Kamry k200, anyone have one yet?

[JeremyR]

You may need to drain the memory. Pull battery Hold the fire button for ten seconds then put the battery back in. It should light up right away with full battery and default settings... Click fire button 3 times should show resistance, click it again should show battery voltage click again for puffs. Does it read an atty and voltage on battery?

What resistance?

What kind of battery?

You will need a standard resistance coil. I believe there is a 2.5 amp limit which will prevent it from firing if resistance and voltage are
Too low/ high. A 1.5 atty may not fire - at 3.7 volts its about 2.5 amps.

Check this link

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...xZLVd5aDkwUEJEZXc&f=true&noheader=false&gid=1

 

[100%VG]

@ Beeznuts614

This is a 2.5 Amp Max device. If you do something that tries to pull more Amps than this, it will lock up. This is what I think is a design flaw. You have to remove the Battery for more than 20 minutes to Reset it. 10 Minutes might work, but more than 20 does. I'd put a freshly charged, fully charged battery in after that time. It should come back to life.

The K200 is really meant for Flat Top IMR batteries. If you put in a Button Top, it will cram the (+) post up out of reach. Mine did this, so it would only work on Button Tops after that, and not my Flat Tops. It is also supposed to use IMR Batteries, and not regular Li-Ion. A Protected Li-Ion is even longer, and will push the (+) pin up inside even further. The IMR Battery can safely output 4X its rating, where the Li-Ion can only safely output 2X. What this means is that my Panasonic IMR 2250's can safely output 10 Amps, where a regular Li-Ion 2250 could only safely output 5 Amps.


@JR

Part of your limitations are the K200, and part of it might be the cheap batteries that shipped with it.

Yes, they sent me a replacement. It's working OK, but I had to understand its limitations. This took some Research. You will only reach 15W on a 2.5 Amp device with a 2.4Ω Atty. Here's how it works...

Watts = Volts * Amps.
Amps = Volts / Ohms.

Therefore, substituting (Volts / Ohms) for Amps...

Watts = Volts * Amps
Watts = Volts * (Volts / Ohms). 6V * (6V / 2.4Ω) = 15 Watts.
This happens at 2.5 Amps with 2.4 Ohms. You can verify that by 6V * 2.5A = 15W. There's no other way to get there!

If your K200 is stopping at 5.3V, this may be due to the Battery not being charged enough, not having a high enough Output Rating, or the ohms being miscalculated, or a combination. Or it could be in the K200's DC to DC Converter. The Converter takes that Battery Voltage and boosts it up to 6V (or it's supposed to). Then, a Modulator cycles that 6V On and Off to simulate DC in the level that the VV is set to. If it cannot reach 6V, the implication is with the Battery, but it could also be with the Converter, or Both, along with the Ohms being miscalculated. We already know that the K200 will not go all the way Down to 3.0V, so it would be no big surprise it couldn't go all the way Up to 6V.

5.3V * (5.3V / 2.3Ω) = 12.21 Watts (so you are not reaching 15W). This would be drawing 2.3 Amps. If the Ohms are really 2.1Ω, this is slightly over 2.5 Amps, and there's the limitation of 5.3V.

So what I gather you are saying is that when you try to set the Voltage higher than 5.3V, it quits working, or just doesn't get any Hotter. What mine did was Lock-Up like Beeznuts614's did.

This could mean that the K200 is not calculating the atty ohms correctly, so it tried to run it at a calculated ohms (of 2.3Ω or whatever), but it's really lower (like 2.1Ω), so it cannot work right at the set Voltage, because it draws too much Current, and shuts Off. It's not uncommon for the ohms to be slightly miscalculated by 0.1Ω or even 0.2Ω, but the K200 might be worse about this.

If you want to know what the Max Voltage is that you can run a particular atty ohms, Multiply 2.5 Amps times your Atty Ohms. You might need to get a decent Multimeter. Get one that will Auto-Zero when the leads are shorted together, or one that has a Zero Button.

