Kanger Sub Tank shorting issue.

[kinny999]

Hi folks I'm putting my issue on here more to document it than seek a fix as i've ordered an Nautilus to replace my faulty sub tank and *hopefully* fix the problem once and for all.

It's a weird issue and after looking around, there seems to be quite a few known issues with the sub tank and newer mini and nano versions but nothing exactly like mine; they seem to more to do with leaking issues.

My Sub tank causes the mod (k-box) to short at seemingly random intervals and also, again at random causes dry hits even when full of juice.

The reason i know it's the sub box and not the mod portion is that i've tried it on 3 separate k-box' and a couple of other similar level generic mods and the exact same issue ensues.

It doesn't matter what voltage I'm using although understandably going higher seems to make it worse for dry hits. I've broken it down, cleaned it, replaces O rings, tried different coils and even used the RBA base which I didn't usually bother with and yet the issue remains?

I've seen a video where the top half of the chimney piece is slightly misaligned and causing grinding when tightening and some leaking and this issue doesn't seem to be present on mine.

Theres actually been noticeably less leaking since the problem started where prior I used to always have juice leaking out the air holes if it had been in my pocket or not stood upright.

This leads me to think it's maybe the sprung pin bit on the bottom of the sub tank and where it's connecting to the 510 adaptor on the mod?

Just wondering if anybody else has had similar issues, heard of this problem or even found a cause or fix?

thanks for any help or suggestions i may have missed in the meantime.

 

[Katmar]

Bump

 

[msrfrog]

The spring in the pin? Do the new versions have that? That'd be my guess . does that section come apart?

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

[Pleased]

My guess would be a tolerance issue.

If the milling was out slightly from tolerance it could cause an issue where the coil (or RBA section) could not fully engage with the pin when the coil was fully screwed in.

The quality control of a lot of our gear is getting better all the time but it still is an issue with many things made in China.

I really notice this with some of the tanks and RDA's I have. Some thread into the 510 connection on my mod very smoothly while others thread but are wobbly as heck until they make contact with the deck. Obviously the rod used to mill the male portion of the 510 connection is slightly too small when this is an issue.

I know I have to be extremely careful when threading my Herakles into any of my mods.

 

[Pleased]

BTW, my suggestion would be to find a bottoming tap the correct size and try adding about 1/4 turn of threads and see of that helps.

 

[kinny999]

Cheers for the bump Katmar and thanks to the other folks for the replies.

Something i didn't mention in the OP is that i'd been using the same tank successfully for about 9/10 months so it wasn't an out the box issue so as mentioned, probably down to wear and tear in some respect?
Also, the tank was slightly wobbly when fully screwed in so very likely a connection issue somewhere between the bottom of the coil and the 510 connection.

My Nautilus arrived a couple of days ago and happily its been fantastic since so definitely just the tank causing issues and not an unlucky combination of tank and mod.

Now the sub tank is redundant, would it be of interest if i were to take it to bits and take some pictures? Or would anyone like it posting to them to see if they can work it out?

Thanks again for the replies folks