Well I got the problem where the pin wasn't reading my aerotank mega so I tried to pry up the pin and ended up pulling it out.. now the red wire is still connected bUT it isn't reading anything. How would I go about fixing this? Obv some soldering will be required but just wondering if anyone has any experience with this specific problem or should I just get the 30w off vape nw for 40 bucks? Any input appreciated thanks guys
istick 20w problem.. Please help
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The one I recieved seemed to be authentic? I've been told all of their products are authentic unless labled otherwise, such as RDA clones.
i have had issues with my 20w and 50w isticks not reading atomizer...
I have found that by removing the atomizer and cleaning the connectors on both atty and istick, then checking (if adjustable) the post on the atty and adjusting it out slightly, (again, if adjustable) fixes it....
When my Kanger Subtanks have this issue, i just back them off, clean the connections and then reconnect slowly watching the readout on the istick, and when it starts reading, tighten slightly beyond to insure secure fit.
As far as pulling it out, i have never done that... not sure how you would fix it....
I have found that by removing the atomizer and cleaning the connectors on both atty and istick, then checking (if adjustable) the post on the atty and adjusting it out slightly, (again, if adjustable) fixes it....
When my Kanger Subtanks have this issue, i just back them off, clean the connections and then reconnect slowly watching the readout on the istick, and when it starts reading, tighten slightly beyond to insure secure fit.
As far as pulling it out, i have never done that... not sure how you would fix it....
VapeNW is legit. I bought all 4 of my sticks from them (2- 20W, a 30W, and a 50W). Never had any issues and they ship fast.
They show the 30W for $29.99
Shipping is $5, but they offer free shipping if you buy a bottle of juice.
If you are handy with a soldering iron, there were some guys over in the iStick thread who might be able to give you some advice on what you need to do:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/variable-voltage-apv-discussion/601111-eleaf-istick.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/variable-voltage-apv-discussion/601111-eleaf-istick.html
If you want to try to repair it, here's a video of the disassembly. Skip to about 15 min. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWd6tcKOab4
The grey stock insulator on my 20W had split in half allowing the pin to touch the case. So I took it apart and replaced the insulator with a silicone one from a KangerTech coil.
Then a short while after that my threads finally all stripped out so, I used a Fat Daddy Vapes 510 V4 connector.
An easy job if you like to tinker and the 30W was not available when my 20W broke.Since I paid way too much for the little 20W last year from a B&M, I fixed it instead of tossing it. It will not go below 1 ohm but I run it with a Kayfun @ 1.3 ohms all day long.
Today it is easier just to pick up a 30W or 50W unit.
Then a short while after that my threads finally all stripped out so, I used a Fat Daddy Vapes 510 V4 connector.
An easy job if you like to tinker and the 30W was not available when my 20W broke.Since I paid way too much for the little 20W last year from a B&M, I fixed it instead of tossing it. It will not go below 1 ohm but I run it with a Kayfun @ 1.3 ohms all day long.
Today it is easier just to pick up a 30W or 50W unit.
If it is still all apart and you can touch the pin to the positive post on your Aerotank while touching the ground threads to the top case, just hit the fire button once to get the iStick to read the ohms.
Sort of takes three hands to do it but that will tell you if the iStick is reading properly. If it still reads 0.1 ohm try another atty or it on another device to see if is not the Aerotank causing your problems.
Sort of takes three hands to do it but that will tell you if the iStick is reading properly. If it still reads 0.1 ohm try another atty or it on another device to see if is not the Aerotank causing your problems.
I think I read somewhere that powering down the iStick, plugging in the charger, then powering up again will sometimes fix controller issues. Worth a try anyway...
I'd buy a 30 anyway. I'm uncomfortable without a backup device and after trying the iStick I just can't see going back to my old ego batteries.
I'd buy a 30 anyway. I'm uncomfortable without a backup device and after trying the iStick I just can't see going back to my old ego batteries.
Just like out of the first picture I posted here, use a silicone insulator from the bottom of a Kanger coil to insulate the pin on your iStick.
Yes, since the Kanger one is silicone it will take a little heat. Unsolder the pin, put the insulator in the hole and work the pin back in then resolder the wire. It is a bit of a PiTA to do but will fix your problem for quite a while.
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