Kamry K200 Full Review

[100%VG]

I bought a Kamry K200 last week as a replacement while my VTube went in for Repair, because it was relatively cheap.

In my opinion, it's a Cheap Piece of Garbage.

OK, it has VV and VW, and the VV goes from 3.0V to 6.0V, which is a nice Range, with 0.1V Increments. And the VW goes from 5W to 15W, which is a nice Range, but the VW has 1.0W Increments (One Full Watt). In my opinion (notice that I am NOT saying IMHO), 1.0W Increments makes this VW totally UNUSABLE.

It's a Cheaply Made mod, made in something of a Clone Look Copy-Cat of the Tesla. It has a clutzy LED Screen that shows a squared U instead of a V for Volts, a squared P for Power instead of a W for Watts, and a square lowercase "o" for ohms. The Battery Life Indicator in a clunky 4-line meter that doesn't really give much Info... only like Full Charge (4 bars), 3/4, 1/2, 1/4, and No Bar means it's very Low, but it still works for a while there. I guess this is better than Nothing for a Battery Charge Indication. The Screen has a Backlight and you can select the Color (Who Cares!!!), but this Backlight cannot be turned OFF, so it's always ON while you vape, drawing unnecessary Power. And there's a Puff Count Indicator (Who Cares!!!).

Speaking of Power... the K200 is a Total Battery HOGG. My Panasonic IMR 2250 will last a Full Day to 1.5 Days in my VTube, but I cannot make it through 2/3 of a day on the K200. The Backlight, Puff Counter, and Level Meter are eating up Power, and the DC-DC Converter Chip must be Horribly Inefficient.

It's a lightweight Aluminum mod, and the Milling is very Course, with deep Groves that can be easily seen in the Flat sections. The Hole Cutouts for the Screen and Push Buttons are Press-Punch-Cut very Course, and they have Burrs showing. This poor Milling also effects the Battery End Cap... it can be hard to align and get Screwed In. I got the Chrome finish, and after only ONE WEEK, the Chrome Finish is wearing away, on the Back in 4-5 places where I grip it, and all around the Fire Button.

The VV Up/Down Buttons are Backwards, and this is hard to get used to. I know they are Backwards, so I think... let me press This one this time, and I'm always Wrong. So I labeled them U and D with an Ultra Fine Tip Sharpie and put a piece of Tape over it.

This Review K200 Mechanical - Full Kit - Silver says that it will not Output less that 3.7V, no matter what. I would not have known this, but apparently it's a Known Issue.

The Kamry K200 Works, and it's better than Nothing (though not by much), but that's the Best I can say for it.

The Vendor I bought mine from (not from the Vendor in that Review link) sells the Mod PV Only for $49. I found a Vapor Joe $10 Coupon and got it for $39. After I ordered it, I called to ask if it came in the Kit that the Kamry website shows, with what looks like a Panasonic IMR 2250, a Case, and some other stuff, where the Suggested Retail Price is $40 (thinking for $49, it must be the Kit!!!), and he said that he only sells the Mod because it's a cheap copy of the Panasonic that people are having trouble with. I figured I'd keep the order and get one, to have VW again (I had an eVic before). WRONG!!!

Everything about the K200 is a Cheap Copy Clone!!!

For $10 More, I could have bought a Stainless Steel Vamo V2.

 

[Fury83]

That's why I love discount vapers

Eric's review & Usage tips
There are 5 buttons on the K200.
The top left changes the background color with just one press, neat but otherwise useless. The one on the right is used to adjust wattage.
Pressing the top right button steps the Kamry K200 through a range of 5 to 15 watts in 1-watt increments. It only adjusts upward, so if you want to go from 10 watts to 7, for example, you need to click the button until it adjusts up to P15, again to cycle around to P5, and then two more times to get to P7. It would be nice if it was .5 increments but still.. being picky.

