Issue with my Veritas?

[jpcwon]

Hey Guys,

So I have a Veritas rda that I've had for a few months now. I have done several builds on it and it seems to vape VERY well! Well today, I pulled my previous build out of it and was getting ready to put a new build in it. I screwed the rda (with NO build in it) down onto my Ohms checker that I use to build on. Well the Ohm checker just happened to be on, and it is showing .33 Ohms for my Veritas with absolutely NO Kanthal in it! The reading isn't consistent either; it jumps all around.

How can this be happening? I mean I know there must be a short or something in the atty itself, but how come it's been performing so well otherwise??

Just to make sure it wasn't my Ohm checker, I screwed several different attys onto it, and it read "Open" for every other one except for the Veritas.....

Not sure what to make of this. Any ideas? i am now afraid to use the atty!!

View attachment 361675

 

[reeftivo]

Hey Guys,

So I have a Veritas RDA that I've had for a few months now. I have done several builds on it and it seems to vape VERY well! Well today, I pulled my previous build out of it and was getting ready to put a new build in it. I screwed the RDA (with NO build in it) down onto my Ohms checker that I use to build on. Well the Ohm checker just happened to be on, and it is showing .33 Ohms for my Veritas with absolutely NO Kanthal in it! The reading isn't consistent either; it jumps all around.

How can this be happening? I mean I know there must be a short or something in the atty itself, but how come it's been performing so well otherwise??

Just to make sure it wasn't my Ohm checker, I screwed several different attys onto it, and it read "Open" for every other one except for the Veritas.....

Not sure what to make of this. Any ideas? i am now afraid to use the atty!!

View attachment 361675

i don't have the veritas yet, but I would double check the insulator at the positive post to make sure it is not damaged (split, smashed, melted inside etc,
.)
if you remove the nuts you should be able to unscrew the whole post and remove the delrin insulator to inspect it.
The top should have an insulator and the 510 connection should also, under the screw. One of those is probably the issue.

 

[State O' Flux]

Some of the original authentic Veritas insulation (a whitish tube affair, so I understand) could get a little soft at temperatures generated by (I recall) resistances below 0.4Ω.
Might want to pull the center post and insulation and take a look at it. iHybrid (Fyre Fly) carries the brownish, nut type PEEK insulators... and thumbscrew upgrades.

 

[jpcwon]

Some of the original authentic Veritas insulation (a whitish tube affair, so I understand) could get a little soft at temperatures generated by (I recall) resistances below 0.4Ω.
Might want to pull the center post and insulation and take a look at it. iHybrid (Fyre Fly) carries the brownish, nut type PEEK insulators... and thumbscrew upgrades.

Thanks for the tips, guys. Mine is authentic, and does have the whitish insulator up top. I will try unscrewing the post and see what's what...I will report back once I have it out...

Thanks again!

 

[jpcwon]

Well guys, it looks like I fixed it!

All I did was I removed the positive post by unscrewing it from the bottom, inspected the insulator, and reinstalled it. I am now reading "OPEN" on my little meter!!! YAY!

Now the question is, what was causing the short!? Both insulators (in the 510 and up top) looked fine, so I honestly have no idea....but it seems to be fine now!

View attachment 361725

 

[State O' Flux]

Now the question is, what was causing the short!?

"Transient resistance". ;-)