I ask this question with no response and finally figured I would take my digital multimeter and check. The battery with the button pushed came up a little over 3.7 volts, The 510 passthrough came up 4.12 volts. Both the battery and passthrough were from a joye 510. The ac charger for the same model came up at 4.20 volts. I don't know why I didn't do this in the first place instead of bothering the experts with the question. Sorry guys.
joye 510 voltage ratings
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No reason to apologize! Your posts have made me realize some truths about these various Li batts, and that is it seems they will all charge to about 4.2V, but the size of the batt, and thus the amount of batt material will dictate the lifetime before charging is needed. This is absolutely in line with what I understand from electrochemistry: the voltage depends on the material (Li-ion), and the amount of the material dictates how many electrons of that voltage will be delivered (mAh). Putting two batts in series will give twice the voltage (not 100% sure why, but this is the case), and so for a 5V device I am guessing there must be an internal resistor to pull it back from a possible 8.4V to 5V.
Not all the "experts" know everything about voltages, so posted realizations like this are definitely of value! Very good to see someone relatively new here getting out the meter and making measurements!
Not all the "experts" know everything about voltages, so posted realizations like this are definitely of value! Very good to see someone relatively new here getting out the meter and making measurements!
To be honest with you.. these numbers don't really mean all that much. The "loaded" voltage is what you're interested in. In other words, how many volts are delivered to an atty.. when the atty is actually installed.
Example: typically a 510 battery (or PT with an in-line battery) will deliver between 2.9 and 3.1V to the atty. I've never seen one deliver more than that.. not even an eGo/Tornado.
Example: typically a 510 battery (or PT with an in-line battery) will deliver between 2.9 and 3.1V to the atty. I've never seen one deliver more than that.. not even an eGo/Tornado.
You know when someone admitted to committing a crime such as this, we used to take them out, tie them to a tree and whip them. Then we had a few that it became habitual, they were confessing sometimes 20 times a day. We then realized they liked it, so we stopped. So consider yourself lucky......or maybe unlucky. Depends on whether you like it or not. 
Joking of course!
Joking of course!
Scottbee, why then does my PT stop producing vapor when the batt is around 3.5V? I'm measuring the batt directly, not the voltage at the atty (not sure how to do that). Those two will not be the same voltage, due to the resistance of the coil, I take it? Still unsure about the electronics.
TIA!
Kurt,
I'm going to assume that it is a voltage drop due to the switching circuitry in the handpiece and some voltage drop due to the cord.
I was surprised and annoyed to see that the PT voltage was that low too.. but there's no fighting the readings of a good Fluke meter with a 2.5 Ohm fixed load.
Kent-C lent me one of his Bartleby's which just showed up about an hour ago (Thank you Kent.. you are a good man!). It delivers a true 3.75V to a 2.5 Ohm load. The difference in the vaping characterstics when compared to a standard 510 battery, PT, or even the eGo.. is DRAMATIC.
I'm going to assume that it is a voltage drop due to the switching circuitry in the handpiece and some voltage drop due to the cord.
I was surprised and annoyed to see that the PT voltage was that low too.. but there's no fighting the readings of a good Fluke meter with a 2.5 Ohm fixed load.
Kent-C lent me one of his Bartleby's which just showed up about an hour ago (Thank you Kent.. you are a good man!). It delivers a true 3.75V to a 2.5 Ohm load. The difference in the vaping characterstics when compared to a standard 510 battery, PT, or even the eGo.. is DRAMATIC.
Thanks! Now you have convinced me entirely that I need to get a Bart. Have been wrestling with PTs that seem unable to recharge their batts anymore, but work well with 10440's charged on an external charger. What you say here makes sense, although I don't think I can measure voltages with such loads with my meter (sperry DM-5300), just either volts of power sources, or ohms of the atty coil, but you may well know something I don't about this meter or how to do it.
So I guess you too would recommend the Bart?
To measure loaded batteries I had to make my own gizmo. It's pretty simple, just 2.5 Ohms of stable 10W resistors and an atty connector (coupled to a speaker terminal thingie just to make it easier to hook the meter onto it). Screw the battery on, press the button, and read the voltage. No magic. Your meter could read it just fine.
I'm so torn on this Bart thing. LOVE the vape..... hate the aesthetics. Swore that I would never carry a mod... yet here I am. Even the eGo was a tough decision due to the increased diameter.
I'm so torn on this Bart thing. LOVE the vape..... hate the aesthetics. Swore that I would never carry a mod... yet here I am. Even the eGo was a tough decision due to the increased diameter.
My interest in the Bart was almost purely as a reliable PT. I find the PS PT to look like a light saber...kinda cool but way over the top. The 510 PT has the size I want but is unreliable it seems, although I'm going to open one up and see what is up. Probably a broken wire from the USB port. If someone could make one with good components, it would be a winner in my book. My work revolves around computers and while mine were working they were perfect. Compared to other batt mods, the Bart seemed to be the most economical in size and showiness.
Kurt,
Here are a couple of pics of the load tester that I made form 510 style batteries. It is gross overkill for what we are doing since the wattage ratings on the resistors are quite high. But.. it is what Rat Shack had on the shelves that particular day. The resistors are 4x 10 Ohm units in parallel.. giving an effective final resistance of 2.5 Ohms.
Here are a couple of pics of the load tester that I made form 510 style batteries. It is gross overkill for what we are doing since the wattage ratings on the resistors are quite high. But.. it is what Rat Shack had on the shelves that particular day. The resistors are 4x 10 Ohm units in parallel.. giving an effective final resistance of 2.5 Ohms.
Scottbee: Oh, my! Impressive, and thanks for the pics! Probably more than I am willing to build for myself just now. But it does seem fairly straight-forward. You are simply replacing the coil with a comparable series of resistors, and measuring voltage on either side of them when a batt is attached to the threads and activated...at least that's what it looks like. And it looks like you had to cut the atty apart, maybe with a pipe cutter, and removed the bridge and coil entirely. Nice work, and I'm sure others will find this useful too.
Kurt,
Your analysis is spot-on.
I keep my "expired" atties for stuff like this.. making testers or adapters.
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