istick 30w + melo tank safety issues?

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Mojopie

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May 11, 2015
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Hi, I am new to this forum and I apologize if I should have come to a conclusion myself.
I realise there is a ton of information out there about sub-ohm vaping, but that is exactly the problem - there is too much, and a lot of it is conflicting.

I have been vaping on and off for 2 years now using ego-type. I was content with the taste and vapor with 1.8ohm and around 4v, but I have had a great deal of problems with tanks and batteries breaking.

So I decided to go istick 30w.

Now, I have absolutely zero knowledge when it comes to electricity, but the clerk recommended the melo tank as it was produced specifically for the mod and by the same company.

Now I realise that it is sub-ohm (0.5) and that it is a highly debated issue with very different and conflicting views. I am quite frankly scared ....less by all the horror stories about exploding batteries if not in the hands of professionals etcetera.

I hope someone with a better understanding would help me with the following questions, so I can sleep again.


1. Is my current setup in any way more dangerous than other setups?

2. I read that sub-ohming requires a vented battery but my istick 30w, which supposedly is built for sub-ohming, doesn't appear vented - the only holes I see are for the tank and for the charger. Should I be concerned?

3. The coils in the tank says: 0.5ohms 20-30w, does this mean I should stay within that range or can I go lower without any increased risk, for example 12w?
 

doots

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Aug 22, 2009
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1. Is my current setup in any way more dangerous than other setups? NO.

2. I read that sub-ohming requires a vented battery but my istick 30w, which supposedly is built for sub-ohming, doesn't appear vented - the only holes I see are for the tank and for the charger. Should I be concerned? DONT KNOW ABOUT ANY VENTING ON THAT MOD> ALL MODS SHOULD HAVE VENTING NO MATTER WHETHER SUB OHM OR NOT.

3. The coils in the tank says: 0.5ohms 20-30w, does this mean I should stay within that range or can I go lower without any increased risk, for example 12w? YES YOU CAN GO LOWER IF YOU LIKE.

GET SOME REST AND DO NOT WORRY!
 

Baditude

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Apr 8, 2012
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1. Is my current setup in any way more dangerous than other setups?
No. Maybe. Not likely. :unsure:

Aside from some reported issues specifically with the iStick 50 model (autofiring and spontaneous fires), I've not read of any similar problems with the other iStick models.

istick 50 watt exploded

Most APV's use external high drain IMR or Li-Mn chemistry batteries, which are safe chemistry. They are more tolerant to abuse and hot temperatures. They may vent hot gas during a battery failure but are not likely to vent in flames or explode.

Ego batteries, and those in mods like the iStick and MVP, use internal Li-Po batteries, which are NOT safe chemistry. When LiPo and ICR batteries go into thermal runaway they can vent flames and possibly explode.

A mechanical mod setup is the most dangerous setup because they do not have protection circuitry like a regulated mod has. Protection circuitry is designed to have the mod purposely fail to fire the atomizer and break the battery circuit when it detects a short circuit, an over-heated mod, battery reversal, and to prevent autofiring.

I find it alarming that some of the iStick 50 models' protection circuitry failed to prevent autofiring and spontaneous fires.

2. I read that sub-ohming requires a vented battery but my istick 30w, which supposedly is built for sub-ohming, doesn't appear vented - the only holes I see are for the tank and for the charger. Should I be concerned?
The iStick mods are designed to vent through the fire button.


3. The coils in the tank says: 0.5ohms 20-30w, does this mean I should stay within that range or can I go lower without any increased risk, for example 12w?
The 20 - 30 watt range is apparently what is recommended for their 0.5 ohm coil. You could use a lower wattage than that, but you may not have great results. Firing it below 20 watts would not increase the safety risk.
 
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