Kanger SubTank: OCC Rebuild Questions

[Taylor7617]

Hello, I've been rebuilding PT2 coils for almost 2 years with good success and flavor. Figured it's about time I check out the new stuff that's out and this tank appears to be of quality - and the fact that it's glass helps with my juices. Needing glass restricted my options ...so I've stayed with Kanger for so long.

My questions - hoping for some quality help.
1) Appears stock is using Japanese Cotton - I don't have any. For my PT2s I've been using Sugar & Creme cotton yarn. Is this thick enough to use ...this comes as a 4-strand yarn. Or should I invest in some different cotton that can be cut to size. I've always used this yarn as I get a consistent thickness each and every time.

2) Has anyone has issues with the legs getting to hot and burning/scorching the insulator after a rebuild? I get this from time to time on PT2s and light scorching I keep using but when it gets to bad I have to replace.

3) Best coil wire - Kanthal or Nickel? I currently only have Kanthal 28 and 30ga.

4) Is 26ga stock ... best to use?

5) Can anyone confirm stock coil is NR-R-NR .... thus meaning the legs are made of non-resistant wire and as such wont heat up/burn insulator?
NOTE: I watched Rip Trippers rebuild video and many were commenting about this.

6) If stock is NR-R-NR .... is there a way to prevent getting the hot legs?


Any and all help is appreciated, thanks,
Mike

 

[jefx]

I've rebuilt my OCC heads several times. My Subtank Mini came with 2 and I haven't needed to buy any spares cuz I just rebuild them.

1. That's what they claim. The Subtank and Subtank Mini both come with a sheet of "Organic Japanese Cotton" that you can use for rewicking. I've tried it, works fine for me. Never tried the yarn

2. That hasn't happened to me yet....Knocks on wood

3. I've read that the coils probably come built with Nickel/nichrome. In order to achieve the low resistance. But I use 28 A-1 Kanthal....cuz thats what I have lol! Anyway, in order for me to get it to .5 ohm, I use 3 wraps on 3.0mm with 2 strands together (parallel coil?). Essentially 6 wraps, but halfing the resistance.

4. IDK. Probably. I think that is what they are built with from the factory.

5. No idea.

6. N/A

Ive tried wicking them several ways, with success and failures...leaking, dry hits etc. I currently use a modified version of what this guy does in his Kayfun (see video). I remove on side of the Koh Gen Do and "joint" roll it like him. Slip it through the head and coil, and "brush" the ends with a needle until it's really wispy. Then I cut the ends off, leaving about 1/8" of fine wisp hanging out. Works awesome for me.

 

[Dioxyde]

I rebuilt a few of the occ heads with 26g kanthal and cotton, good wicking was much trickier than I anticipated but I had no burning insulators. I attached the coils to an rda deck and ran some current through them by pulsing several times and getting them nice and hot before installing in the OCC, I have been told that should make hot legs a non-issue, more so than treating with a flame, I'm not sure of the science behind it but figured better safe than sorry, and in any case my insulators didn't burn at all when I was trying it out. And then my Goblin came in the mail... lol.

/shrug

 

[WickedBad]

I would get some sheets of Japanese cotton. It works great and is very easy to work with. I am rebuilding using 25g 5wraps spaced on a 3mm bit. 3mm is the perfect size to line up with the wicking holes on the casing. I rebuild with the 25g 3mm for a 200 heat flux at 20w which is where I run these in my nano. These are extremely easy to rebuild imo.

Cotton with free shipping 20 Pack - Japanese 100% Organic Unbleached Cotton Squares Pads / Wick | Master of Clouds

Coil build calc Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

 

[Taylor7617]

I rebuilt a few of the occ heads with 26g kanthal and cotton, good wicking was much trickier than I anticipated but I had no burning insulators. I attached the coils to an rda deck and ran some current through them by pulsing several times and getting them nice and hot before installing in the OCC, I have been told that should make hot legs a non-issue, more so than treating with a flame, I'm not sure of the science behind it but figured better safe than sorry, and in any case my insulators didn't burn at all when I was trying it out. And then my Goblin came in the mail... lol.
/shrug

So, do you put the entire coil with long legs on an rda deck and heat all of it then install into the OCC and trim the legs as needed? I don't understand how that would prevent the legs from heating up in the OCC when the coil still heats. Is there a video of this anywhere that I can see as an example.

I see the Goblin is another option and it's glass. What's your thought on this vs the Subtank?

I would get some sheets of Japanese cotton. It works great and is very easy to work with. I am rebuilding using 25g 5wraps spaced on a 3mm bit. 3mm is the perfect size to line up with the wicking holes on the casing. I rebuild with the 25g 3mm for a 200 heat flux at 20w which is where I run these in my nano. These are extremely easy to rebuild imo.

Cotton with free shipping 20 Pack - Japanese 100% Organic Unbleached Cotton Squares Pads / Wick | Master of Clouds

So... you spend $3 a sheet for your cotton (only if ordering over 50 sheets or $150+)? DAYUM .... I didn't spend $3 on the entire roll of yarn and I've been rewicking PT2 coils for almost 2 years and not even half way through the roll, lol. How many coils rewicks can you get per sheet?

