KANGER SUB TANK MINI super warm vape

[bundy325]

hey guys i know i haven't post much but here goes

recently got ahold of a cf mod sub ohm battery and a kanger subtank mini after my mvp 2.0 died lol
the thing is when i first used this set up it was fine and dandy now i am experiencing a super warm vape
i am using a .5ohm using 26g kanthal build using the rta not the included coils with the airway fully open
is this normal? or should i buy a regulated 50w box mod instead and sell off this cf mod battery?

thank you in advance to everyone who replies

 

[UncleMike]

mouth to lung vaping with the subtank mini tends to give a really warm/hot vape as the coil isn't getting enough air pulled by it to keep it cooled down. Direct lung hits tend to be much cooler when using the subtank mini in my experience

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I can't m2l with the mini or the nano at any airflow setting using either premades (0.5 or 12 ohm) or the RBA with a number of different builds. The closest I can get is with Ni build and a dna40 clone mod at a low temp setting. Not really for m2l these things I think!!

 

[bundy325]

i dont ever do m2l hits
can it be the nic level that causing the warm rough throat hits?
i have been on 12mg ever since i got my mvp 2 should i lower the nic level?

 

[Signmaker]

Warm vape is kinda the "thing" with the ST Mini, was the first thing I noticed about it. I had heard people raving about "warm, dense vape", but just couldnt get it, even duplicating their builds. With my Mini, first pull in the morning is nice and warm, like fresh pancakes. The downside being, if I chain vape at all, it gets HOT and quick. Since the airflow is restricted even on cyclops setting, by the end of a long lung hit it's pretty toasty. I normally MTL on it (two-hole setting) at 20-25w, and it only gets hot by the 5th pull.

Keeping the tank filled above the top of the chamber, using a finned drip tip, and using 28-30ga wire seems to help. I'm currently running a 3mm 26ga 10-wrap in the RBA, wicked with KGD bunny-ears cut flush with the top of the chamber barrel, and stuffed to either side of the weep holes, 70vg juice.

 

[bundy325]

Warm vape is kinda the "thing" with the ST Mini, was the first thing I noticed about it. I had heard people raving about "warm, dense vape", but just couldnt get it, even duplicating their builds. With my Mini, first pull in the morning is nice and warm, like fresh pancakes. The downside being, if I chain vape at all, it gets HOT and quick. Since the airflow is restricted even on cyclops setting, by the end of a long lung hit it's pretty toasty. I normally MTL on it (two-hole setting) at 20-25w, and it only gets hot by the 5th pull.

Keeping the tank filled above the top of the chamber, using a finned drip tip, and using 28-30ga wire seems to help. I'm currently running a 3mm 26ga 10-wrap in the RBA, wicked with KGD bunny-ears cut flush with the top of the chamber barrel, and stuffed to either side of the weep holes, 70vg juice.

i have a cf mod sub ohm battery so i cant change the W why i was think about selling it and getting a box mod atleast 50w i am not into hardcore cloud chasing or anything just want a dependable set up that i can rebuild as buying coils etc gets annoying and pricey opposed to buying kanthal in bulk and having an almost limitless amount of coils
did notice if i take a deep fast draw i dont get a warm vape but it does get on my nerves that i have to do it every single time i take a vape from it

 

[Mark1963]

i dont ever do m2l hits
can it be the nic level that causing the warm rough throat hits?
i have been on 12mg ever since i got my mvp 2 should i lower the nic level?

Lower your nic level. 12 is too much on a .5 coil. My preferred nic level is 3& but occasionally I go to 6.

i have a cf mod sub ohm battery so i cant change the W

You can change the voltage. I don't own one of those things, but reading the specs says 3.5 volts to 4.2 volts.

 

[bundy325]

Lower your nic level. 12 is too much on a .5 coil. My preferred nic level is 3& but occasionally I go to 6.



You can change the voltage. I don't own one of those things, but reading the specs says 3.5 volts to 4.2 volts.

stated it can be changed but i cant find any info

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

stated it can be changed but i cant find any info

I assume he is mistaking the operating voltage range of the battery as meaning its adjustable.

AFAIK it is essentially a protected 'mechanical' battery so it will start out at 4.2 volts and gradually decrease(in voltage and performance) with use, until it cuts off(need recharged) at 3.5v.

Essentially exactly how a regular mechanical mod/battery discharge curve works.

 

[Technonut]

Moved from Sub-Ohm Forum to Clearomizer Forum... (Better suited here)