Volts / Ohms = Amps. Therefore, Volts = Amps * Ohms.
Therefore, 2.5 Amps * 2.3 Ohms = 5.75 Volts. You should be able to use up to 5.7V if the Ohms are 2.3Ω.

If the Ohms are correct, this 5.7 Volts will not overrun the 2.5 Amp limit of the K200. However, your 5.3V Max implies the Ohms are really 2.1Ω, and therefore, you reach the 2.5 Amp Limit.

I have a 2.4Ω Coil going in an AGA-T2. I can crank it to 14W (haven't pushed it to 15W), but it still isn't getting hot enough to develop Flavor. This implies the K200 itself is limiting the Voltage, the Current, or Both. That's on VW.

However, I had been vaping my Cinnamon Red Hots with a VV Device at 4.3V on a 2.1Ω Coil with great satisfaction. That's only 8.8 Watts. For a 2.4Ω Coil, this would be ~4.6V. Even setting my K200 to 5.2V, I still can't get the Flavor I want. It just gets Harsh. I really don't know if this is the K200, or the AGA-T2, the Kanthal, and the SS Mesh. I need to get my VTube back before I'll be able to compare. The VTube is also a 2.5 Amp Device, but it has a 10-second timeout, rather than this 5-second timeout, and it's much more efficient.

I hope this helps you understand how a 2.5 Amp Device works.

This is why I want need a Vamo V3. It's a 5 Amp Device. So is the V2, but the V3 has an OLED Screen.

 

[Trick]

I have one. However, it does not fire. Brand new out of the box a week ago and I got it to fire like 5 times and then nothing.
The display shows a battery with 1 bar even though the batteries are fully charged. All other functions on the mod work perfectly.
So, all sizzle and no steak. Maybe someone else has an idea on this???

Beez -- mine has started doing the same thing. No matter how charged up the battery is when I put it in, within a puff or two the K200 is saying it's dead. The battery will work fine in any other mod, but the K200 thinks it's got a low charge.

I've pretty much written the mod off as dead at this point.

 

[JeremyR]

Mine is still working fine, and the finish is holding perfectly, im pleasently surprised. I have had no issues with it not Firing. Hasn't missed a beat for me actually was just say that's what I noticed. But it's not a problem at all for me. I'm saying I think the amp limit itself drops. The last few days I'm running a 3.2 ohm protank and its been hitting really well. I got to 299 puffs and was like woah. 3.7 left in battery, changed it quick and it saved all my settings and puff count, also showed full charge too. It seems like if you don't hit the battery dead point you don't have to reset it.

Overall I have been very happy with it. It's been working great for me.

 

[100%VG]

Beez -- mine has started doing the same thing. No matter how charged up the battery is when I put it in, within a puff or two the K200 is saying it's dead. The battery will work fine in any other mod, but the K200 thinks it's got a low charge.

I've pretty much written the mod off as dead at this point.

Maybe you guys missed that part of my post below. If your atty ohms are lower than 2.4Ω, and you set the Voltage too high, your K200 display that the battery is dead, and/or it will simply lock up after working for just a few puffs. This is because the atty is trying to draw more than 2.5 Amps at the set Voltage.

Reset your K200, read your atty ohms with the K200, subtract 0.2Ω (to adjust for error correction), then multiply that number by 2.5A. For instance, if your K200 says the atty is 2.6Ω, subtracting 0.2Ω would be 2.4Ω. Multipling 2.4Ω by 2.5A = 6V. This would be the perfect atty that could actually reach 15 Watts. But in all likelihood, your atty is lower, and maybe much lower.

For example, if your atty was actually 1.5Ω, then 1.5Ω x 2.5A = 3.75V Max. Therefore, the Max Voltage you could actually set for this atty, without drawing more than 2.5 Amps, which will display the discharged battery or lock it up, is 3.7V. Setting the Voltage at 4.0V will try to draw 2.67 Amps. You simply cannot do this on the K200.

