My iclear 30s wasn't performing to my taste so I decided to take it apart (assuming I had to buy a new one).
So far, I haven't heard of anyone taking it apart and putting it back together again.
Holding the base of the head on a vise, you can push the outer sleeve back and forth until it comes lose.
Just don't go too far or else you will push the inner tube and probably break it's base.
The inner tube is the biggest challenge. I partially broke the base of that tube but was able to put it back.
You must remove this inner tube (where the coils sit) because the coil wires are held inside of it by a silicone ring around a pin.
The coils themselves present several problems to replace.
First the original coils use resistance/non-resistance wire. I replaced them with simple 32 gauge kanthal.
This may eventually cause the little insulators that protect the coil legs to melt.
Second, positioning the coils is not a simple task.
I was able to get it to work with a dual coil at 1.3 ohms with nano-coils and cotton plus a silica wick on top of each coil for wicking.
It seems to be working reasonably well - no flooding or dry hits so far.
All in all, and considering that I am vaping on it again (flavor verdict pending), it was interesting to do but a major pain compared with rebuilding a Protank, for instance.
Note: A new head for an iclear 30s costs about 2.95 EUR, 5 heads for around 13 EUR.
So far, I haven't heard of anyone taking it apart and putting it back together again.
Holding the base of the head on a vise, you can push the outer sleeve back and forth until it comes lose.
Just don't go too far or else you will push the inner tube and probably break it's base.
The inner tube is the biggest challenge. I partially broke the base of that tube but was able to put it back.
You must remove this inner tube (where the coils sit) because the coil wires are held inside of it by a silicone ring around a pin.
The coils themselves present several problems to replace.
First the original coils use resistance/non-resistance wire. I replaced them with simple 32 gauge kanthal.
This may eventually cause the little insulators that protect the coil legs to melt.
Second, positioning the coils is not a simple task.
I was able to get it to work with a dual coil at 1.3 ohms with nano-coils and cotton plus a silica wick on top of each coil for wicking.
It seems to be working reasonably well - no flooding or dry hits so far.
All in all, and considering that I am vaping on it again (flavor verdict pending), it was interesting to do but a major pain compared with rebuilding a Protank, for instance.
Note: A new head for an iclear 30s costs about 2.95 EUR, 5 heads for around 13 EUR.
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I tried rebuilding a Kanger coil for my Aerotank but I guess I screwed it up somehow. After that I figured I'd just stick to my Kayfun & Russian clones and buy a few coils here and there.
