Kanger ProTank II not working with variable battery?

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I started vaping a little over a month ago with a standard CE4 clearo with an eGo C-twist variable. Unfortunately, I bought from a small bricks & mortar & didn't get a box or itemized receipt. I'm not 100% positive, but I believe it's the 650mAh as it has 3.2, 4.0, & 4.8 as setting options.

Fast forward: I wanted to not worry about what juices I was buying & if they would work in plastic. Since I'm completely off analogs, I thought I would buy glass for it's longer-term durability & settled on the Kanger ProTank II. I have a cheaper back-up eGo battery that I got in a Panda grab grab bag. The cheap one works fine on the Kanger, but I cannot get the variable to work.

I thought I might have used the wrong coil (it came with two & the writing is too small for my eyes), so I switched it to the 2.5. Still nothing.

Any thoughts? I have some disposable clearos that I use while my Panda is charging, but I'd like to be able to use the variable. Thanks in advance!
 
Thank you! I just received that advice from a vendor for another battery (brand new, never used - bought with the Kanger) that I'm convinced is a dud because the light doesn't work & I can't get it to charge. Not having a good week with batteries, I guess.

I'm fortunate that my good friend has been vaping for a couple of years & was with me when I bought my kit. She straight out warned me about citrus & cinnamon. When I saw how much I was missing out on, I *had* to have glass. My friend is a big fan of Mt. Baker.
 

xtwosm0kesx

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As Choc mentions theres 2 ways to likely solve the problem:

#1) The (above mentioned) battery fix, done by slightly raising the ego batteries terminal, may work:

Center Pin Issue - Fixing a non firing eGo battery - YouTube

#2) You extend the contact pins on your protank heads, should work:

Remove the head from the PT base or grab your spare head.

Work your fingernail between the connector pin and the grommet. (see pic 1)

pthead.jpg

Gently work the pin a few mm out of the rubber grommet. (see pic 2)

IMG_1400.jpg

Then reinstall the head in the PT base, and reassemble the tank.

The contact pin should now adjust itself to the proper height (ie push in) and it should fire.
 

Beowoulf

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I have 2 ego twists from Fasttech. One does not work with the iclear 16, and the other gives too tight a draw on another clearo. These are not precision instruments made in Germany. Try the fixes mentioned above. Best of luck and if you want to stay off analogs, get a decent battery that is reliable and have some backups just in case.
 
I have 2 ego twists from Fasttech. One does not work with the iclear 16, and the other gives too tight a draw on another clearo. These are not precision instruments made in Germany. Try the fixes mentioned above. Best of luck and if you want to stay off analogs, get a decent battery that is reliable and have some backups just in case.

Ha!

I had two back-ups & fried one during a power surge. I bought a new one with the ProTank, & I think it's a dud (see my response a few posts up). I keep some clearos around & am slowly building stock. It's all so...overwhelming. But, hey, I went off analogs within a few days of starting, so it's all good.
 

crxess

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Seems most Kanger benefit from a post pull. I own about 30 and have to do this after any cleaning or using a new unit. Evods won't even make contact on my original Vamo. eVic's work once adjusted.

Did you do the 5 click on for the new battery? Some of mine occasionally require 6-7 quick pulses to turn on/off.
 
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