Ford Escort or BMW? They're not even in the same league. If you want to add a Kick and end up under $100, get a Bolt. If you want a first class quality mod, get the SB.
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Ford Escort or BMW? They're not even in the same league. If you want to add a Kick and end up under $100, get a Bolt. If you want a first class quality mod, get the SB.
The battery for 4.8 is a NiMh battery. Kallies customs has them. You can't use a regular Li-Ion charger. I'm not sure what charger you use because it's not a standard sized battery for a NiMh. It's actually a battery pack made from 4 little 1.2V NiMh batteries. There's probably a modded NiMh charger on Kallies site that'll accept them, or at least they'd know where to get one. The other option is something like a Maha C777 universal charger. You'd have to get that one on ebay, because it's been discontinued. It'll charge any shape of any NiMh, NiCad or Li-Ion battery.
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I got a bolt when I exchanged an ego 5v I didn't like. I still mostly use the riva outside. The bolt feels good in my hand. If it breaks, I'll probably get a yellow SB with a 6 month mechanical failure warranty. i saw a picture of the new bolt model, guess they improved the button.
I respect most of your advice sailorman.
and I hate to be one of "those guys" but if you are honestly looking at a SB and a kick, why not just buy a provari and stop worrying? Sorry, had to say it.
People don't buy Darwins, they just stare at the web pages that say out of stock and day dream. I'm sorry but their production supply to demand ratio is absurdly pathetic that I refuse to recommend or even consider the Darwin as a suitable option for anyone. They can bite me. Provape got my money. If I broke my provari beyond repair today Provape would get my money again, because they are an actual business and not ambitious hobbyists with no real business plan. You can buy a provari today and be satisfied forever, or you can stare at your empty hand and wish for a darwin. Choice is yours.
I got a bolt and I love it.just ordered an ego tank adapter for it. I keep looking at the provari, still trying to justify the price
The first Bolt didn't last long, about 4 or 5 clicks of the button and it was dead. They sent out a replacement and this one works fine. I've been considering a Lavatube for my next mod though.
I respect most of your advice sailorman.
I wouldn't necessarily use a kick with an SB. A Bolt with a Kick is over $100 cheaper. For the price of a Provari, one could get a Bolt w/Kick AND a SB. When the Provari, the Bolt and the Kick are all dead, the SB will still be chugging on.
The only real problems with the Bolt are the price difference between it and the genuine SB it tries to emulate and the cheapass button they don't even pretend is as bulletproof as the button on the SB.
If you can get a Bolt for $40, and you can, it's not a bad deal. But to pay $60 or more for a Bolt when an SB is $85 is ridiculous. The Bolt uses a $2 horn button. The SB, besides being built better overall, uses a commercial grade, vandal resistant, 200,000 electrical/ 1,000,000 mechanical cycle button, modified to last 600,000 or more electrical cycles. My Baby Bullet, which has the same button, has at least 350,000 cycles on it, has never stuck or misfired, and operates and feels like new. And, I won't even go into the superior contacts and quality of the thread machining on the SB & BB.
If you can get a Bolt for $40, and you can, it's not a bad deal. But to pay $60 or more for a Bolt when an SB is $85 is ridiculous. The Bolt uses a $2 horn button. The SB, besides being built better overall, uses a commercial grade, vandal resistant, 200,000 electrical/ 1,000,000 mechanical cycle button, modified to last 600,000 or more electrical cycles. My Baby Bullet, which has the same button, has at least 350,000 cycles on it, has never stuck or misfired, and operates and feels like new. And, I won't even go into the superior contacts and quality of the thread machining on the SB & BB.
If you hurry, you can get a limited edition, Stainless Steel, V-Tube kit from apollo for $52 with coupon code "Reddit".
The stainless V-Tube is super nice. It's been redesigned with new encaps and head and it's solid stainless, not painted or clad. If I had a few extra bucks, and didn't just buy a V-Tube a couple weeks ago, I'd be all over it myself. There's no better deal on a sub $100 VV out there right now.
I'm not quite ready for a VV mod right now. I'm perfectly happy with a 3.7v mod with a 1.5ohm cartomizer in my tank. I was looking for nice, long battery life. Charging my ego every 4-6 hours was getting on my nerves. I'm not sure if the issue I have now is with the Bolt unit itself or the batteries.
I'll get excellent, warm vapor production with a fresh battery, after about 2 days the vapor production was minimal and not warm so I figured I needed to charge the battery, but the indicator light on the charger stays green. The only thing I wish the Bolt unit had was a battery indicator light.
I'll get excellent, warm vapor production with a fresh battery, after about 2 days the vapor production was minimal and not warm so I figured I needed to charge the battery, but the indicator light on the charger stays green. The only thing I wish the Bolt unit had was a battery indicator light.
Sounds like the issue is the charger. Do you have a multimeter? You need to be able to check the voltage of the batteries. A simple multimeter costs less than $10 or so. It's mandatory for checking your PV, batteries, cartos, charger or anything.
You really need to make sure the charger is o.k.. You don't want to let the batteries over-charge or leave them on the charger much past when they're fully charged. If your over-charge protection fails, the batteries could overheat and catch fire or explode or something ugly.
It's best to re-charge the batteries as often as possible. They'll last longer if you don't wait until they start getting weak or cutting off by themselves (I'm assuming they're protected. If not, and they aren't IMR, don't use them at all). Please do something about that charger asap. Unless you're a pretty light vaper, an 18650 or 18350 battery shouldn't last you too much more than about a full day. So, with 2 days use, there's a chance you might be running them down below what is good for them. Not necessarily to the dead minimum, but probably a bit too low. That's another reason you should get a meter, so you'll get a feel for where they really are as you're vaping. Then you won't need a battery indicator light. It's best not to let them drain below about 3.5 volts.
But please, do something about that charger. That is not a good situation and could even be dangerous.
You really need to make sure the charger is o.k.. You don't want to let the batteries over-charge or leave them on the charger much past when they're fully charged. If your over-charge protection fails, the batteries could overheat and catch fire or explode or something ugly.
It's best to re-charge the batteries as often as possible. They'll last longer if you don't wait until they start getting weak or cutting off by themselves (I'm assuming they're protected. If not, and they aren't IMR, don't use them at all). Please do something about that charger asap. Unless you're a pretty light vaper, an 18650 or 18350 battery shouldn't last you too much more than about a full day. So, with 2 days use, there's a chance you might be running them down below what is good for them. Not necessarily to the dead minimum, but probably a bit too low. That's another reason you should get a meter, so you'll get a feel for where they really are as you're vaping. Then you won't need a battery indicator light. It's best not to let them drain below about 3.5 volts.
But please, do something about that charger. That is not a good situation and could even be dangerous.
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I understand the batteries can be dangerous. They are protected. I've only had them for maybe 2 weeks and I've only charged the batteries a few times each. Maybe a faulty charger? Although I've always thought there was something wrong with the electric system in this apartment, chargers get really hot when they're plugged in. I'll put a multimeter on the shopping list.
for anyone interested in the bolt, a lot of websites have the nicer chrome and gunmetal bolts for 30 or less.im assuming they're trying to unload them before a new anodized bolt or something comes out ..anyway really cheap..i just ordered the chrome w a chrome button for 26..gonna use an 18350 w a kick..cannot wait! its like a tube darwin for the poor guys lol ...the bolt and kick cost less than an sb!!!!! woooohoooo
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