Also, Battery charge 4.1v, under load with Aga-Tiamat + was 3.5v
Just tested on a Phoenix Clone 3.6v
Just tested on a Phoenix Clone 3.6v
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iSeason Mechanical Mod -- Adam clone w/brass contacts
- Thread starter StaircaseWit
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That is bad. It is the same as the Natural out of the box. After sanding all the contacts on the Natural it went from 3.55v to 3.9v with a 1.0 ohm coil on the Cobra. So that is going from 12.6 watts to 15.2 watts....So a 2.6 watts difference...that is significant. The extra resistance must be coming from the spring of the ISeason.
I could bare it better with a 1ohm coil but unfortunately the places I usually get my wire/mesh from are out of stock on the IGO-L and I only have 32guage wire 
- Don't get me wrong I love it, its a beautiful mod but I definitely think the spring needs to be replaced with some kind of brass contact.
- Don't get me wrong I love it, its a beautiful mod but I definitely think the spring needs to be replaced with some kind of brass contact.
Looks like the spring has just been cut to size .... its not flat where she ends, and probably doesn't have a large connection profile to the battery. Replace with one from a cheap flashlight, better yet, bend it flat with some vice grips. Flashlite modders would put a thin washer in there soldered to the spring.
So much for my seat-of-the-pants test.
After thinking I'd actually need one of those fancy load testers I see in reviews, it dawned on me: I could test the drop under load by simply firing the device with meter probes touching the positive and negative on my AGA-T2 with a coil in place. I dug out my multi-meter (that I honestly thought had been lost two moves ago), scrounged for tiny L1157 batteries (my meter is very old) and tested the iSeason with my AGA-T2 under a 1.7ohm load and got very similar results to Xylocaine's with the stock spring. It's amazing how vape quality can seem the same, yet the voltage drop is there. Thanks JuniorNA for trying the same test, but there's no denying the numbers.
I tried it again with my iSeason brass-to-brass contact mod for 18490s (both ends of the battery contact brass) and got a drop of 0.19V -- probably the practical limit with this switch and tube setup. This leads me to believe the switch and spring in the Natural must be pretty efficient if the numbers I've seen for it are correct.
It seems to be 7mm, but I couldn't find any 7mm bolts the local hardware. I did find brass and copper springs, but I have to mod them before they'll fit. I ran out of modding motivation for the night. The brass spring is long enough to bottom out and make better contact. I'll play with it tomorrow.
Yep, so it's not making great contact with the battery, and it's pretty loose in the brass sleeve. I like the idea of a thin washer for the battery end and stretching it to make it tighter in the sleeve.
All in all, she needs a few modifications.
After thinking I'd actually need one of those fancy load testers I see in reviews, it dawned on me: I could test the drop under load by simply firing the device with meter probes touching the positive and negative on my AGA-T2 with a coil in place. I dug out my multi-meter (that I honestly thought had been lost two moves ago), scrounged for tiny L1157 batteries (my meter is very old) and tested the iSeason with my AGA-T2 under a 1.7ohm load and got very similar results to Xylocaine's with the stock spring. It's amazing how vape quality can seem the same, yet the voltage drop is there. Thanks JuniorNA for trying the same test, but there's no denying the numbers.
I tried it again with my iSeason brass-to-brass contact mod for 18490s (both ends of the battery contact brass) and got a drop of 0.19V -- probably the practical limit with this switch and tube setup. This leads me to believe the switch and spring in the Natural must be pretty efficient if the numbers I've seen for it are correct.
It seems to be 7mm, but I couldn't find any 7mm bolts the local hardware. I did find brass and copper springs, but I have to mod them before they'll fit. I ran out of modding motivation for the night.
The brass spring is long enough to bottom out and make better contact. I'll play with it tomorrow. Yep, so it's not making great contact with the battery, and it's pretty loose in the brass sleeve. I like the idea of a thin washer for the battery end and stretching it to make it tighter in the sleeve.
All in all, she needs a few modifications.
Does anyone know how under-load voltage testing varies with the resistance of the coil? It's in the electron path, so it has to have some effect. Would a very low-resistance coil exhibit less drop, and a higher-resistance coil exhibit more (which would be intuitive, but these things aren't always)? Just curious if these numbers are directly-comparable without knowing a) the resistance of the device used (probably a very small number and inconsequential for most devices) and b) the resistance of the coil. Resistance causes the drop, after all, so these factors should have some impact on the numbers.
The spring of the Iseason is where the resistance is causing the voltage drop....if it was brass to brass contact there would be only .19v voltage drop but with the spring it is more like 0.7v.
You're definitely correct...you can't compare a 1.0 ohm coil to a 2.0 ohm coil for example. You will get more voltage drop and greater loss of watts (percentage wise as well) with the lower ohm coil. So people who use higher ohm attys aren't really concerned about the voltage drop. This could be the reason you didn't notice a voltage drop when you did your seat-of-the-pants test....if you were using a higher ohm atty.
