of it.
I usually run 1.6-2 ohm carto/tank on a kicked silver bullet, and the batteries usually last me a whole day (well i guess till I get home, but more than 6 hours and I'm using 18490). Maybe new batteries take a couple charging cycles to top off?
Offtopic: So, the Bolt would work with 18650+kick if you get 2 extensions for it? Interesting
Offtopic: So, the Bolt would work with 18650+kick if you get 2 extensions for it? Interesting
Depends if one put the PV down!
But 6 hrs on new batts seems ok.
Dont run the new batteries all the way down,switch every 3-4 hrs...you'll get better perfs from them (and last longer--in months)
But 6 hrs on new batts seems ok.
Dont run the new batteries all the way down,switch every 3-4 hrs...you'll get better perfs from them (and last longer--in months)
Wait, how am I supposed to breath without my pv in my mouth! Lol, yeah, I'm a heavy chain-er.
Yeah, the kick works nice in the bolt w/ 2 extensions. I'll try switching my batts every 4hrs or so till I can get a new coil in this thing. It's my 1st mod and I'm so used to lr vaping I haven't tried anything above 2ohms. But I saw conflicting info on the kick's max volt output. One review said just under 4, but a video showed it max out at around 5 1/2. I'll meter it later tonight and see what I come up with.
Yeah, the kick works nice in the bolt w/ 2 extensions. I'll try switching my batts every 4hrs or so till I can get a new coil in this thing. It's my 1st mod and I'm so used to lr vaping I haven't tried anything above 2ohms. But I saw conflicting info on the kick's max volt output. One review said just under 4, but a video showed it max out at around 5 1/2. I'll meter it later tonight and see what I come up with.
Just to let you know, my gripper vv runs my hoenix just fine, the phoenix gets very hot but works, on the other hand ive shorted the spring on my Reo mini 2 times, second time was cause im a ..... and forgot the first time...
My itaste innokin wont run it at all.
My itaste innokin wont run it at all.
lol. Let's see.....
1.9 ohms. 8 watts. That 3.9 volts. Do the same thing...without the kick. Use the 3.7 volt battery. What happens?
Why use a kick if you're changing a 3.7 volt battery to a 3.9 volt regulated supply? I suppose you could justifiably answer "regulation and consistency". But you're probably burning up the battery faster for little gain. Or... you could try it with lower watts (say 7) or higher ohms on the coil. I don't know enough about the kick's design to know what it's efficiency curve is given different (buck vs boost) configurations.
P.S. Remember that watts = V2/Ω (Voltage squared divided by ohms) or V=SQRT(Watts*Ω)
Also, what battery is it? The IMRs have less mAh than the protected Li-Ion so you have to take that into account.
1.9 ohms. 8 watts. That 3.9 volts. Do the same thing...without the kick. Use the 3.7 volt battery. What happens?
Why use a kick if you're changing a 3.7 volt battery to a 3.9 volt regulated supply? I suppose you could justifiably answer "regulation and consistency". But you're probably burning up the battery faster for little gain. Or... you could try it with lower watts (say 7) or higher ohms on the coil. I don't know enough about the kick's design to know what it's efficiency curve is given different (buck vs boost) configurations.
P.S. Remember that watts = V2/Ω (Voltage squared divided by ohms) or V=SQRT(Watts*Ω)
Also, what battery is it? The IMRs have less mAh than the protected Li-Ion so you have to take that into account.
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People running out of Battery Power when they are at these big Vape Events? Do some vendor's actually supply CHARGED batteries when they are sold? Would there be a demand for fully charge batteries if you use, say, your own 18650 as a trade in until you return to get it back?
Correct. At a given wattage, the combination of a higher resistance coil/higher voltage will result in longer battery duration than achieving the same wattage with lower resistance/lower voltage.
Yeah, the consistant vapor production is awesome with the kick. the batts are EH IMR 2000mah. I hate to wreck a good working coil so when it goes sour in a couple weeks i'll try a higher ohm one. I did drop my watts to 7 and it lasted a little over 8 hours.