So remove your battery for more than 20 minutes to reset the K200, read your atty ohms with the K200, subtract 0.2Ω (because the K200 reads high in some), multiply that by 2.5A to get the Max Voltage, put in a freshly charged battery, set the Voltage at this or less, and see if your K200 works reliably. It should work fine, just maybe not to your liking, but it's a 2.5 Amp Device. And remember that you cannot exceed this Voltage without problems on your K200. Most other Mods will simply not work when you exceed the Amp Limit, and maybe give some kind of error, but the K200 shows the battery rapidly discharging, and/or locks up.

If you want to get anywhere near 15 Watts, you'll absolutely have to get a 2.4Ω atty.

Lets say you have a 3.0Ω atty. 3.0Ω x 2.5A = 7.5V Max, and you cannot get there. 6V on a 3Ω atty will give you 12 Watts, and that's it. If you use VW to attempt more than 12W, you'll likely have a problem.

A 2.4Ω Coil is optimum for any 2.5 Amp Device, when trying to reach higher Watts.

 

[JeremyR]

Your 100% correct 100..

I was able to get my puff counts to 980 by making sure to change the battery at 3.7 before it flashes! it seems to work better if you do. Was trying to get to 999 to see what happens but accidently hit a button changin the battery. Seems if you push any buttons when changing battery it will reset the puffs. I get about 260 puffs like this off the kamry batts, about 12 hours @ 3.0 ohms. About 7 sec puffs and full clouds. I am finding that it, like a lavatube v1, works better around 3ohms. I am getting better clouds with a 3.1 ohm closely spaced/ touching coil; Over a 2.5 ohm standard wrap. The 3 is about 9 wraps of 32 on 4 mm wick.

Yeah the 2.5 ohm I tried today, i ended up spiking it out. And I'll say this again the 3 ohm preforms a lot better. And I'm only running it at about 4.3 volts. It's crazy but it must be the "micro coil"/ closely spaced/ touching coils, whatever you want to call it. Outperforming the 2.5 by a long shot.

Keeping the k200 within its limits, and it should perform fine. Try a 3 ohm it's a lot better than you think. I see no need for 2.4 or lower anymore.

 

[100%VG]

Your 100% correct 100..

I was able to get my puff counts to 980 by making sure to change the battery at 3.7 before it flashes! it seems to work better if you do. Was trying to get to 999 to see what happens but accidently hit a button changin the battery. Seems if you push any buttons when changing battery it will reset the puffs. I get about 260 puffs like this off the kamry batts, about 12 hours @ 3.0 ohms. About 7 sec puffs and full clouds. I am finding that it, like a lavatube v1, works better around 3ohms. I am getting better clouds with a 3.1 ohm closely spaced/ touching coil; Over a 2.5 ohm standard wrap. The 3 is about 9 wraps of 32 on 4 mm wick.

Yeah the 2.5 ohm I tried today, i ended up spiking it out. And I'll say this again the 3 ohm preforms a lot better. And I'm only running it at about 4.3 volts. It's crazy but it must be the "micro coil"/ closely spaced/ touching coils, whatever you want to call it. Outperforming the 2.5 by a long shot.

Keeping the k200 within its limits, and it should perform fine. Try a 3 ohm it's a lot better than you think. I see no need for 2.4 or lower anymore.

Glad you are Zeroing In on what works for you. I bought 28g and 30g Kanthal, and I'm now going to get some 32g and even 34g, just for that kind of setup. The Bigger the Kanthal diameter, the longer it takes to develop Heat, and with the 5-secong timeout on the K200, I'll need it to heat up more quickly. I have not as yet been able to get a 2.4Ω Coil going with 30g, because it keeps popping the top wrap, and there's not enough room for 30g to wrap more on this AGA-T2. With 32g and 34g, I can get to the ohms I want in less wraps, and it will heat up faster.

