Jumpy Ohms

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Gentle Smoke

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Own a vaporesso Armour Pro, running ceramic coils. coils are spec'd at 0.3 ohms. When the mod was new, seemed to be pegged at 0.29. These days I jump around from 0.29 to 0.33 (and it does this by just rebooting the battery). Yes its not a lot but, it does make a big difference in heat output. So, I'm writing to hear your thoughts on why this occurs. PS: I've dropped the mod so many times I can't remember.
 

greek mule

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Yes its not a lot but, it does make a big difference in heat output.

At regulated devices resistance is irrelevant,so the ups and downs of resistance readings can't produce more heat.Only set higher wattage does,decreased airflow etc.
After mod dropped few times it is possible you damaged a o-ring of your coil and it doesn't make a good connection.Fix or replace coil.Also might damaged 510 connection of your mod.
 

bombastinator

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At regulated devices resistance is irrelevant,so the ups and downs of resistance readings can't produce more heat.Only set higher wattage does,decreased airflow etc.
After mod dropped few times it is possible you damaged a o-ring of your coil and it doesn't make a good connection.Fix or replace coil.Also might damaged 510 connection of your mod.
It’s possible he’s using some variable power setting that adjusts power according to ohms. That would do it anyway, though it may or may not be what is actually happening.

The whole reboot thing suggests an intermittent wire break or crack somewhere. The old thing might have taken one too many knocks to the head.
 

bombastinator

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Thanks for your thoughts. I'm running temperature control. When it reads 0.29, I have to raise the TCR to an unreasonable amount to get adequate heat. 0.31-0.32 seems to be more appropriate for TCR settings.
I’ve had that happen on several vapes with temp control. It’s why I stopped messing with temp control at all until I moved to replay. The DNA mods don’t seem to do it though so on the mods that do have replay replay is less needed. I wonder why? Maybe there’s a solution to be found by messing with arctic fox. Iirc artic fox is one of the reasons the armor pro is well thought of.
 

Punk In Drublic

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Replay is a feature strictly on DNA 250C and 75C devices. It’s not really temp control, more like “preferred vape” control.

Artic Fox is an aftermarket firmware that can be installed on certain Joytech, Wismec and Eleaf devices. Cannot be used with Vaporesso.


The Ccell coil uses Stainless Steel as the heating coil. The resistance of SS will increase with heat. This is how a TC determines what temperature your coil is operating at. With some devices it is important to lock the resistance at room temperature. This gives the device a base line in which to operate.

With the Vaporesso, go into your TC or TCR settings, you will see a Lock/Unlock feature. While the coil is at room temp, remove the atomizer and screw it back on. This will force the device to re-read the resistance. Now without firing it, go into the TC/TCR settings and lock the resistance.

To add – once the resistance is locked at room temperature, adjust your TCR to your preference.
 
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CasketWeaver

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Replay is a feature on the new DNA series chips. It’s kind of like an automatic transmission for TC. Disadvantage is it can’t tell if your wick is dry so you still risk dry hits. It’s tons simpler to deal with though

I've only had issues with burning after I came out of "Replay" and adjusted the watts. I understand that it can't tell if your wick still has juice on it, but it's supposed to "replay" the hit(s) you've taken on a freshly juiced wick / coil. If I'm not fumbling around with the device in my pockets, I don't risk having it come off its settings too often. Is it perfect? No, but it definitely gives you a warning when your cotton is drying out - as seen with reduced vapor production and flavor changes. Then again I do use a base 316L material profile (brought over from my DNA-200). It does seem to work well with N80 / KA1 (Nichrome-80 / Kanthal A-1) coils, but manages to disable 'Replay' features when those are slapped on - even without changing the Material Profile.

Then again, I also use BETA International Firmware and various themes as I was having "Throttle" issues with the 250C chip a week or so after I bought the device.
 

bombastinator

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I've only had issues with burning after I came out of "Replay" and adjusted the watts. I understand that it can't tell if your wick still has juice on it, but it's supposed to "replay" the hit(s) you've taken on a freshly juiced wick / coil. If I'm not fumbling around with the device in my pockets, I don't risk having it come off its settings too often. Is it perfect? No, but it definitely gives you a warning when your cotton is drying out - as seen with reduced vapor production and flavor changes.
This was my experience as well.
Then again I do use a base 316L material profile (brought over from my DNA-200). It does seem to work well with N80 / KA1 (Nichrome-80 / Kanthal A-1) coils, but manages to disable 'Replay' features when those are slapped on - even without changing the Material Profile.
[I’d only tried it with full TC wire. I don’t normally mess with Ni80. I didn’t start building until after kanthal came out. The only TC wire I’ve used is SS as well because I didn’t mess with TC while Ni and Ti were dominant.
Then again, I also use BETA International Firmware and various themes as I was having "Throttle" issues with the 250C chip a week or so after I bought the device.
I use the international firmware on my therion too. For one it’s the only way to get replay on a therion, but the US firmware is supposed to suck for other reasons as well. Terrible battery life was one of them though I’m still not much impressed by my current battery life on the therion. It has become a MTL only device for me.
I also get terrible battery life from the DNA75c. The replay was awesome though. The 250c was supposed to be better and in any case I needed more battery to DL in replay so I wound up with a couple of DNA250c squonks which ruined my budget. Shineyitis is a terrible mistress. I later discovered that unlike TC on anything else I’d ever used EVOLVE TC on the 250c just works. The replay became extraneous.
 
