Just another mech thread

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edyle

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Hello my fellow vapers!

So first things first, I am quite a seasoned vape enthusiast.
I have been vaping for nearly 2 years and building what I consider to be relatively advanced coils for quite some time now, I also consider myself experienced with ohms law.
I use only good quality, genuine batteries (vtc 5's and Samsung 25r's only) and I like to think my battery safety is pretty good ( I visual check my batteries regualrly and check them with a DMM also, if in doubt I retire the batteries just to be safe).

I am looking at taking the next step in my vaping and would like to explore the wonder of mechs!
This is purely from a durability / simplicity / user serviceability / curiosity point of view.
I know what you're thinking (DONT DO IT!!! YOULL BLOW UP AND DIE AND YOUR HEAD WILL FALL OFF AND THE vaping COMMUNITY WILL IMPLODE BECAUSE OF YOUR SELFISH ACTIONS).
In all seriousness, can anyone give me some good tips?
I'm not going to be building super low, .4 / .5 probably, as I don't want to over stretch the amperage of my batteries.

Any good pointers? I want to do things as safe as possible and take my time with it, I'm quite looking forward to learning some new things and experimenting with it all.

Sorry for the essay and thank you in advance for any advice :)
MV

I've been using my vtc mini exclusively since I got it a few months ago, but before that I used my mechs with kick modules for almost a year with no problems.
Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of kick modules (if any) that will support a 0.5 ohm load.

One thing you will likely find on most mechs compared to regulated mods, is a rock solid 510 connection with adjustable centerpin.
 

MattyVigilante

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I've been using my vtc mini exclusively since I got it a few months ago, but before that I used my mechs with kick modules for almost a year with no problems.
Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of kick modules (if any) that will support a 0.5 ohm load.

One thing you will likely find on most mechs compared to regulated mods, is a rock solid 510 connection with adjustable centerpin.
I had looked into kicks, but as you say I couldn't really find anything that would protect as low as I'm looking to build. That being said, quality batteries, solid builds, ohm checking, proper maintenance and constant vigilance with regards to battery safety and I'm confident I can use mechs safely. Just need to be patient, cautious and take my time :)
 

edyle

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The king and chiyou are very similar and compatible, and spare chiyou topcaps, bottom caps and kick tubes are available on fasttech, so I have a supply of those;

One thing that can be annoying with mechs is when you have several mechs but the parts are completely incompatible because of different threading.
 

r055co

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I dove into the Mech rabbit hole due to what our glorious government with Big Tobacco is going to do to Vaping. It was going to only be my fail safe, well low and behold I really am loving Mech's. My first was the Noisy Cricket, awesome little beast. Since then I've got two of them, two Parallel Mech's and a 26650 tube. I enjoy the purity and simplicity of them.

Anyway I'm very OCD with battery safety, the physical and staying well within the actual CDR of them. I also stick with Sony and Samsung for my 18650's and "Mooch Approved" Basen for my 26650's. I only get them from reputable sources like Liion Wholesale. When ever I build I will break in my builds on one of my regulated Mod's before putting on my Mech's.

It's actually very simple, build high for series Mod's and low for parallel.
I do .5 on up with my Series Mod's, normally build around .8 or 1 Ohm. Then between .15 - .35 with my parallel Mod's. With my Tube Mod with a single 26650 I usually stick around .2 - .3 since my CDR on my battery is 25 Ohms

An extra step I do recommend is as I mentioned above is to test on a regulated Mod, play it safe and you'll enjoy.
 

Hitcat44

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Don't be too "freaked out" abut going lower than 0.5-0.4 AS LONG AS you use Authentic VCT4 or LG HE2 or HG2 Batts.
Per Mooch (resident ECF Battery Master-Sensei), those have absolutely Zero Issues and present Zero Safety concerns up to 20 Amp continuous.
A 0.25 Build on a Mech with fully charged Batt (4.2V) will draw 16.8 Amps when hittin' it. NOT an Issue.

IF you want to use a Mech in 18490/18500 Config, then I definitely suggest staying at 0.45 or above. That will draw 9.33 Amp which is within safe range of a good 15A Rated (which is about all the absolute best of these can be) AND Proven 18490/18500 Batt.

Ultimately and in the end, use Genuine-Mooch tested & proven Batts and check Steam-Engine religiously every time and Mech Vape away.

Enjoy and all the best to ya :thumb:
 

MattyVigilante

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Don't be too "freaked out" abut going lower than 0.5-0.4 AS LONG AS you use Authentic VCT4 or LG HE2 or HG2 Batts.
Per Mooch (resident ECF Battery Master-Sensei), those have absolutely Zero Issues and present Zero Safety concerns up to 20 Amp continuous.
A 0.25 Build on a Mech with fully charged Batt (4.2V) will draw 16.8 Amps when hittin' it. NOT an Issue.

IF you want to use a Mech in 18490/18500 Config, then I definitely suggest staying at 0.45 or above. That will draw 9.33 Amp which is within safe range of a good 15A Rated (which is about all the absolute best of these can be) AND Proven 18490/18500 Batt.

Ultimately and in the end, use Genuine-Mooch tested & proven Batts and check Steam-Engine religiously every time and Mech Vape away.

Enjoy and all the best to ya :thumb:

Thanks for the info there, really useful!
Another quick question which I have asked of a few trusted vape friends of mine but I always seem to get an ambiguous answer. "When should I swap my battery out?" Answer: "You will just know..."
I don't want to be taking my battery out to check the volts on my DMM every 20 minutes, is there a sure fire way? Or is it just as the vape diminishes?
 
