Just another ECF n00b

[Paul Siorai Waldorf]

Ohai, been lurking here for as long as I've been vaping (about a year or so) decided to register today to find out what all the fuss was about (and send my thanks to the various threads and members providing information I've used in my journey into vaping).

Started off with an iTaste MVP, moved into sub ohming a few months ago, loving it. Love love loving it. How's everyone else doing out there?

 

[Mellowbuzz]

Welcome to the (active) community!

What part of the world are you in, if you don't mind me asking? What kind of hardware are you using now?

 

[Paul Siorai Waldorf]

My current rig is a Fuhattan carbon wrap with an atlantis tank, though I switch to my patriot clone with a 0.15 sleeper with A1 Kanthol 22 gauge when I step outside. All powered by MXJO 35A

Currently I have a 4nine clone of unknown make, that I own as a back up, and keep my trusty iTaste MVP in my backpack just in case.

I mainly had questions about how far I can push my builds since I just got some 20 gauge wire today. So I'm trying to figure out just how low I can go, and look for some good recommendations on builds to toss on my Stillaire v2 (infinite clone)

Edit: Oh. And I'm from San Diego.

 

[Rat2chat2]

to ecf Paul Siorai Waldorf . So glad to have you here. Bit congrats on the vaping for a year. That is wonderful. Continued success. Have fun and make yourself at home. . .

 

[Diver9543]

Welcome to the inter-workings of the world. I've been vaping for about a year and a half myself. Never ventured beyond pre-made hardware, so I lost you when you started talking about your gear. Anyway, have a good day and keep on vaping.

 

[Susan~S]

Hello and welcome to the forum. Glad to have you here!

My current rig is a Fuhattan carbon wrap with an atlantis tank, though I switch to my patriot clone with a 0.15 sleeper with A1 Kanthol 22 gauge when I step outside. All powered by MXJO 35A

Your battery is only rated 20A CDR NOT 35A as printed on the wrapper. 35A is the "pulse" rate. So you are already exceeding the CDR of your battery.

If you are chasing clouds, pay attention to this next bit.

SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT

With a mechanical mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to build a new coil. With a high vv/vw regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button. On a mechanical mod your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit.

A high vv/vw mod is a lot more versatile than a mechanical mod (not to mention safer, less upkeep, etc). The beauty of a high vv/vw mod is that you don't have to build low sub-ohm coils to get a great vape. In fact, building low sub-ohm works against you. Higher ohm coils use more wire which means more surface area to vaporize juice. This increases both heat and vapor production.

With a mechanical mod you increase the warmth of your coil by building lower ohm coils. However, the electronics in a regulated mod boosts the power coming from the battery so the ohms of the coil no longer control the warmth.

Here's a good thread on the subject: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...

Also check out State-O-Flux's blog on the "Steam Engine": Steam Engine: From Basic Use to Advanced Features

I mainly had questions about how far I can push my builds since I just got some 20 gauge wire today. So I'm trying to figure out just how low I can go, and look for some good recommendations on builds to toss on my Stillaire v2 (infinite clone)

Since you appear to be new to mech mods and/or rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery experts) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.

Baditudes Blogs. The blogs that address battery safety, Ohm's Law, CDR (continuous discharge rating/Amps) and how they all work together are detailed below:

BATTERIES

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics

 

[Wolfenstark]

Hello and Welcome Paul Siorai Waldorf

 

[Paul Siorai Waldorf]

Hello and welcome to the forum. Glad to have you here!



Your battery is only rated 20A CDR NOT 35A as printed on the wrapper. 35A is the "pulse" rate. So you are already exceeding the CDR of your battery.

If you are chasing clouds, pay attention to this next bit.

SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT

With a mechanical mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to build a new coil. With a high vv/vw regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button. On a mechanical mod your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit.

A high vv/vw mod is a lot more versatile than a mechanical mod (not to mention safer, less upkeep, etc). The beauty of a high vv/vw mod is that you don't have to build low sub-ohm coils to get a great vape. In fact, building low sub-ohm works against you. Higher ohm coils use more wire which means more surface area to vaporize juice. This increases both heat and vapor production.

With a mechanical mod you increase the warmth of your coil by building lower ohm coils. However, the electronics in a regulated mod boosts the power coming from the battery so the ohms of the coil no longer control the warmth.

Yeah. My gear list is -quite- a bit longer than I listed there. I am by no means an expert when it comes to this sort of thing, but I've slowly but surely been becoming aware of the rewrapping nonsense that seems to be happening everywhere. I measure all of my builds on a fairly regular basis too. Pay close attention to the temp of my batteries, etc. I lurked here for a long time before I even attempted any of this stuff. As far as the 20A/35A of the MXJO's, I don't continuously fire them at the 0.15 ohm that I run from time to time, it's a bit too much. Usually only for half a second or so.

I currently carry 8 of the MXJO's and rarely let em drop below even 3.8-3.9 volts before swapping em out. (xtar's VC4 quad bay shows voltage instead of a %, which I really like, though I still carry a multimeter as a backup).

It's dangerous stuff, that's for sure. But I try to take every precaution. All that being said, I've just been using my Altantis for the last week or so, before I order in some new batts, and I'm thinking about picking up a bunch of the Samsung 25R's since it would seem those would work the best for my use?