It's happened, the AQUA has been CLONED

[emus]

7. CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON

Cotton swells in a high humidity environment, in water and in concentrated solutions of certain acids, salts and bases. The swelling effect is usually attributed to the sorption of highly hydrated ions. The moisture regain for cotton is about 7.1~8.5% and the moisture absorption is 7~8%. [20]

Cotton is attacked by hot dilute or cold concentrated acid solutions. Acid hydrolysis of cellulose produces hydro-celluloses. Cold weak acids do not affect it. The fibers show excellent resistance to alkalis. There are a few other solvents that will dissolve cotton completely. One of them is a copper complex of cupramonium hydroxide and cupriethylene diamine (Schweitzer's reagent [11])

Cotton degradation is usually attributed to oxidation, hydrolysis or both. Oxidation of cellulose can lead to two types of so-called oxy-cellulose [12], depending on the environment, in which the oxidation takes place.

copied and pasted from here: COTTON FIBERS

Note it doesn't mention e liquid though.

I didn't say cotton fibers don't expand. I said my cotton wick doesn't swell.

The weight of the liquid may reduce cotton wick size in spite of expanding fibers. More than once I've had to tighten up a wick gone loose. The wick density plays a big role here. Approach the wick limit, say 2 hair sized fibers in your wick. One fiber 1/4" above the other. One drop of liquid and now wick has collapsed to size of maybe 3 hairs.

 

[dwcraig1]

I didn't say cotton fibers don't expand. I said my cotton wick doesn't swell.

The weight of the liquid may reduce cotton wick size in spite of expanding fibers. More than once I've had to tighten up a wick gone loose. The wick density plays a big role here. Approach the wick limit, say 2 hair sized fibers in your wick. One fiber 1/4" above the other. One drop of liquid and now wick has collapsed to size of maybe 3 hairs.

What is the ID of your coils?

 

[emus]

What is the ID of your coils?

I'm running 0.025 mm to 3/32" coils.
3/32" are the ones that go loose and I have to repack sometimes.
My cotton ball wicks are fluffy and wick much faster than cotton yarn.

 

[dwcraig1]

When going larger than 1.5 mm that type of problem happens more easily, have you tried 1.5 mm?
I'm taking that 0.025 mm as meaning 2.5 mm as that would be around 1/45" (super nano)
The surface tension of the liquid can fill most small sags in a true micro coil more easily than with larger ID

 

[KurrptSenate]

Just discovered there is a vape shop 3 minutes from my house. I was seriously like ...!?

Dude I met on here called me from the shop. I had him take some pictures, then come over to pick me up and go.

Wound up purchasing a nemmy clone even though one is being shipped to my house. Having the Aqua flush mounted; never knew it could feel this good.

The adjustable center post actually fits in the top cap threading of the caravela, but it's actually less room so no biggie. My Hcigar kayfun fits flush on the Hcigar caravela so I think they have their respective homes now.

 

[emus]

J Having the Aqua flush mounted; never knew it could feel this good.

The adjustable center post actually fits in the top cap threading of the caravela, but it's actually less room so no biggie. My Hcigar kayfun fits flush on the Hcigar caravela so I think they have their respective homes now.

My 23mm caravela top cap and hot pin is different thread size than aqua.

When going larger than 1.5 mm that type of problem happens more easily, have you tried 1.5 mm?
I'm taking that 0.025 mm as meaning 2.5 mm as that would be around 1/45" (super nano)
The surface tension of the liquid can fill most small sags in a true micro coil more easily than with larger ID

My smallest coil is 0.025". I already fixed something I noticed wrong in one pic that I didn't notice w/ bare eyes.

 

[dwcraig1]

I use a magnifier/light but macros is where I seem to see things I missed also.
Smaller than what I thought, so it wasn't a typo.

I thought KurrptSenate put his Neme 510 pin in his Caravela as it is the same thread pitch.

 

[emus]

I use a magnifier/light but macros is where I seem to see things I missed also.
Smaller than what I thought, so it wasn't a typo.

Oh, it was a typo but yeah it is getting almost too small to see

 

[Rictic]

Got my Hcigar Aqua clone from Vivid Smoke yesterday. Had to put it in my ultrasonic cleaner for 15 min with some Dawn and then soak it in Vodka for a few hours to kind of get rid of that plastic-y/ machine oil smell. Tried building dual micro coils with 29ga kanthal with cotton wicks. Not only did the ohms come out too high for my liking (about 1.4 ohms), but it still tasted like plastic, it didn't produce much vapor, and trying to get those coils attached was one of the bigger pains in the kaboose I've experienced since dealing with RBAs. And that applies to tank and dripping RBAs alike.

Today I took it apart, boiled the Aqua 3 times, gave it another soak in Vodka, and that got rid of quite a bit more of the weird smell. Wrapped 2 coils around 2mm ekowool; 7 wraps with 30ga kanthal which I know gives me about 1.8-1.9 ohms each. These coils were easier to attach to the Aqua (still kind of a pain but more bearable for sure) and they ended up metering at about 0.9 ohms. The 2mm ekowool fit perfectly in the juice channels; not too loose, not too tight. Getting much better vapor out of this. The flavor is still a bit wonky, but in my experience with RBAs I've decided to give these coils some time to break in. My AFC is open to where you can see about 3/4 of the holes, and I'm still experimenting with the juice control. No dry hits yet. Oh and I'm vaping it on my Pisces T mech with an 18490 AW IMR battery.

I think the weird flavor is coming from the red o rings and/or the middle bell attachment. I'm hoping with time that will go away, as it is not unvapeable at this point but it's preventing this particular Aqua from being a recommendable experience.