The two smaller buttons just above the fire button adjust voltage, and they can be used to set the K200 from 3.0 to 6.0 volts in .1 volt increments, with the current setting shown on the simple three-character LCD display.
These buttons seem to be reversed: the left button adjust volume upward, while the right one adjusts it downward. Keep this in mind.
That said, the variable really is variable, this mod is not a .1 accuracy mod, it's off sometimes a bit, but certainly workable for the range, it's not a real issue. However NOTHING works below 3.7, if you have it set below 3.7, you will still get 3.7, an obvious and inexcusable flaw. But if you do not need it below 3.7 awesome and the look makes up for the poor electronics.

Because of this I am basically selling this item at a discount and will not order them again, so if you like the look, order it, but be warned, it will not be warranteed for the voltage issues, or for anything but DOA.
It also does not have an ego connector, just 510, which means you'll need a 510 to eGo adpater for some items that do not go far enough down into the well like the eVod!

It has a floating center pin, this means you need to press the atomizer down into the hole to get it to catch, the top is a bit open allowing for a poorly threaded device to connect, a neat feature but it takes a bit to get used to, your first reaction would be "hey this doesn't fit anything" but press down and it will catch. It's designed like this.


Bottom Line I like it's style even with it's flaws but it is not exactly as advertised (to me), I will not be buying this again until all flaws are worked out so take advantage of the low price if you like it.

Love the honesty

Also, does it bottom out at 3.7volts or just not do step down. I would have guessed the latter.

 

[JeremyR]

The battery Hogg issue is gonna be a problem. too bad they didn't make one of the "color" options - no back light! Duh kamry!

 

[100%VG]

That's why I love discount vapers

Love the honesty

Also, does it bottom out at 3.7volts or just not do step down. I would have guessed the latter.

Mine shows that it adjusts from 3.0V to 6.0V, so I guess what he's saying is that no matter what the Screen shows, it doesn't actually go down below 3.7V.

I looked at every Video and Review Write-Up I could find before I bought one. Maybe if I had seen that one, I wouldn't have done it, and gone for the Vamo V2.

 

[100%VG]

The battery Hogg issue is gonna be a problem. too bad they didn't make one of the "color" options - no back light! Duh kamry!

No Backlight might help, a little, but everything else about the K200 is so Cheap, it's probably a total Junk Chip in there as well.

Who's ever heard of 1.0W VW Increments? Anyone?!!! Not Me!!! This was not specified, anywhere, so I figured at worst it would be 0.5W Increments.

There are many Mod PVs with 0.1W Increments. And the money that they have the nerve to Charge for this thing is RAPE!!!

 

[jefsview]

The 1.0 increments of Wattage was stated on both of the Youtube reviews that I saw, the one from Todd and from lordy.

And here it is on the Discount Vapers review on the product listings:

"Pressing the top right button steps the Kamry K200 through a range of 5 to 15 watts in 1-watt increments. It only adjusts upward, so if you want to go from 10 watts to 7, for example, you need to click the button until it adjusts up to P15, again to cycle around to P5, and then two more times to get to P7. It would be nice if it was .5 increments but still.. being picky."

So it was out there.

 

[100%VG]

The 1.0 increments of Wattage was stated on both of the Youtube reviews that I saw, the one from Todd and from lordy.

And here it is on the Discount Vapers review on the product listings:

"Pressing the top right button steps the Kamry K200 through a range of 5 to 15 watts in 1-watt increments. It only adjusts upward, so if you want to go from 10 watts to 7, for example, you need to click the button until it adjusts up to P15, again to cycle around to P5, and then two more times to get to P7. It would be nice if it was .5 increments but still.. being picky."

So it was out there.

I missed those. If I had seen them, there's NO WAY that I would have bought a K200. I looked at everything I found.

Thanks for Sharing.

Edit to Add:
I disagree. Being Picky would be wanting only 0.1W Increments. I think 0.5W Increments would at least be Acceptable. 1.0W Increments, however, is NOT.

 

[jefsview]

You're welcome

I know your frustration. I've been looking at it too, as well as others as 1 step up from my MVP. The MVP is my only 510 device (I have an 808 otherwise), and I want a backup. But I don't have much cash, and I would need a charger and batteries, since I only have ego-style and the MVP. So I've been going back and forth to various regulated mods looking for the best bang for the buck, but that will also last more than just a few months.

