Is there a foolproof way to rebuild EVOD/Protank coils?

[old_geezer]

I've watched the YouTube vids. I bought 1mm-3.5mm silica. I have a lot of cotton. I have little snippers and stuff. I have 32ga-26ga kanthal from TemCo. I pre burn the kanthal over a large gas stove that .... Still, maybe half, if I'm lucky, of the coils I rebuild turns out to be a winner. I have the tiny 1/16th drill bit, and bigger ones, and tiny allen wrenches. Just stopping the gurgles would be a win. I don't suck so hard that I flood them or I wouldn't have so many winners. And I'm careful about flooding cuz I'm failing so bad...lol I'm rebuilding authentic EVOD's mostly silver and authentic TALL coils if that means anything. I think it was last night when I stacked the silicon? cup gaskets both up and down and it still gurgled like hell on a protank 2 I started going insane. I've only rebuilt about 40 so far.

PS, I have a ohm/volt smok Omnimeter? And SVD and MVP2 meters. I try and run 1.7 to 2.1 Ohms or so on my wraps.

- Joe

 

[VaPreis]

My preference is to build tightly wrapped microcoils at 1/16"ID. 29 or 30ga seems to be the best for regulated devices. 10 wraps of 30ga should get you in the area of 2Ω. The benefit of keeping them at 1/16" is that the bit will fit perfectly in the slots, holding your coil position as you secure the leads. I even like to throw the cap on over the bit to keep it from falling out while I install the grommet and bottom pin.

I wick them with a full strand of cotton yarn. Wet your fingers and roll the end of a piece of yarn between thumb and forefinger until it's skinny enough to start through your coil. Once it's started, it will pull through easily.



My success rate with this method? 100%

 

[alisa1970]

What he said...sorry you're having such bad luck starting. For me it seemed really easy. Maybe you're making it too complicated? Are you wrapping micro-coils? Those are easier for me to do. Just wrap it around tightly (I also use 30ga and a 1/16" mini screwdriver, usually 7 or 8 wraps for 1.8 ohms), then use tweezers and a small torch to squish them together. I've yet to have a dud.

If it's gurgling, I think it's a wicking issue, not the coils.

 

[KODIAK (TM)]

Hi Joe,

Good advice before me. If you are using cotton "balls" your wicking diameter will be inconsistent from coil to coil. I prefer cotton yarn (4 ply). 2 strands through the coil (yes, 2), and another on top. It will seem tight and your coil will look "fuzzy" but everything will be plugged nicely.

I'm using one now in a mini protank going on 3 months.

 

[AveryW]

Honestly in my experience, more cotton is better with the kanger coils, but not too much. I'd put one decently thick strand of cotton through the coil, cut right at the edge of the head, prime the coil with a few drops, test it, put it back together, and vape.
The only tank I ever had issues with was my Aerotank, then my kfl+ clone came in the mail a few days later and I quit messing with it, so I never really sorted it out. It really just takes time learning the characteristics and quirks of your tank.

Sent from the mothership.

 

[Choc_Addic]

Try different amount of cotton would be your ticket.
May be use peaches and cream for consistent diameter of the wick? I unravel and use 3 strands and fold over (Thread thru with a piece of wire). Works good every time.

Cheers

 

[NoMoreCope]

I use a 16ga needle to wrap my coils for the EVOD/Protank. I think I do a 28ga/10 wrap... can't remember, as I only have one Aerotank in use by the girlfriend that just gets re-wicked as it's seemingly indestructible.

With cotton, enough for there to be just a bit of resistance pulling through, then trim even with the base of the atty head. I usually place another similar piece of cotton on top of coil/wick before priming and putting the chimney on. Never had issues feeding, other than temperature/elevation changes.

Last weekend, I found that 16ga coil was what I learned was needed for 2mm ReadyXwick.. so I threaded a piece into the gfs Aerotank single coil, placed another above it, and ended up at two above it... and I have what seems like a perfectly feeding, dry burnable, long lasting XC-116 Protank atty head. When gunked, pull the flavor wicks and torch them white... slowly dry burn the coil/wick back to white, and reassemble. Brand new wicks. It's glorious.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

 

[BigCatDaddy]

The best thing you can do for that Protank II is get an Aerotank base for it, around $5. No more leaks...period!! As far as the builds, everyone has their opinion about what's best. Mine is 6 wraps of 32 ga., evenly spaced, tight wraps on a 1 /16 drill bit for a 1.8Ω coil, wicked with 2 strands of the 4 in Peaches and Cream yarn or 2 strands of 1mm hemp yarn. No flavor wick. Vapes like a beast, outdoes my Kayfun Lite Plus.

 

[danny4x4]

Just summarising what has been posted and some additions.

1) for bcc clearos, the cotton has to be rolled tighter compared to RBA/RDA. After threading through the coil, roll the cotton in the other direction to "spread" out the tips. It's OK if the cotton in the wick stays unruffled and tight. You want the tips of the cotton to be fluffed and sealing the gap.

2) 1/16 bit or screwdriver of the approximate same diameter sits just nicely in the groove. Not too high and not too low.

3) cotton as main wick and ekowool or butchers twine for flavour wick. (My personal preference) Using cotton as both main and flavour wick never worked out for me. Would leak when near empty. I use 2mm or 3mm flavour wick, depending on how much cotton I put through the main wick. Less cotton for main wick=thicker flavour wick needed.

4) the kanger airflow controller will help prevent leaks through the 510 connection. You will still get gurgles if the amount of cotton/flavour wick is insufficient.

 

[SKYYcamel]

Which Peaches and Cream yarn are you guys using?