Kanger Attie Problem...

[PhuxAche]

Hi,

I'm new to this forum, so I will take this opportunity so say hello to all!

I'm a fairly experienced vapor. I rebuild my atties, etc, but lately I've gave up on rebuilds because of the trial and error problems.
One attie will fine, then pops. Another will allow a gurgle, and another will work fine with no probs. I know how to rebuild, but it's just a pain in the ..... So anyway...

I bought a 5 off 2.2ohm and a 5 off 2.5ohm Kanger Atomizers the other day. They came this avo. Was glad to see them, because I could just screw them in and away I go. Now I have a new problem. But first let me tell you my hardware:

2x Kanger EVOD 1100 MAH batteries
1x Kanger EVOD 1100 MAH Variable Voltage (which I love but the bat life sucks).

I have about 5 or 6 EVOD tanks and I have 2x Protank2's

I have the Protanks on the EVOD Bat, and on the Variable Voltage.

So I screw in an attie into both Protanks. Screw one on the EVOD and one on the VV.

Prime, and hold on a min... no air flow... no vape plume... check battery light, all ok. Try again.. same problem..
I try this on both the EVOD and EVOD VV same problem. I use the 2.2 and 2.5 ohm and another 2 different atties, same probs.
NOTE: Both bats are fully charged...

So, I notice leakage from both bats. Clean up, and screw on. Same again.
This time I decide (unknown why but something told me to..) to unscrew the Protank's counter-clockwise as if to take off (probably about 3 turns) and try again, and now I am starting to vape. But another few turns are required to get a good vape?!

This is not good because only the beauty cone is locking the Protank to the thread, and the Protank is sitting near the top of the battery thread, and I now have a gap of just over 1mm between the battery and the cone?!

Upon visual inspection, the new atties compared to my old atties look identical for overall length.
I checked the base where the attie is screwed into and there is nothing suggest that the atomizer is too long and protruding through the base?

So what the hell is this problem? Can anyone suggest or has anyone experienced this?

 

[TheReign]

try taking off your the beauty ring. never had that problem with my protank i would just say try it.

 

[RubyRoo]

Sometimes the threading on the 510 connection of the Protanks gets worn down and you can block off the tiny holes in the connection. Here's a video that might help:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3haz-dLO8iU

 

[PhuxAche]

I did try that dude, just the same. I have updated some info at the bottom of the thread that you might find interesting...

 

[PhuxAche]

try taking off your the beauty ring. never had that problem with my protank i would just say try it.

I did try that, but no use. The beauty ring actually helps to lock the PT2 into place if I have is so far down the thread..

 

[PhuxAche]

Here's a reply from my vendor that I got earlier tonight:

"Sorry to hear the coils are giving you problems.

I've heard of the problem before but it's odd that its happening with both coils as they're different ohm's.

Can i ask what battery/mod you're using the protank 2's with.. I've heard of a problem with Vamo 2 which somehow cuts of air to the new type coils kanger has made. It could be a fault with the coils though. Kanger changed the rubber in the bottom of the coils to silicone to reduce the rubber taste, the silicone grommet is slightly softer so when screws down may be compressing and blocking the airhole so you get a really tight draw. If you want to send them back to me i can send you a few new boxes and hopefully it fixes the issue as it may be just coincidence that the coils you received are faulty.."

 

[sdennislee]

Here's a reply from my vendor that I got earlier tonight:

"Sorry to hear the coils are giving you problems.

I've heard of the problem before but it's odd that its happening with both coils as they're different ohm's.

Can i ask what battery/mod you're using the protank 2's with.. I've heard of a problem with Vamo 2 which somehow cuts of air to the new type coils kanger has made. It could be a fault with the coils though. Kanger changed the rubber in the bottom of the coils to silicone to reduce the rubber taste, the silicone grommet is slightly softer so when screws down may be compressing and blocking the airhole so you get a really tight draw. If you want to send them back to me i can send you a few new boxes and hopefully it fixes the issue as it may be just coincidence that the coils you received are faulty.."

I've seen other posts discussing the airflow issue with the heads. They can be identified by the rubber, in the new heads its closer to clear/translucent vs the older heads which were white.

I have some of the new heads, only used 2 so far. One in a Hypertank and one in a Unitank, so far no problem.

Can you tell me if your new heads have the clear of white rubber?

 

[ZeroOhms]

hmm. ProTank mini base trick should have worked. Protank gets its air from three tiny holes right under the base. Air enters through these holes and travel between the inside of base threat and bottom of atomizer head. Unfortunately, recent batch of head seems to use rubber grommet that gets squashed when the tank is tighten and blocks this pathway.
A few ways to fix this (if you are having this problem)
DIY method is to cut flush the grommet on the atomizer base. Take a sharp knife and trim it, so that it is flush to the metal. If this worked, you have two more permanent options.
Enlarge the air hole on the base little. This would allow some room against the grommet.
Less destructive way is to change the base with new AeroTank base. This not only fixes the blockage problem but also give you control over amount of air as well. Taking vaping experience to new level.
KangerTech AeroTank Base - Sun-Vapers.com

Good luck!

 

[Keynith]

Make sure its connecting right. I usually have to use a flat head screwdriver and wedge the bottom of attys out more so it makes contact with the head of my vamo.

 

[PhuxAche]

I've seen other posts discussing the airflow issue with the heads. They can be identified by the rubber, in the new heads its closer to clear/translucent vs the older heads which were white.

I have some of the new heads, only used 2 so far. One in a Hypertank and one in a Unitank, so far no problem.

Can you tell me if your new heads have the clear of white rubber?

Yes they are indeed white. They are no longer rubber, they are now silicone.