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CasketWeaver

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This was my experience as well.
I’d only tried it with full TC wire. I don’t normally mess with Ni80. I didn’t start building until after kanthal came out. The only TC wire I’ve used is SS as well because I didn’t mess with TC while Ni and Ti were dominant.
Then again, I also use BETA International Firmware and various themes as I was having "Throttle" issues with the 250C chip a week or so after I bought the device.[/QUOTE]
I use the international firmware on my therion too. For one it’s the only way to get replay on a therion, but the US firmware is supposed to suck for other reasons as well. Terrible battery life was one of them though I’m still not much impressed by my current battery life on the therion. It has become a MTL only device for me.[/QUOTE]

I use whatever I have available at the time - some days I also want to test old wires I've wrapped with newer devices. That's why the Ni80 and KA1. As for the Therion, I have no idea about it. I don't notice a Battery Life issue on a Triade. I will say for sanity's sake though, I don't like where Evolv is going with their chips. I know my old DNA200 Vapor Shark never had an issue holding a charge while being unused. My Triade - if I don't use it for a day or so after a full charge, when I come back the batteries have apparently somehow lost a volt or two. So the indicator will say 98% when fully charged... when I get back from not using it (maybe from ions settling or some other wizard magic when it comes to battery chemistry) it'll be down to 90% or lower. Even when nothing's plugged into it.

As for TC wires - I strictly only use 316L. I don't dabble with Ti01 or Ni200 anymore. I have ran replay with spaced coils, contact (micro) coils, nano coils, and super nano coils. All have the had the same results - fire it, take a fat rip, and see if I like it, if I like it, hit replay. If not, chooch again and try again.
 

bombastinator

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Then again, I also use BETA International Firmware and various themes as I was having "Throttle" issues with the 250C chip a week or so after I bought the device.
I use the international firmware on my therion too. For one it’s the only way to get replay on a therion, but the US firmware is supposed to suck for other reasons as well. Terrible battery life was one of them though I’m still not much impressed by my current battery life on the therion. It has become a MTL only device for me.[/QUOTE]
I use whatever I have available at the time - some days I also want to test old wires I've wrapped with newer devices. That's why the Ni80 and KA1. As for the Therion, I have no idea about it. I don't notice a Battery Life issue on a Triade. I will say for sanity's sake though, I don't like where Evolv is going with their chips. I know my old DNA200 Vapor Shark never had an issue holding a charge while being unused.
Agreed. It seems to be an electronics industry wide issue. It’s getting harder to innovate lately
My Triade - if I don't use it for a day or so after a full charge, when I come back the batteries have apparently somehow lost a volt or two. So the indicator will say 98% when fully charged... when I get back from not using it (maybe from ions settling or some other wizard magic when it comes to battery chemistry) it'll be down to 90% or lower. Even when nothing's plugged into it.

As for TC wires - I strictly only use 316L. I don't dabble with Ti01 or Ni200 anymore. I have ran replay with spaced coils, contact (micro) coils, nano coils, and super nano coils. All have the had the same results - fire it, take a fat rip, and see if I like it, if I like it, hit replay. If not, chooch again and try again.
That’s how I do it. Every time I tried to use a TC system in the past I got weird anemic vaping. People would talk about adjusting ramp time and downloading alternate profiles and I decided it just wasn’t worth it.
When I read about Replay I thought it would solve my issues no matter what, so I waited for months and spent at least a third more than I had ever spent on a mod on the therion. It worked. The DNA75c ate batteries like they were Cheezits though. So I did the same thing again, and bought a VTX200 squonk. I was happy as a cat in a sock drawer till I broke the screen on the damn thing. I had a shineyitis moment complaining about the issue on this site and wound up ordering an even more expensive Drone 250c. Shineyitis is a terrible mistress. Anyway while messing about with the drone I discovered that normal TC on it DID just work without all the rigamorole, and I’ve been using it ever since, the replay more or less forgotten.
 
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