Kanger Subtank Mini, RBA...

Status
Not open for further replies.
Okay so I'm having some trouble with this...as I've seen many others have as well. From what I understand the STM is a fantastic piece of equipment, but it can also be a bit temperamental. The first week I had the thing it was amazing. Excellent flavor out of every juice I tried, no burning, etc. Now all of a sudden I'm getting nothing but dry hits...and I'm talking like every single hit...super dry....really bland and almost no flavor...and I'm using some of the same juices I always have along with trying several new ones to test and see if the juice was bad.

I've tried a dozen different types of coils but I only have one wicking material to work with, organic japanese cotton sheets. Seeing as how changing the coil has done absolutely nothing I have been experimenting with different wicking techniques (primarily the same technique with different amount of cotton, but I have tried a couple different techniques). No luck...

The first issue I had was the last coil loop burning the cotton, but I seem to have resolved this issue...now I can't figure out why I'm getting such dry hits. I even took a dremel to the barrel that goes over the RDA, and put a notch in the barrel right at the point where it meets the juice channel. It is getting plenty of juice now...like sometimes even too much and it will pop and sizzle for a few drags until it evens out, but still the dry hits...I don't know what to do at this point. I don't think my cotton is too tight because I tried a couple builds with less cotton and it ended up burning.

I ordered a Goblin RTA, and a LEMO II yesterday so I could try a few different tanks and see if it's just my wicking causing the issues, but other than that I'm out of solutions or options to try. Aside from taking a dremel to the thing again...I've seen pics of people not only notching the barrel but also making the juice channels much larger, but juice flow doesn't seem to be my problem anymore.

I'm at work otherwise I'd take pics of my coil and wicking to see if anyone had an immediate solution, but that will have to wait until I get home tonight (and depending on how much energy I have after work). I have tried primarily several variations of these two methods: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuGKyHIQQfs, and Imgur

Any input would be greatly appreciated (especially pics of people's STM RBA so I can see how you're wicking).

Cheers!
 
What are your coils resistance and what wattage are you vaping with them?

I've experimented mostly with 26 and 28g A-1 kanthol. I prefer the 0.8-1.4ohm range and I vape between 15-20W on and iStick50W. I've seriously tried everything in that range, and I even went higher ohm last night out of curiosity (1.8ohm compressed micro coil, 8 wraps of 28g).
 

evan le'garde

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Apr 3, 2013
6,080
5,953
55
Always the last thing to check are the air holes in the base where air is drawn in. I use interdental brushes to clean these out.

This may seem like too much of a simple solution.

If the air cannot get into the tank then the liquid can't flow. So even if i open the valve right up there is still not enough air getting in even if the draw doesn't seem too tight. If only a little air is getting in it still isn't enough to allow the liquid to flow properly. I don't even have to take my tank apart to clean the holes either. And it is surprising how much gunge gets in those holes. Cruddy brown stuff.:smokie:

It works for me. :)
 
Last edited:

Brkdnc

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 7, 2015
967
1,555
Mad City, WI. USA
I'm still using one of the stock coils the tank came with reads .58ohm on the meter this wicking is nothing special it's the Muji cotton and this is about 1 1/2 weeks old at a couple tanks a day with no dry hits for me. Does look like it does needs a dry burn and a re-wick from my pic got to love close-up pics :unsure:

coil.jpg
 
It may be worth noting that it is recommended that you slightly tuck the cotton back to keep those juice channels exposed.

I just opened mine up and both channels are clearly visible and she is chucking without issue.

I've been really good about clearing the juice channel after I wick and soak the cottons. I get them into position and then pull that edge slightly away from the RBA walls using a safety pin. I make sure not to compress the cotton too terribly much, but after I pull the cotton back from the wall I can usually see light coming through the juice channel. Something like the first pic on this thread...http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/644323-kangertech-subtank-mini-147.html
 
Re-did my cotton Couple of pics so if you do it different might try my way. I use a tweezers to stuff the cotton down into it and then I use 1 side of the tweezers and I push it down until it goes in the channel to make sure it's open, never had and issue.

re3.jpg

Thanks! I'll have to give that a go and see what happens. My cottons are usually much looser than that, so maybe I'm just not using enough cotton? If I use any more it seems to be way too tight inside the coil.
 

Brkdnc

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 7, 2015
967
1,555
Mad City, WI. USA
Thanks! I'll have to give that a go and see what happens. My cottons are usually much looser than that, so maybe I'm just not using enough cotton? If I use any more it seems to be way too tight inside the coil.

It is little tight in the coil best reference I found on a video was you need about a 4mm wide strip of the cotton pad which is about twice the width of the inside diameter of the coil.

On my Muji Pads I make sure i cut the strip with the grain of the cotton. I did cut it cross grain once in the beginning of doing these and it just wouldn't work right.
 
It is little tight in the coil best reference I found on a video was you need about a 4mm wide strip of the cotton pad which is about twice the width of the inside diameter of the coil.

On my Muji Pads I make sure i cut the strip with the grain of the cotton. I did cut it cross grain once in the beginning of doing these and it just wouldn't work right.

