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I have rebuilt dozens of the OCC heads. You don't need NR-R-NR to prevent scorching the insulator. Just be sure to torch the coil before you install it and DON'T dry burn it once it is installed. There is still a chance it can burn the insulator, but since the red insulators came out I have not had one burn.
Edit: and what Psofos said, contact coils take time to even out, so they are not ideal in this application.
Edit: and what Psofos said, contact coils take time to even out, so they are not ideal in this application.
Sorry to be a bit stupid, but are you finding the red ones better? and NOT to test fire a plain (unwicked) coil before wicking? Thanks.. I'm finding all tips a great help.
I think the red are better, not that there is much of a choice anyway, I haven't seen the white ones in a while.
Correct, don't test fire it once you have it installed. It is fine to do that on a typical RBA, but not in this circumstance. Pre-torching the coil (or you can use a simple lighter if you don't have a torch) will help even it out before you install it.
You don't need to test fire it. Make the coil evenly spaced,check ohms and it will work ok. Torching it without wicked cotton and airflow will raise the temp of the wire and might burn the insulator. Spaced coil-no dry burn-no burned insulator
Great... so NO test.
I test everything.... whoops. Too used to 'real' rebuildable atomizers.
I test everything.... whoops. Too used to 'real' rebuildable atomizers.
I'd still measure your resistance, but nope, no real test lol.Great... so NO test.
I test everything.... whoops. Too used to 'real' rebuildable atomizers.
Another tip for making spaced coils easily is to use a 6-32 machine screw (2.5mm ID) or a 8-32 (3mm ID). With Kanthal I did 5 wraps around a 6-32 and the resistance came out to .7 or .8Ω, with Nichrome (what the stock OCC uses) the same build came out to .5Ω. Obviously you will need to remove the coil from the screw before you install it, but holding it in place with a comparable sized screwdriver while you install it should yield good results. You are also going to need to trim those leads practically flush.
Wicking them, you should try to mimic the factory OCC as much as possible. I always cut the wick leaving about 1.5mm exposed, then tucked the excess inside the hole as evenly as possible. When done you probably couldn't distinguish mine from the factory. Never leaked and hit the same as the factory coils. Good luck, once you get the hang of it, it becomes a pretty simple process.
Wicking them, you should try to mimic the factory OCC as much as possible. I always cut the wick leaving about 1.5mm exposed, then tucked the excess inside the hole as evenly as possible. When done you probably couldn't distinguish mine from the factory. Never leaked and hit the same as the factory coils. Good luck, once you get the hang of it, it becomes a pretty simple process.
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