And I'm not waiting 2 weeks to get it from Fast Tech, either. When I order something, I want it here in 2-4 days.

So I understand the frustration. Thank you for taking the time for the detailed review. Not enough of them for the K200. Seems to have more problems then it's worth in version 1.

 

[100%VG]

You're welcome

I know your frustration. I've been looking at it too, as well as others as 1 step up from my MVP. The MVP is my only 510 device (I have an 808 otherwise), and I want a backup. But I don't have much cash, and I would need a charger and batteries, since I only have ego-style and the MVP. So I've been going back and forth to various regulated mods looking for the best bang for the buck, but that will also last more than just a few months.

And I'm not waiting 2 weeks to get it from Fast Tech, either. When I order something, I want it here in 2-4 days.

So I understand the frustration. Thank you for taking the time for the detailed review. Not enough of them for the K200. Seems to have more problems then it's worth in version 1.

And personally, I will not look for a V2.

 

[100%VG]

The 1.0 increments of Wattage was stated on both of the Youtube reviews that I saw, the one from Todd and from lordy.

And here it is on the Discount Vapers review on the product listings:

"Pressing the top right button steps the Kamry K200 through a range of 5 to 15 watts in 1-watt increments. It only adjusts upward, so if you want to go from 10 watts to 7, for example, you need to click the button until it adjusts up to P15, again to cycle around to P5, and then two more times to get to P7. It would be nice if it was .5 increments but still.. being picky."

So it was out there.

I didn't look at Post dates today, but it is possible that those posts were made after my purchase and research a week ago. All I can say for certain is that I did look and research it before I purchased one. My hope is that others will find this info Helpful.


If you need a Mod that can be Charged without an External Charger, you'll still need an 18650 Battery, but an eGo Charger may not have enough Power to Charge an 18650, and the K200 is so Cheap, it may blow your Charger all by itself. That might seem unfair and unkind, but this is my impression of the K200.

 

[100%VG]

News Flash. This just in...


The Kamry K200 will not let me use my AGA-T2.

Of course I knew that I could not use the K200 to get the AGA-T2 going, as it is a Regulated Mod. So what I have been using is a Passthrough Rig made from a broken eGo-T Battery Shell (empty), a 30W Push Button in the Bottom (Red Button), a USB Cable, and a Computer Power Supply. The USB Cable goes through the eGo Fire Switch hole. The Box with the Green LEDs (a Power Supply Tester) turns the Power Supply ON. This used to be all I had after an eVic had to be returned in January, before I got my VTube. It worked pretty good with the Vivi Nova at 3.3V. I recently tapped another USB Plug into 5V for 3Ω Cartos. With this Rig, I have 3.3V and 5V at my disposal, so this is what I use to make the AGA-T2 Coils.

I am fairly new to this RBA (it's my first), and I'm having trouble getting a Coil not to pop the first wrap, so they keep coming in lower than I'd like. My goal is about 2.3Ω with 30g Kanthal, but when the Top Wrap Pops, I have to unwrap it there and tie in the Coil one wrap shorter. All I've been able to manage so far is 1.6Ω to 1.8Ω. This is because jumping from 3.3V to 5V is much too high of a Voltage change to get a Coil going properly. I also think my SS Mesh isn't high quality Mesh now, for reasons better made in another discussion.

Whatever the problem is there, with the 1.8Ω Coil I just made last night, the K200 works great on a Fully Charged Battery... for a few Minutes (22 Puffs on the Counter), and then the Screen flashes, the Charge Indicator shows only one bar, and the K200 stops working shortly after that.

This was with a Fully Charged Battery, mind you. So I put in another Fully Charged Battery, and it did the same thing in less time. These are brand new Batteries, so it's not like they're old and worn out. I put on another atty (a Carto Tank), and the K200 showed 3/4 Charge on the Battery. There was probably more than a 3/4 Charge in the Battery, but it wasn't a Full Charge, so the Indicator showed 3/4 (3 bars). Many people like 1.8Ω and even Lower, so the K200 is absolutely not for you if this is your preference.

While I can't say for certain, it looks even more like the Electronics (the VV/VW/Control-Everything Chip) inside is just too cheap to do much of anything well. All that really works well is the VV, but it's still a Battery Hogg!!!

I don't think I'd even trust this Chip to properly charge a Battery via the 510. It's supposed to do that, but mine didn't come with a 510 Charger. I am NOT going to try it, so you'd have to meter a Fully Charged Battery yourself. I am fortunate enough to have an excellent external Charger that Terminates the charge at 4.16V, and does not do a Trickle Charge at all. It's the Single-Bay Charger that came with the VTube Kit.

FYI: A Battery should not be charged all the way up to 4.2V. 4.18V at the most, with True Charge Termination there, and No Trickle Charge. These two things will greatly extend the life of any Lithium-based Battery. Charging up to 4.2 won't hurt one. It just doesn't Help one, but charging anything Over 4.2 will... even constantly charging to 4.22V can shorten the life of Lithium Battery Drastically.

 

[Kiolbassa]

The K200 was my very first mod and was so excited about it. When it came in the mail, I threw in a battery and fiddled with it and then put on my 5ml udct. Yeah, it was definitely an upgrade from my ego, but even though I didn't know anything about mods, deep down I knew I made a bad decision. Then the issues kicked in. Like cutting out and saying the battery was dead even with 3.9v. Then the fire button start acting up then eventually lost it's "clickyness". A week later I bought a Vamo and just used the k200 for the computer desk. Then the fire button started sticking and wouldn't turn off. So today I decided to tear this POS apart just because that's what I do when I break things. I don't know anything about PCBs and whatnot but after disassembled, I found the "spring disk" under the rubber button was flattened out so I just flipped it and it was clicky again. Either way, this thing is junk. I'm not even going to bother putting it back together and will probably use the PCB for my first DYI mod. Save you money.

 

[Syzygy]

Guess I'll just double down on my Tesla!

 

[joelj]

My friend suggested a K200 (it looked awesome), but thank god I bought a Vamo V2 SS.... feeling happy now

 

[Lexxon]

My friend suggested a K200 (it looked awesome), but thank god I bought a Vamo V2 SS.... feeling happy now

You are very smart joelj. With all the Awesome reviews of the VAMO and VAMO v2, why would you try out a new mod "Clone" that hasn't been tested much? I try and never purchase a new item on the market, like the VAMO v3 because there are, sometimes, problems with them. The VAMO v3 had a flaw that would fire for up to 3 seconds after you turned the unit off. That was bad. Now they have fixed this problem and from what I hear, the VAMO v3 works properly now. Once I find out that the VAMO v3 is working correctly I will purchase one. But not until I'm sure that it will work properly as stated.

Happy Vaping

 

[JeremyR]

I'm my experience the flat top version of the k200 performs as intended with no problems, 2 months in. I believe its version 2. It does have a 2.5 amp limit and cut off at battery voltage of 3.6. I get between 10-12 hours on the kamry batteries. It's one of the shortest and widest 18650 vv mods you can get for cheap.

 

[Smokke]

News Flash. This just in...


The Kamry K200 will not let me use my AGA-T2.

Of course I knew that I could not use the K200 to get the AGA-T2 going, as it is a Regulated Mod. So what I have been using is a Passthrough Rig made from a broken eGo-T Battery Shell (empty), a 30W Push Button in the Bottom (Red Button), a USB Cable, and a Computer Power Supply. The USB Cable goes through the eGo Fire Switch hole. The Box with the Green LEDs (a Power Supply Tester) turns the Power Supply ON. This used to be all I had after an eVic had to be returned in January, before I got my VTube. It worked pretty good with the Vivi Nova at 3.3V. I recently tapped another USB Plug into 5V for 3Ω Cartos. With this Rig, I have 3.3V and 5V at my disposal, so this is what I use to make the AGA-T2 Coils.

I am fairly new to this RBA (it's my first), and I'm having trouble getting a Coil not to pop the first wrap, so they keep coming in lower than I'd like. My goal is about 2.3Ω with 30g Kanthal, but when the Top Wrap Pops, I have to unwrap it there and tie in the Coil one wrap shorter. All I've been able to manage so far is 1.6Ω to 1.8Ω. This is because jumping from 3.3V to 5V is much too high of a Voltage change to get a Coil going properly. I also think my SS Mesh isn't high quality Mesh now, for reasons better made in another discussion.