Hmmm, interesting. I feel like I'm definitely not using enough cotton then...it's just that any time I've tried using more I end up burning the cotton.

I did the same thing with my cotton the first time or two that I rebuilt! When I cut it across grain it just kinda fell apart when I was trying to pull it through the coil, heh.
 
UPDATE:

I made a new coil and re-wicked over lunch and it seems to be giving me a lot better flavor, but still dry. Not as dry as before...but still dry.

I wrapped 26g kanthol (5 wraps if I remember right) on the size 30 post from a universal tool coil jig (sorry not sure of the metric diameter). Compressed coil. Came out to 1.0ohm on the iStick50W. I did a really light strip of cotton (perhaps a hair less than 3mm). Still needs some work but I'm getting closer...
 

Brkdnc

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 7, 2015
967
1,555
Mad City, WI. USA
UPDATE:

I made a new coil and re-wicked over lunch and it seems to be giving me a lot better flavor, but still dry. Not as dry as before...but still dry.

I wrapped 26g kanthol (5 wraps if I remember right) on the size 30 post from a universal tool coil jig (sorry not sure of the metric diameter). Compressed coil. Came out to 1.0ohm on the iStick50W. I did a really light strip of cotton (perhaps a hair less than 3mm). Still needs some work but I'm getting closer...

Size 30 should be a 3mm ID coil, I would try doubling the cotton to about a 5mm - 6mm+ strip of cotton that should keep the juice flowing.
 
Last edited:

Mroutlaw

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 13, 2012
2,556
2,033
Deerfield Beach, Florida
www.
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
Size 30 should be a 3mm ID coil, I would try doubling the cotton to about a 5mm - 6mm+ strip of cotton that should keep the juice flowing.

The kanger is finicky about cotton. It has to be full of cotton, but not packed in. It must be loose and fluffy. with the higher wattage, you may want to try a 3.5 mm coil too. Try this:

Thread cotton with the grain and cut. Then take something sharp like the end of you tweezers or a pin and fluff out the ends so its nice and fluffy and seperated. then put on chiminy and push down. Again, pack it in there but keep it fluffy and loose. (I do this with all my wicking. It helps the juice wick up to the coil easier) After you juice it up, push it back from the side a litte to expose the juice channels.

Also, make sure you dont have any hot spots on the coil.

If all else fails, get yourself a Tobeco Kayfun v4 clone. You can get them for $20-$25 and its identical to the authentic with the exception that the glass is a little thinner. Never ever runs dry if you wick it right. For that one, its all about stuffing cotton in there, the more the better.
 
Last edited:

dhood

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 30, 2014
1,263
940
Georgia
Wicking can be everything. My general rule is fluff, don't stuff. I've tried to follow Rip's guide to building on the mini. His guide is here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8rO6PoMgU4

I always make sure I pull the cotton away from the juice channels so it flows freer - make sure you see light. And I'm running some 70VG juice through it right now and getting no dry hits.
 
View attachment 426775View attachment 426776View attachment 426777

If all else fails, get yourself a Tobeco Kayfun v4 clone. You can get them for $20-$25 and its identical to the authentic with the exception that the glass is a little thinner. Never ever runs dry if you wick it right. For that one, its all about stuffing cotton in there, the more the better.

I'll have to try more cotton then and see what happens. I'm just hesitant because when I've tried more cotton it seems to be way too tight inside the coil and I experience burning within minutes. Thanks though I'll definitely try more cotton again and see what happens. I haven't been vaping long so frankly this could all be in my head as I'm not 100% sure what the experience should be. I also know everyone's personal preferences vary so that has made trouble shooting this very difficult.

I actually just purchased an authentic updated Goblin RTA, and the Lemo 2 on Monday. They should be arriving in the mail soon. I bought them primarily because I wanted to test a few different tanks and see if maybe the Subtank Mini just wasn't the tank for me...

I love my STM...it's just finicky like you said. I love the machining and I have had zero issues with it aside from the wicking. It also NEVER leaks on me which is a very important selling point for me. I have dogs and I'd be crapping myself if fluid leaked everywhere and the dogs licked it up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: D91ICE
Wicking can be everything. My general rule is fluff, don't stuff. I've tried to follow Rip's guide to building on the mini. His guide is here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8rO6PoMgU4

I always make sure I pull the cotton away from the juice channels so it flows freer - make sure you see light. And I'm running some 70VG juice through it right now and getting no dry hits.

RIP's method was what I initially started with when I bought the tank. RIP is the man. My tank was working well with this method and then it suddenly wasn't...I don't know.... and then I started experimenting with new wicking and stuff and the problems just got worse.
 
  • Like
Reactions: D91ICE
I've had the rba on the mini for a few weeks now. The coils that came in the packaging were not bad but I would recommend some 26g kanthal. The little screwdriver for the rba works well for making a good channel but as said before, "fluff dont stuff". Heavy VG juices dont work well and dry hits are always a possibility no matter what juice or wicking method.

Hope that helps :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread