Ithaka Problems!

[seanyb]

Im kind of new to vaping (2 months or so) but I jumped in with both feet, quickly making the change from ego's to mods. I now own a Provari mini(variable voltage) and a Sentinel M16 by Grand Vapor(mechanical). I bought a RDA with the Sentinel and got into muti coil builds. Recently I bought the Ithaka RBA by GG and was really stoked until it didn't work...

The guy at the shop had built it the first time and used ribbon, resistant wire, and non resistant wire but it wasn't vaping like it should have been so I did the only thing and self respecting person could do: watched all the youtube videos I could find on the subject and attempted to duplicate the steps taken in my build. It turns out that the guy who designed it does not use all those different kinds of wire and so I set out to do it as he did, with silica wick and kanthal wire (28 gauge). No matter which build I tried I couldn't get the coils firing. The wires were heating at the base of the post where they were connected but not at the top of the wick where the coils were. After numerous tries I melted some of the plastic components that are associated with the wires and the post they connect to.

Now as I am waiting for replacement parts in the mail I am searching for answers as to why this was happening. Clearly there was a short, but the wires (positive and negative) were not touching so I don't see how. If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them as this was a pretty expensive atty.

Thanks in advance for your time

 

[Drhookerman]

Trail and error. When you have a short it could be numerous things, not just positive and negative touching. Without more information we can't really help you. By information we need to know what kind of batteries, ohm, wire, mods, rba (or rda), etc. Mainly we want to know what you did and on what devices before we can give you a BETTER answer.

If you have a provari you should've tried to test fire on it first before throwing it on a mechanical. Because if there is a short on your rebuild it would've let you know. Some people prefer using their VW/VV to test their ohm/short. I use a multimeter/provari and then when everything check out on 1 device I double check on other device and then I triple check on both.

 

[Izan]

Trail and error. When you have a short it could be numerous things, not just positive and negative touching. Without more information we can't really help you. By information we need to know what kind of batteries, ohm, wire, mods, rba (or rda), etc. Mainly we want to know what you did and on what devices before we can give you a BETTER answer.

uh.... Purple tacos!!!

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Op.
GG products require the use of BOTH resistance and Non-resistance wire. Please do much more research.

Good luck
I

 

[Drhookerman]

uh.... Purple tacos!!!

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Op.
GG products require the use of BOTH resistance and Non-resistance wire. Please do much more research.

Good luck
I

I do know that GG use both resistance and non-resistance but it doesn't change the fact that we still we information on what he did to provide more information

 

[seanyb]

When I put the Ithaka on my Provari it said E1 which means there is a short. Additionally I use Efest 500 batteries as well as AW 490

 

[seanyb]

Izan,
When I watched Imeo's videos he just used one wire on his coils. Same thing with this guy JC West on youtube. One wire that he said was rated at 1.2 ohms. I dont know much about wires, only that I have a spool of 28 gauge Kanthal and I cut pieces off according to how long they need to be... Like I said I'm really new to all of this

 

[Izan]

I do know that GG use both resistance and non-resistance but it doesn't change the fact that we still we information on what he did to provide more information

OP told us what he did...

" It turns out that the guy who designed it does not use all those different kinds of wire and so I set out to do it as he did, with silica wick and kanthal wire (28 gauge). "

OP was incorrect.
OP used ALL 28AWG resistance wire and NO non-resistance wire. Result was melted plastic pieces.

Good luck
I


GG info here

 

[seanyb]

How do I post all of that info at the bottom of my posts. In other forum sites it's an option in the profile area but I can't seem to find it here?

 

[seanyb]

OP told us what he did...

" It turns out that the guy who designed it does not use all those different kinds of wire and so I set out to do it as he did, with silica wick and kanthal wire (28 gauge). "

OP was incorrect.
OP used ALL 28AWG resistance wire and NO non-resistance wire. Result was melted plastic pieces.

Good luck
I


GG info here

Twisted Coils!!!!!! Thanks brother I appreciate it

 

[Glen Snyder]

How do I post all of that info at the bottom of my posts. In other forum sites it's an option in the profile area but I can't seem to find it here?

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/profile.php?do=editprofile

 

[seanyb]

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/profile.php?do=editprofile

Thanks brother. Apparently I have to have 15 posts first

 

[albcig]

people invented the zapper because of ithaca and odyseus. first time i hear someone building them without NR wire.

 

[RudeBoy007]

is this a possible alternative to having to 'splice' NR wire to resistance-wire? : Couldn't you take a length of Non Resistance wire, and just wrap a length of Resistance wire along a portion of it, like a double-helix, so the non resistance wire would have no interruption and would wrap around the wick along with the resistance wire? It makes sense to me that you should be able to do this, and thereby eliminate the need to twist it end to end or tie it where the resistance wire begins and ends.

 

[RudeBoy007]

I just did an experiment that answers my own question... Conclusion: if you try my idea of making a resistance - NResistance 'double helix', your NR wire will effectively become resistance wire, and get VERY hot VERY fast... DO NOT DO IT, unless you want a lot of heat where your battery post is (in this case melt your plastic screws)...

 

[RudeBoy007]

resistance wire - Non-Resistance wire double helix = parallel, 'spliced' = in series...

 

[Joe Tang]

snap some pictures of your ithaka

 

[CraftyZA]

You can grab some ready wires from the esmoke guru website or where I bought mine, from story vapor cellar
Ready Wire for Coils- Longer Length

Buy a few bunches, and it will last you for many rebuilds.

 

[urby2112]

You can grab some ready wires from the esmoke guru website or where I bought mine, from story vapor cellar
Ready Wire for Coils- Longer Length

Buy a few bunches, and it will last you for many rebuilds.

I use these all the time on my Ithys, have 8 of them lol. Use most the 3 ohm wires so with 2 coils 1.5 ohm. E1 is indeed a short. Check that the legs that run down the ceramic side attach to the part that snugs under the rubber o ring. The legs that go down the SS side go under the upper plastic nuts. 30ga wire seems to work best for me. As with any atty, check that your coils are spaced properly. One more thing, when wrapping the coils lay a small pin or straightened paperclip next to the wick and wrap around this then slide out after coiling. Otherwise if too tight you will choke the wicks. You should be able to pull the wick from side to side through the coils when it's right. Snug but not tight. I use 3mm silica or Eko, not cotton. Hope some of this helps. Think these are the best silica attys out there IMHO!