Just For LM2596 Users

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BJ43

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I have been using the LM2596 for a long time and really enjoy using it. I also drive a Ford and not a BMW. Many look down on my Ford and on my little green, blue, or red rectangle. I only know basic electronics and over 50 years ago built a Heathkit amplifier and swore I would never again. I do not enjoy building electronics but do enjoy the mechanical building and designing of the box mods. I marvel at the ability of the electronic wizards and the wonders they create to improve my daily life not to mention the advances in over 50 years as a commercial pilot and aeronautical engineer.

The LM2596 has made it possible for me to enjoy a new hobby and its capacity to perform outdoes my vaping capacity.

For the many of us that also enjoy this little wonder, being for price (cheap in price only), or ease of use, I start this thread so we can put our experiences here. Those who look down on our inefficient battery guzzler please stay out. I enjoy my Expedition more than my wife's BMW. My Expi has taken me places the BMW can't, my LM2596 has taken places some of the high priced can't, (10v vaping at 5 ohms). Best $2.17 I ever spent.

The LM2596 is my recommendation to all newbi's that want to get into VV and have limited electronic knowledge...
 

BJ43

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TomCatt

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Excellent thread BJ!

It's amazing that you can get the 'brains' for a VV mod for less than the price of one of the voltmeters or even the box to put it in.
I've been vaping on my LM2596 mod for a while now and I don't vape at high watts, 6-8 usually. At this level 2 Trustfire 14500s last me all day.
I have a couple of the 4050 boosters and an 8100 from TI. While, with all the great how-tos here, wiring the resistors and caps seems straight forward, they're still in their packaging while I have a couple of LM2596 mods going. Maybe one of these days when I have some spare time :rolleyes: and am bored, I'll do a mod with one of them. Until then I'm perfectly happy with my LM2596 modules.
 

Quigsworth

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Hmm, maybe chatter but the 2 holes are drilled through...pic's worth a 1000 words...

View attachment 73963

and there's continuity between pin 5 and these holes, I think you're right, prepped for a low current on/off control setup, they just don't provide instructions on how to do it, would have been nice...
 
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chatter97

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I have the exact same board, bought the 5 pack, they were dirt cheap for like one day(cheaper than normal). I am an amateur at electronics and was not sure if they were wired for continuity. I just know they sell a couple other converts and thought that maybe they might have a need for a board with the same circuit design that had six pins instead or had something that they might have to wire in there for a different setup.
 

alekos557

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I am a complete amatuer at wiring. I have been using simple MadVapes and radio shack switches.
Though I have found some really nice million click switches from the monkey box guy...but he is out.
They are all momentary switches, but that's all I know.
I am going to try a fit the circut into these.
groove 001.jpg finger groove 001.jpg
The one in the second picture will have a 5ml bottle and 2 each 14500s, so I have plenty of room.
 

BJ43

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Hmm, maybe chatter but the 2 holes are drilled through...pic's worth a 1000 words...

View attachment 73963

and there's continuity between pin 5 and these holes, I think you're right, prepped for a low current on/off control setup, they just don't provide instructions on how to do it, would have been nice...

IMG_1176.jpg

Here you can see the two holes in the back. This is my favorite goto PT in 3AA box...
 

BJ43

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On lm2596 you have pin 5 on/off pin.If you able to modify that PCB, and put 220K pull up resistor from pin 5 to + (off mod), you may use a small switch to pull down to GND that pin (on mod)

like picture:

So if I solder the 220k between pin 1 and one of the holes then a mini NC switch in the other hole to ground it should work...

Why does it show a R2=330K and you say 220K??
 
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alekos557

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Yes chatter97, they are routed out of a block of wood. Can't afford to buy the expensive ones. (The dark colored one is from CleverWood.) The others are Poplar, just using what I can get cheap right now until I get the hang of it. I mainly build bottom feeders for myself, but a bottom feeding VV would be cool. But only if it feels good in the hand, and it must be tough. And going through the metal detector with no beeps is always good.
 
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