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lets try to find a screw/bolt that fits and post what threading it requires in this thread. Any ideas? I am going to go to lowe's tomorrow when i get mine, possibly another hardware store. i also make jewelry and am thinking of a copper tube design that would slide (snuggly) around the bottom brass part where the spring screws in. I figure if i make a tube thats open on one end (to slide around the brass part) and then flat on the other end (to make contact with the battery), it may be a fix, i just have to figure out the right length, that would be a last resort if i can't find a bolt/screw.
EDO is correct. It's pretty easily minimized, though. I've been testing the brass spring tonight and it makes quite a bit of difference. I picked it up at the local hardware so they can't be that hard to find, and flashlights routinely have brass springs, although they typically aren't the right shape. I'm still working on a couple things, but the brass spring got me down in the 0.4V range when bottomed-out, which still isn't great.
I did find this from Atimizoo: Voltage Drop - Not Where You Think | atmizoo vaping modware
The takeaway is this: to compare the voltage drop on two devices, you need to test them with the same battery and the same atomizer. Any other numbers are skewed. So we can't make a real comparison with the Natural or any other device, unfortunately, unless someone has both. Eventually I'm sure someone will and we can get some real numbers to work with. I found it interesting in that article that people were finding voltage drops in the 0.5-0.8V range for a device as carefully designed and expensive as the Roller! It all depends on battery and coil.
But there's definitely room for improvement in the iSeason. My brass-to-brass mod numbers demonstrate that.
I did find this from Atimizoo: Voltage Drop - Not Where You Think | atmizoo vaping modware
The takeaway is this: to compare the voltage drop on two devices, you need to test them with the same battery and the same atomizer. Any other numbers are skewed. So we can't make a real comparison with the Natural or any other device, unfortunately, unless someone has both. Eventually I'm sure someone will and we can get some real numbers to work with. I found it interesting in that article that people were finding voltage drops in the 0.5-0.8V range for a device as carefully designed and expensive as the Roller! It all depends on battery and coil.
But there's definitely room for improvement in the iSeason. My brass-to-brass mod numbers demonstrate that.
Probably the fastest & easiest fix is take a slice of metal webbing from a small piece of coax shielding, wrap it and jam it around the spring. Not pretty, but effective when you use different brand batteries that have slightly different lengths.
I didn't even think about sleeving the existing spring. Nice option, although I don't think the spring will "thread" back into the post with that wrapped. I do think I know where I can get some brass foil, though, if it's still there...
Do you have this device, Light Seeker?
my goal is to eliminate the spring. i have a criteria for my devices and among the top on the list is: NO SPRINGS (other than in the switches), springs wear out, springs are a PITA to replace, springs suck. I need to find a way to get rid of this spring haha.
Do you have a CCTS by chance that you have removed the spring? I was thinking about removing the one on mine and cutting down the post to make it a little shorter as it is a telescope mod.
Don't have this mod, but I'm shopping & comparing.... I like the looks, the size, the switch ..... And totally agree with catanddog - springs are a PITA!
springs suck. i refuse to buy a MOD (unless it's under $50) with a spring (other than in the switch). I just picked up a Gus G22 with a modified top contact that eliminated the spring, very stoked about that because that's what was holding me back. i know many SLR RBA users are in the same boat as me and despise springs. lets be honest...springs suck. NOW LETS FIND A BOLT TO REPLACE THIS SPRING WITH!
I've already eliminated the spring if you're okay with 18490 batteries. I just have to do the work of shaving the top brass contact enough so that the top cap threads all the way onto the bottom tube. If you read my description in the first few posts of this thread, I said it's quite close to being able to hold an 18490 as-is. It's so close that if you remove the spring you can already use an 18490, but the tubes won't thread all the way together. That's what I modded: making the brass sleeve that holds the spring shorter, and now I plan to make the top contact short enough to close the gap. But I'm using it in no-spring brass-to-brass mode right now, with an 18490. I'll finish it up this weekend.
The bolt idea might be a challenge because the threads in the tube are quite coarse to accept the spring. It seems to be a 7mm hole, but I'm not sure what thread pitch would be that coarse, or if such a bolt exists (my hardware store had no 7mm bolts to try). Custom threaded rod is cheap here though (there's a place that makes custom whatever you want), although I don't know if they work in brass.
The bolt idea might be a challenge because the threads in the tube are quite coarse to accept the spring. It seems to be a 7mm hole, but I'm not sure what thread pitch would be that coarse, or if such a bolt exists (my hardware store had no 7mm bolts to try). Custom threaded rod is cheap here though (there's a place that makes custom whatever you want), although I don't know if they work in brass.
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