 

[emus]

Got my Hcigar Aqua clone from Vivid Smoke yesterday. Had to put it in my ultrasonic cleaner for 15 min with some Dawn and then soak it in Vodka for a few hours to kind of get rid of that plastic-y/ machine oil smell. Tried building dual micro coils with 29ga kanthal with cotton wicks. Not only did the ohms come out too high for my liking (about 1.4 ohms), but it still tasted like plastic, it didn't produce much vapor, and trying to get those coils attached was one of the bigger pains in the kaboose I've experienced since dealing with RBAs. And that applies to tank and dripping RBAs alike.

Today I took it apart, boiled the Aqua 3 times, gave it another soak in Vodka, and that got rid of quite a bit more of the weird smell. Wrapped 2 coils around 2mm ekowool; 7 wraps with 30ga kanthal which I know gives me about 1.8-1.9 ohms each. These coils were easier to attach to the Aqua (still kind of a pain but more bearable for sure) and they ended up metering at about 0.9 ohms. The 2mm ekowool fit perfectly in the juice channels; not too loose, not too tight. Getting much better vapor out of this. The flavor is still a bit wonky, but in my experience with RBAs I've decided to give these coils some time to break in. My AFC is open to where you can see about 3/4 of the holes, and I'm still experimenting with the juice control. No dry hits yet. Oh and I'm vaping it on my Pisces T mech with an 18490 AW IMR battery.

I think the weird flavor is coming from the red o rings and/or the middle bell attachment. I'm hoping with time that will go away, as it is not unvapeable at this point but it's preventing this particular Aqua from being a recommendable experience.

You can remove oils from metal with acetone. You might get away w/ a quick acetone sweep of the o-ring if it smells. Some rubbers release an odor for a few months like that new car smell. Perhaps a 170F bake inside a covered pan would drive the volatiles out.

Aqua is easy to build, just a different. There is a learning curve. Maybe somebody has a YT video?

 

[Rictic]

You can remove oils from metal with acetone. You might get away w/ a quick acetone sweep of the o-ring if it smells. Some rubbers release an odor for a few months like that new car smell. Perhaps a 170F bake inside a covered pan would drive the volatiles out.

Aqua is easy to build, just a different. There is a learning curve. Maybe somebody has a YT video?

Nice emus I'll give the acetone thing a try. I'm afraid to do that to the o-rings though; I'll probably just continue to boil those separately every time I want to practice my build on it.

I forgot to mention the quality of the Hcigar clone is pretty darn good. As far as threading and ease of adjustability with the red o-rings everything fits snug while maintaining a smooth glide when turning the AFC and juice control. I'd say the only problem is the initial smell and flavor. I'm optimistically hopeful it will eventually go away. And yeah of course as you practice the build should get easier once you find your method. For 40-something bucks I personally am not regretting the purchase, but if you want something that you can take out the box, do a quick build, pop some juice in and get a perfect vape off the bat.... not quite. YMMV

 

[st0nedpenguin]

if you want something that you can take out the box, do a quick build, pop some juice in and get a perfect vape off the bat.... not quite. YMMV

The originals aren't any better most of the time.

 

[Rictic]

The originals aren't any better most of the time.

Bummer.... sort of, lol.

When I got my SM KFL+ I put it through the ultrasonic cleaner once, just in case, built a coil, filled it up and was having a great vape pretty much off the bat. I know the Hcigar clone isn't a great deal less than a genuine one, and the cheaper ones on FT seem to be a gamble as far as quality and which clone version you're getting a month after you order it. I don't own a Kayfun clone, so I'm only speaking from what I've gathered.

If original Aquas are like you say, and they're triple the cost of the Hcigar clone I have, your comment makes me happy

 

[fjgotgame24]

Do your guys Aquas get pretty hot and fast too?

 

[VaPreis]

Rebuilt my Aqua clone this weekend for a little more gusto. Dual 2.2mm contact coils for a total of .45Ω, wicked with a cotton ball. Wicking perfect even when chain vaping it, and it never floods. Vaping a 60/40 blend.

I'm in love with this thing.

If it included a more civilized way to fill it, I'd darn near call it the perfect vape.

 

[vapdivrr]

Do your guys Aquas get pretty hot and fast too?

although I don't own the clone, my aqua stays virtually cold, there has been a few instances where I have felt some heat, this weirdly had seemed to coincide at times when I believe my wick was flooded. maybe because it was flooded I kept on chain vaping it to dry it out, this is the only time I felt any heat at all.

 

[BobC]

although I don't own the clone, my aqua stays virtually cold, there has been a few instances where I have felt some heat, this weirdly had seemed to coincide at times when I believe my wick was flooded. maybe because it was flooded I kept on chain vaping it to dry it out, this is the only time I felt any heat at all.

???? cold? what you using, single 2.5 ohm 32 kanth? My dual vertical 28 kanth @ .7 heats up the stock drip tip let alone the tank, but tastes & vapes great

 

[emus]

Do your guys Aquas get pretty hot and fast too?

No, my single coil Aqua cool to lukewarm except when I have autofire accidents.

I don't recall 0.6ohm dual coil aqua getting hot.

Sometimes Genny gets hot sometimes not; may have something to do w/ wick setup. Huge wet wick seems to cause more heat transfer to cap and deck.

 

[BobC]

Single coil not hot, but dual coil requires non metal DT

 

[emus]

Single coil not hot, but dual coil requires non metal DT

Doesn't sound right. I'd open the hood and have a look see.
Maybe a loose terminal, etc.