Lol, Idk, but seeing as this was my 1st mod and the only battery I owned was a 650mah ego I don't think it would have worked for me. But yeah they were pretty full. I was playing with the kick alot but they still lasted me about 4 hours without charging them.
From what I understand, this is similar to the argument that many of the long-time mod aficionados use when explaining why they run low-resistance, low-voltage setups- which I totally agree with! Wrapping a 1.5-1.7 ohm coil will give you great performance @ 3.7v...and if you have a VV mod, taking it down to 3v with a 1.2 ohm coil gives you about the same performance, with an increase in batt life (minus the extra drain from the circuitry)...or does it?? Now I'm all confused, because according to science, if you used your VV at higher voltage with a higher-resistance coil, it would run longer... but I would *swear* that my LR coils last longer at low voltage than the high/high setups I've ran in the past.
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... also a tell tale sign of a bad neg conenction. The bolt is chrome palted on the inside sand out a bare spot and woila, no more problems. I had to do this for a customer, my own bolt, the Adam (fake GG) and the newest SBs which are electroplated throughout.
If you had a 5 volt battery rather than a 3.7 volt...the 5 volt would be more "efficient". However, if you take an e-cig that has a single 3.7 volt battery and make it VV WITH A BOOSTER you have to account for losses due to having to boost the voltage.
So...when this vv stuff started to be mainstream, I posed a question to the "mind trust" in the modder's area about single-battery vv implementations like the twist. What would be more efficient at the same wattage, high volts or low volts? We never got a good theoretical answer due to implementation details for each device.
Reports seem to indicate that people using lower voltages, on a twist for example, seem to get longer life. So...bucking the voltage (reducing it) seems more efficient than boosting it even when accounting for the theoretical gains obtained using higher voltage. This is PROBABLY true for the kick as well. Now, for a stacked battery mod where you only buck the voltage, higher voltage is often more efficient. Particularly if using a linear regulator (that dissipates excess voltage as heat).
Hmm it's my understanding that battery life is only affected by the watts you're pulling off of it...say your sweet spot is 8 watts, and you're using a 2 ohm atty at 4 volts, that has a current of 2 amps, but the actual energy being used up is a flow of 8 watts from the battery to the coil. So say you take on average a 2 second draw, and take a draw once every minute (to make things easier, my case it's more like every 15 seconds lol), a battery that's rated at 2000 mAh can sustain a constant 2 amp current for one hour before depleting, so that would last you roughly 30 hours (3600sec/hour divided by drawTime=120sec/hour equals 30 hours, since the amps for both the battery rating and the setup are the same). Now more realistically it's more like a 6 second draw every 30 seconds or so with breaks here and there, depending on nic level and what not, so we'll say an average of 600 seconds per hour, which would deplete the battery in 6 hours.
If you used a 2.0 ohm coil at 4.0 volts, you are correct. You'd be drawing 2.0 amps and 8 watts. However, suppose you used a 1.0 ohm coil. In order to achieve the same 8 watts, your voltage would be just a bit over 2.8 volts. But, your amp draw would be 2.8 amps. The battery duration, because of the increase in amp draw, would be much shorter.
Yea you're right, was thinking that as I was typing the last part of that up. The watts didn't figure into my calculations at all, it was all based on the amps. This is actually something I was trying to figure out a couple weeks ago because of my 700 mAh batteries. They seemed to be lasting quite a long time compared to my twist, and I wasn't sure why until I broke out the calculator.
Like some others have mentioned, it's not just about your voltage and ohms. You also have to take into account the circuitry and the demands that it has. The actual voltage under load plays a part as well. With my NiMH batteries for instance, there's a consistent drop of about 900mV under load, so rather than it being 4.8v, it's actually 3.9 while I'm vaping. My twist on the other hand only has a 500mV drop when set to 4.8v making it 4.3v under load, or around that anyways. Haven't ran any tests on it in buck mode...would assume there's no drop since it's just regulating it, might have to test that now. Also with regulated voltage it stays consistent, as opposed to the voltage dropping off as the battery drains. There's a lot of factors to it really.
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