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edyle

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Thanks for the info there, really useful!
Another quick question which I have asked of a few trusted vape friends of mine but I always seem to get an ambiguous answer. "When should I swap my battery out?" Answer: "You will just know..."
I don't want to be taking my battery out to check the volts on my DMM every 20 minutes, is there a sure fire way? Or is it just as the vape diminishes?

Nothing wrong with checking every 20 minutes when you start out with unregulated volts, but you soon develop a feel for it.

4 volts at 0.5 ohms gives about 30 watts
3 volts at 0.5 ohms gives about 20 watts
You'll notice the difference.
 

MattyVigilante

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Nothing wrong with checking every 20 minutes when you start out with unregulated volts, but you soon develop a feel for it.

4 volts at 0.5 ohms gives about 30 watts
3 volts at 0.5 ohms gives about 20 watts
You'll notice the difference.
Yeah that's kind of what I figured, I will be checking it after every hit or 2 the first time iI use it so I can get my bearings with it all, I just meant on a regular day to day basis :)
 

edyle

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I had looked into kicks, but as you say I couldn't really find anything that would protect as low as I'm looking to build. That being said, quality batteries, solid builds, ohm checking, proper maintenance and constant vigilance with regards to battery safety and I'm confident I can use mechs safely. Just need to be patient, cautious and take my time :)


Oh; re kicks, there is the colibri; one review I read, the user said he used a 0.35 ohm coil.
Awesome little Mod. - Colibri Styled Mechanical Mod: FastTech

but it, and the spare pcb boards seem to be discontinued on fasttech.
 
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tj99959

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    I had looked into kicks, but as you say I couldn't really find anything that would protect as low as I'm looking to build. That being said, quality batteries, solid builds, ohm checking, proper maintenance and constant vigilance with regards to battery safety and I'm confident I can use mechs safely. Just need to be patient, cautious and take my time :)

    Ya know it's kinda funny. I've been using mechanicals for over 5 years, and the lowest build I do is 1.8 ohms.

    I tried all the super low ohms stuff, and it's not a damn bit better.
     

    MattyVigilante

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    Ya know it's kinda funny. I've been using mechanicals for over 5 years, and the lowest build I do is 1.8 ohms.

    I tried all the super low ohms stuff, and it's not a damn bit better.
    I build at either .4 or .5 ohms, its just where I feel the vape quality ticks all the right boxes. I have built much lower and it wasn't for me, I have built higher and that didn't hit the spot either.
    Different strokes for different folks I guess :)
    Life would be boring if we were all the same ;)
     

    Kprthevapr

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    That's awesome, without delving into the "politics" of clones, do you think that the quality of genuine can be replicated by clones (in a very generalised way)?
    For the most part yes. Most, over 90% of my mods are clones, because I can't justify spending the money on authentic's. I do shop around for the best quality clones though. If I have to wait for the kinks to be worked out, I do. Reading the discussions on FT will teach ya a lot.
     

    Bad Ninja

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    That's awesome, without delving into the "politics" of clones, do you think that the quality of genuine can be replicated by clones (in a very generalised way)?

    Yes. Surpassed in some cases.
    KPR and I have over 80 mechs (both clones and authentics), and probably 25lbs of atomizers.

    Many clones are made in factories on much better equipment than a small modder could afford.
    Many times they are better than the authentics.

    Most people don't buy authentics because they perform better or are better made, because they aren't and they don't.

    They buy them due to collectibility and to have a legitimate item from the innovator that created it.
     

    Bad Ninja

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    Thanks for the info there, really useful!
    Another quick question which I have asked of a few trusted vape friends of mine but I always seem to get an ambiguous answer. "When should I swap my battery out?" Answer: "You will just know..."
    I don't want to be taking my battery out to check the volts on my DMM every 20 minutes, is there a sure fire way? Or is it just as the vape diminishes?

    Seriously,
    You will know on a .5 ohm build.
    You'll think something is wrong and then realize it's the battery.
    Lol
     

    Chips177

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    I build at either .4 or .5 ohms, its just where I feel the vape quality ticks all the right boxes. I have built much lower and it wasn't for me, I have built higher and that didn't hit the spot either.
    Different strokes for different folks I guess :)
    Life would be boring if we were all the same ;)

    It's like grandaddy used to say, "if every man liked the same thing, they'd all be climbin on top of Grandma"
     

    beckdg

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    That's awesome, without delving into the "politics" of clones, do you think that the quality of genuine can be replicated by clones (in a very generalised way)?
    Not "in a very generalized way".

    In short, sometimes the clone is heads and tails better quality than the authentic.

    Do your research. Get to know the details of the gear you want. Check out reviews, gather information, etc..

    You'll figure out what's a good buy and what's not... and whether the clone is worse, as good or addresses the inherent flaws of the authentic.

    Tapatyped
     
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    beckdg

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    It's like grandaddy used to say, "if every man liked the same thing, they'd all be climbin on top of Grandma"
    :blink:

    Pretty sure grandaddy would prefer it not to be grandma at this point also.

    That may better be phrased using a newer model as the target.

    In some circles, granddaughters, daughters and sisters are frowned upon as lovers. So still the potential for the same "moral" of the story.

    :pop:

    Tapatyped
     
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