The Higher the ohms of your coil, the longer a battery charge will last - at the same Voltage setting. You'd have to time your Puffs to see if you're really getting 7 seconds. The K200 is supposed to have a 5-second timeout. My VTube has a 10-second timeout, which I like a lot better. There may be things that are different in the K200 Flat Top model you found. For whatever reason, it is performing well for you, and that's a Home Run.

What do you have a 4mm Wick in? That's a Big Bertha Wick, my friend. I've heard of people drilling out a wick hole to 1/8 inch, but that's only 3.175mm. My AGA-T2 has a 2.5mm wick hole that I have not modified (though I've been considering it). It accepts a 3/32 inch wick nicely, with very little wiggle room, and no Juice leaks getting past the gap under normal use. I'd also be interested to know which Tank you are using.

 

[JeremyR]

Well no, mine is a 10 second cut off. I'm getting some excellent clouds. More vapor with the 3.1 10 wrap at 4.2 than the 2.5. The coil heats up really quick when the coils are so close they're nearly and some are
Touching

I have never had to leave battery out to reset. If I just touch the fire button while changing the battery it resets. And As long as it doesn't trip the battery flash when its to 3.6 or over amped; it saves everything, shows full with the new battery and doesn't need to be reset.

4 mm silica wick in Stock protank, 4 stands Of 1 mm - it fits perfectly. I prewrap the coil really tight on this mini screwdriver I have which fits the 4 mm of wick perfect. Right now I'm rocking 10 wraps of 32 at 3.1 ohms and 4.2 volts all day. Really big clouds not crazy sub ohm clouds but more than enough to satisfy anyone.

Here's an example of one I took a pic of a while back, its an 8 wrap on 4 mm silica. I'm doing even tighter wraps with 10

This is how I run my protank most the time keeps the wicks nice and wet with no leaks. Running loose but works so much better. Leaks less than tight actually. I just finally figured out the cotton wick and have been rocking it a couple days and its working awesome.

 

[100%VG]

Well no, mine is a 10 second cut off. I'm getting some excellent clouds. More vapor with the 3.1 10 wrap at 4.2 than the 2.5. The coil heats up really quick when the coils are so close they're nearly and some are
Touching

I have never had to leave battery out to reset. If I just touch the fire button while changing the battery it resets. And As long as it doesn't trip the battery flash when its to 3.6 or over amped; it saves everything, shows full with the new battery and doesn't need to be reset.

4 mm silica wick in Stock protank, 4 stands Of 1 mm - it fits perfectly. I prewrap the coil really tight on this mini screwdriver I have which fits the 4 mm of wick perfect. Right now I'm rocking 10 wraps of 32 at 3.1 ohms and 4.2 volts all day. Really big clouds not crazy sub ohm clouds but more than enough to satisfy anyone.

Here's an example of one I took a pic of a while back, its an 8 wrap on 4 mm silica. I'm doing even tighter wraps with 10

This is how I run my protank most the time keeps the wicks nice and wet with no leaks. Running loose but works so much better. Leaks less than tight actually. I just finally figured out the cotton wick and have been rocking it a couple days and its working awesome.

Cool Jewel. Your K200 is better than mine on the timeout. I've often wondered if mine is a true Kamry device, or a copy. Who knows, but I wish I had seen your Flat Top version (and Vendor) before buying the one I found. I like that look a lot better.

I've read some complaints about the ProTank. Without going into them to bias what you might say, I'd like to ask if you have any issues with it at all with it. I really need a good Great glass tank design that's dependable, and without issues. If it's a really Great tank, I could live without a 510 Drip Tip. I've rebuilt Vivi Nova Heads, so it wouldn't be much different on a ProTank. But my VN has a Plastic Tube, so I don't use it at all anymore.

