RTA Ohm's too high message

[tromboneking]

I am running into issues with my Dead Rabbit RTA where it's says that the Ohm's are too high. I've not had a chance to switch mods but if I remove and put the tank back on (and select the lower resistance option, around 0.36-0.38), it still says that the ohms are too high.

I've had it since Saturday and it's been working fine. I did re-wick it last night and it worked for a few hours without any issues. I'm running about 0.29-0.3 premade coils on a smok G-Priv 2 at 70 watts.

Not sure if re-seating the coils would help as they don't appear to have moved. Could it be that the coils did move and are touching the internal cap and shorting out? The wick ends come to the top of the juice openings and tucked ever so slightly into them. Could it be that they are too short?

Sorry, I'm a new with RTA's and haven't built much with the RDA.

 

[mimöschen]

If the coils were touching the chamber, ohms would be too low, not too high.
That means you're facing a connection problem.
Check if the screws of the deck are tight.
Don't forget to check the 510 pin on the bottom of the tank as well.

Some mods don't make a proper connection, because the spring in their 510 connector wears out over time, or is too short from the start. So try your tank on a different mod.

 

[tromboneking]

If the coils were touching the chamber, ohms would be too low, not too high.
That means you're facing a connection problem.
Check if the screws of the deck are tight.
Don't forget to check the 510 pin on the bottom of the tank as well.

Some mods don't make a proper connection, because the spring in their 510 connector wears out over time, or is too short from the start. So try your tank on a different mod.

Thanks! I'll check those when I get home.

 

[tromboneking]

One of the deck screws had gotten loose. Thanks mimöschen!

 

[vaper1960]

and select the lower resistance option, around 0.36-0.38

What does this mean?

 

[vaper1960]

About the 510 connection... One of my mods has issues with short 510 pin on tanks. Solution is to add a "heatsink" adapter between the mod and tank (ordering a couple myself... will try to post the link... and they are cheap!)

 

[tromboneking]

What does this mean?

I use regulated mods and some of them allow me to choose the resistance or update the resistance. If I use the tank and the take it off and the put it back on the mod, the resistance changes and gives me an option to select.

 

[Punk In Drublic]

I use regulated mods and some of them allow me to choose the resistance or update the resistance. If I use the tank and the take it off and the put it back on the mod, the resistance changes and gives me an option to select.

And that change could be due to the rise in resistance of the metal. All metals in which we use for a vaping coil rise in resistance with heat. Some more than others. Kanthal and Ni80 rises very little, so little it barely registers. Stainless Steel however, rises quite a bit, but not as much as Titanium and Nickel.

All coils should be read at room temperature. If the coil is hot when resistance is read, then it's resistance is off and your mod will be calculating the incorrect voltage for your applied wattage.

 

[DaveP]

I use regulated mods and some of them allow me to choose the resistance or update the resistance. If I use the tank and the take it off and the put it back on the mod, the resistance changes and gives me an option to select.

If your resistance is changing, then you have a connection issue. You should be able to remove and replace the tank and get a reading that's repeatable within acceptable tolerances.

Assuming that your deck screws are tight and holding the coil properly, you might want to check the mod's 510 connection and the 510 male thread on the atomizer itself. Gunk builds up on the 510 threads and can cause resistance rise over time. Usually a paper towel wrapped around the male 510 will clean the threads as you hold it in place and rotate the atty. USe your thumbnail to get into the recessed part of the threads. Stuff a twisted paper towel in the female thread and twist to get the gunk out.

 

[Mordacai]

Even better for cleaning 510 pins on atomisers is an old stiff toothbrush, as it'll get in all the nooks and crannies.

But if you're resistance is bouncing around too much it needs to be disassembled, cleaned and reassembled. Toothpaste and a toothbrush will do the job nicely, as the abrasives will remove corrosion/oxidation and you get a lovely minty freshness as well.