 

[WickedBad]

So... you spend $3 a sheet for your cotton (only if ordering over 50 sheets or $150+)? DAYUM .... I didn't spend $3 on the entire roll of yarn and I've been rewicking PT2 coils for almost 2 years and not even half way through the roll, lol. How many coils rewicks can you get per sheet?

Huh? it is 20 sheets for 6 dollars. I seperate the sheets in half and I get 5-6 per split sheet. That is 200+ wicks for $6

 

[Taylor7617]

Ok, sorry....... i missed that.

 

[Taylor7617]

So, how long (in general) does your wick last using that Japanese cotton? 1 - 2 tanks before it needs changed?

Is it similar/same to KGD ?
Does it also have the outer hard layers of "skin" ....and if so, do you use it or pull it off?

Related to thethickness of your wick..do you cut it so it's just smaller or just larger than the coil/hole to feed it through? Is there one video you recommend watching to get a visual on this?

Thanks,

 

[dleister1981]

NR-R-NR legs dont really heat up enough to burn the insulator

 

[dleister1981]

Huh? it is 20 sheets for 6 dollars. I seperate the sheets in half and I get 5-6 per split sheet. That is 200+ wicks for $6

you can get 120 sheets on ebay for less than $10 after shipping just search Muji cotton

 

[Taylor7617]

Can the SubTank OCC be dry-burned or is this not recommended?

Just wondering how you all are really getting the coil cleaned prior to a rewick (either of stock coil or rebuild).

 

[dleister1981]

Can the SubTank OCC be dry-burned or is this not recommended?

Just wondering how you all are really getting the coil cleaned prior to a rewick (either of stock coil or rebuild).

with the stock coils yes as it non resistance-resistance wire, if you wrap a new coil it isnt recomended

 

[Taylor7617]

OK - so does anyone know where a person can pick up NR-R-NR premade coils or wire that could be used for ST? I found some on the FT site ... but wire is super thin with small diameter coil so wouldn't work for this application.


I read somewhere that after a coil is made that instead of heating the coil with flame/torch, if you were to pass electricity through it (by use of another RBA) it would eliminate the legs from heating up? Anyone have experience with this? I plan to test this weekend ... just curious.

 

[MacTechVpr]

OK - so does anyone know where a person can pick up NR-R-NR premade coils or wire that could be used for ST? I found some on the FT site ... but wire is super thin with small diameter coil so wouldn't work for this application.


I read somewhere that after a coil is made that instead of heating the coil with flame/torch, if you were to pass electricity through it (by use of another RBA) it would eliminate the legs from heating up? Anyone have experience with this? I plan to test this weekend ... just curious.

I looked for a response from you as I didn't see one to my answer here...Just vape, no guessing...

The way to avoid having to torch and squeeze contact coils into a final form suitable for oxidation is to use strain. The subject of more than a few posts covering my research on the subject on the Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

Taylor if you want a productive reliable vape you can have one in the next few days if you're typical of most people that try.

Shout out on the above thread for someone to help out.

If not tap me on the shoulder.

Good luck.

 

[Dioxyde]

So, do you put the entire coil with long legs on an rda deck and heat all of it then install into the OCC and trim the legs as needed? I don't understand how that would prevent the legs from heating up in the OCC when the coil still heats. Is there a video of this anywhere that I can see as an example.

I see the Goblin is another option and it's glass. What's your thought on this vs the Subtank?



So... you spend $3 a sheet for your cotton (only if ordering over 50 sheets or $150+)? DAYUM .... I didn't spend $3 on the entire roll of yarn and I've been rewicking PT2 coils for almost 2 years and not even half way through the roll, lol. How many coils rewicks can you get per sheet?

Taylor I'm not entirely sure about how it works, all I can say is I tried it per someones recommendation and I was able to rebuild the OCC heads without burning any rubber using regular kanthal, and yes you would put the entire coil on an rda deck with the actual coil close to the deck as if you were gonna wick it. The Goblin and Subtank are different devices, Goblin has no OCC option but that's ok with me because I hate using stock coils, Subtank OG has a bigger capacity, but way less airflow. The subtank has great flavor in rba mode, but when you nail the build on a goblin it compares. I like owning both of them, however, if I could only keep one, it would be the Goblin no question.

 

[Taylor7617]

I looked for a response from you as I didn't see one to my answer here...Just vape, no guessing...

The way to avoid having to torch and squeeze contact coils into a final form suitable for oxidation is to use strain. The subject of more than a few posts covering my research on the subject on the Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

Taylor if you want a productive reliable vape you can have one in the next few days if you're typical of most people that try.

Shout out on the above thread for someone to help out.

If not tap me on the shoulder.

Good luck.

Mac - apologies as I lost track of the other thread. I'm going to read through the PT Microcoil thread and see if I can get some pointers to improve those (that I already do) as well as apply that to the ST once I receive it and get a chance to work on it.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Mac - apologies as I lost track of the other thread. I'm going to read through the PT Microcoil thread and see if I can get some pointers to improve those (that I already do) as well as apply that to the ST once I receive it and get a chance to work on it.

Like I said T, lots of experienced vets on the PTM thread that have been successful perfecting the use of tension. That includes super_X_drifter who conceived the microcoil. There's so many ST threads showing up I can't track them all or have the time to respond to everyone at this point, inquire, comment or add to the discussion in all instances. I try to pick good candidates and walk them through the process along with others and hope those lurking will tag along.

Nudge me if you need.

Good luck.