I have found that Plastic will leach something into even Unflavored 100% VG juice and taint the Flavor rather quickly, and it can also taint the color of the juice. I cannot tolerate PG, even in a small %, so I can't speak to PG and Plastic. Unfortunately for me, this means not even PG-Based Flavorings. I didn't realize that Plastic was what caused problems in the VN until I got a Plastic Tube Carto Tank, but it does the same thing, so there's something about Plastic that is unfriendly to even plain 100% VG., At least Mine, or maybe it's because my VG might be synthetic (from the Price, I think it might be). But it works well in Glass. Therefore, I feel that Glass is my only option.

Is that some kind of adapter, or an Air Flow controller underneath the ProTank? Sounds like you're using it to help with Leaks. I missed that before. Or is it the black top cap thing? What is helping with Leaks?

 

[JeremyR]

I'm a 100% vg vapor too.

Lol that is the protank base!

I have the tank unscrewed that much!

And it preforms better than ever leaks less also. It is temperamental in any configuration. It's working great after using the t3 for months I know how to make these work good. They (protank) are good I like the pro2 but I'm concerned about not being able to unscrew the tank. For some reason they work better the pressure is stabilized for some reason.

The black cap is an 801 rubber whistle tip cut off to fit it, because the metal tip hits my teeth too much.

Bottom coils are the way to go with 100 vg I think. But I do cut with water, I'm sure you do..

Discount vapes has some other glass bccs that are like the pro 2. I'm looking for a true rebuildable bottom coil like the oddy but the no res wire thing is a hassle. And the kayfun clone is too small...

On the timeout you'll just have to feather it at 4 seconds to keep it going. That sucks your is like that it seems those angled tops are the ones with the problem. I believe they are version one of it and the flats are Version 2.

 

[100%VG]

Interesting Stuff.

And BTW, I found that my K200 actually does have a 10-second timeout. The 28g and 30g take so long to heat up, I lose a fair amount of Vapor. I do double-hit it sometimes, but I have all but quit using it.

@ the ProTank... There's something of a "copy" of it called the Puritank (and maybe others). It comes with pretty crappy heads, but it can take both ProTank and EVOD Heads, so you can get the Air Draw you like. ProTank for More Airy, EVOD for Less. It has a Glass Tank, but it will accept a 510 Drip Tip, so you can get something you'd like, rather than having the metal bang on your teeth.

The only place I've seen it for sale is in a Group Buy (Co-Op), but there are several Reviews. It's funny about these things. Some people say they leak, others say they don't. You say the ProTank leaks. Some say the Puritank leaks on a ProVari. I'm like, Why on a ProVari and not other things? So I decided not to get one just yet. Some people say that not letting the ProTank or Puritank get less than 2/3 Full will stabilize the Vapor, and help prevent Leaks. But then I'd only have a 1ml tank. Others have said that after the Silica Wicks get well broken in, they stop leaking and the 2/3 thing is done.

There are just too many variables for me to get involved. If you think you're interested, I can send you the link to buy one. I bought a Glass Vision V-Fate Nova - 3.5ml to try today. It's a Glass version of the Vision Vivi Nova, with a metal shield around the glass, and this one can use Single Coil and Dual Coil Heads. The Vivi Nova is a long-term proven design, so I decided to try it. The only place I've seen it so far it MVS. I also bought a SS Vamo V3 from MVS today. My order has already shipped. WOOT!!!

Gotta go.

 

[JeremyR]

What type of coils do you run at what ohms. Today I'm at 3.5 ohms on a micro partially touching coil and its pumping out vapor at only 4.3-4.5 volts. Only 5-5.7 watts by calculations and it vapes like 8-9 watts. Micro is the way to go. Twist that 30 to 8-10 wraps and you'll be surprised.

 

[100%VG]

What type of coils do you run at what ohms. Today I'm at 3.5 ohms on a micro partially touching coil and its pumping out vapor at only 4.3-4.5 volts. Only 5-5.7 watts by calculations and it vapes like 8-9 watts. Micro is the way to go. Twist that 30 to 8-10 wraps and you'll be surprised.