Whatever the problem is there, with the 1.8Ω Coil I just made last night, the K200 works great on a Fully Charged Battery... for a few Minutes (22 Puffs on the Counter), and then the Screen flashes, the Charge Indicator shows only one bar, and the K200 stops working shortly after that.

This was with a Fully Charged Battery, mind you. So I put in another Fully Charged Battery, and it did the same thing in less time. These are brand new Batteries, so it's not like they're old and worn out. I put on another atty (a Carto Tank), and the K200 showed 3/4 Charge on the Battery. There was probably more than a 3/4 Charge in the Battery, but it wasn't a Full Charge, so the Indicator showed 3/4 (3 bars). Many people like 1.8Ω and even Lower, so the K200 is absolutely not for you if this is your preference.

While I can't say for certain, it looks even more like the Electronics (the VV/VW/Control-Everything Chip) inside is just too cheap to do much of anything well. All that really works well is the VV, but it's still a Battery Hogg!!!

I don't think I'd even trust this Chip to properly charge a Battery via the 510. It's supposed to do that, but mine didn't come with a 510 Charger. I am NOT going to try it, so you'd have to meter a Fully Charged Battery yourself. I am fortunate enough to have an excellent external Charger that Terminates the charge at 4.16V, and does not do a Trickle Charge at all. It's the Single-Bay Charger that came with the VTube Kit.

FYI: A Battery should not be charged all the way up to 4.2V. 4.18V at the most, with True Charge Termination there, and No Trickle Charge. These two things will greatly extend the life of any Lithium-based Battery. Charging up to 4.2 won't hurt one. It just doesn't Help one, but charging anything Over 4.2 will... even constantly charging to 4.22V can shorten the life of Lithium Battery Drastically.

Good info. thanks

 

[Smokke]

I'm my experience the flat top version of the k200 performs as intended with no problems, 2 months in. I believe its version 2. It does have a 2.5 amp limit and cut off at battery voltage of 3.6. I get between 10-12 hours on the kamry batteries. It's one of the shortest and widest 18650 vv mods you can get for cheap.

I traded a Sentinel M16 Clone for one of these the other day. Since the M16 Clone cost me about $17 I am happy with the K200. It seems to cut off on me and show the battery is low but when I put it on my charger it will still read 4.2. Other than when that happens I like it. It is cheaply made but I cant complain for what I paid.

Wondering if anyone else has had this problem and knows what I can do to make mine work better.

 

[JeremyR]

Hey smokee, glad to hear your liking it... for one you can not use anything lower that 2.6 ohms above about 4.2v; or less due to amp limitations. Which for kamry bats I'm using it seems to be maybe 2 amps or 1.75 tops. When voltage of battery gets low the amp limit seems to decline and 2.6 may start to cut out toward the end. I usually use around 3 ohm, can still get a great vape. One weak point for sure is the 510 connection. It's pressed in, if you drop it on the atty it most likely will start to come loose. 22 mm atomizers or bigger seem to give better support to prevent this. In using a 23mm oddy clone and it fits nice. Protank not so much too small. If you using smaller diameter attys, may want to fill up half the drip well with something to solidify it, epoxy or solder that doesn't smell when dry. If your 510 is not flush with the top or crooked its moved already and will eventually fall out. you can press it back in flush with top then fill the well or it will Put 510 down on hard surface and press or hammer it flush.

There is another thread that gets into the aspects of this mod more deeply by post 30
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-k200-anyone-have-one-yet.html?highlight=K200

 

[TGuiles]

Just to add to this...

My Kamry 200 vapes like a champ and the battery lasts 2 days on average, and I am a pretty heavy vaper. At times, it does seem to not trigger (the LED blinks), but it is rare when it does. I can imagine that some people may see this as the battery being low. The battery gauge is not very accurate, either. I don't find it cheaply made, although the bugs in the firmware should be worked out.

All in all, I thoroughly enjoy mine.