I'm going to order some Kanthal from a different supplier in 32g and 34g, and some SS Mesh from a different supplier. I've been given great lines on both. The 29g I bought is too big to fit enough wraps, and I knew that 28g would be, so I didn't buy any, but I really thought the 30g would let me get to where I wanted to be. I can get to ~2.3Ω on a 3/32 inch SS Mesh Wick, but to date, I have not been able to actually achieve above 1.8Ω because the top wrap keeps popping. I wrap them pretty close, but not close enough to actually touch.

As I recall, you're on Silica Wicks. It's different with SS Mesh. Close wraps? Well yes, I do that; I have to. But you also have 4mm to work with. I have 3/32 inch, which is slightly less than 2.5mm. That means much less wire in the coil. My problem seems to be a combination of the SS Mesh I bought, and the Kanthal I bought. A friend wrapped his Kanthal on a used Coil of mine. I don't know what Gauge it is, but it is still going after at least two weeks now. The AGA-T2 is very Touchy, because the Center Post is not as Stable as it should be, so it still develops Hot Spots frequently. It could be the AGA and it could be the SS Mesh. So far, I've been able to work out the Hot Spots with his Kanthal.

I know what you mean about a higher ohm coil. I have used 3Ω Cartos in a Glass Carto Tank at 5V. That might seem like High Watts to you, but Cinnamon Red Hots needs higher Watts to develop Flavor. This was in a 5V Box Mod, so I couldn't adjust the Voltage, but the Vape was pretty good. My problem with Cartos is that they Leak through their 510, and the Boge Cartos change ohms too fast, only lasting about 3 days now. I haven't moved to Smoktech because of the 510 Leaks, and because I'm trying to work it out with the AGA-T2.

Ohms, Voltage, and/or Power will depend greatly on the Device (in your case, the K200), the Tank Design and Airflow, and very much so on the Juice and Flavorings in it. Some are better experiences with a Subtle Hint of Flavor, others Medium... I like the CHR a bit Strong. Some folks like more Vapor, others more Throat Hit. Some like a Cooler Vapor, while others like it Warm or even Hot. I don't care about Throat Hit, I don't want it Hot, or even Warm. I've been good so far with the Temps that develop the Flavor, but I do want nice Clouds.

With a Vamo V3, I'll have enough Amps available to get to the Power Levels I want, which really aren't very high, considering. But with the K200 and the Coils I am able to achieve with 30g, I couldn't approach them. I could get Vapor, but no real Flavor.

1.5Ω * 2.5A = 3.75V. The K200 can only be set to 3.7V, which is ~9 Watts. It looks good on paper, but it doesn't work out well for me on the K200, and I cannot go any higher than that on this coil. Maybe it's the 30g taking too long to heat up, but on a straight 18650 Box Mod, with a fresh battery at 4.2V, I get what I want for a little while. This is approaching 12W, but I'm thinking that with better Mesh, better Kanthal in 32g, and even 34g, I can get the coil to heat up quicker, get the ohms I want in less wraps, make the vapor, and not require as long in puffs. I'll have to see if 34g gets too hot too fast, as claimed by some. Everything is subjective, and I might like it. I'll also get new 30g from that Vendor, just in case.

For you, there's no reason to change anything if you're happy, other than to try new things, when your budget allows it, to see if you can find something even better. Vaping Nirvana... call me a Seeker.

 

[JeremyR]

Had my first problem with it today but got it resolved quickly.. Will post update later

 

[JeremyR]

Ok the 510 connector fell out.. It was wobbly for a while.. Didnt realize it was pressed in. Wish I would have had some solder or something to put in there. I would have nearly filled the drip well with it... Because the 510 fell out again and broke off the positive wire. Again now the negative is broken off .. So about 2 months and its done.. They definitely needed more than the press fit for that to hold up. I may get a replacement from my supplier and this time do something to weld it in place.. A few pics.. One with my oddity stacked tank before it broke for good.