Kanger SubTank RTA

[John11]

Hi, ive been using an old iLeaf with an Aspire tank which is great, however, i want something with a bigger battery ,tank, and something i can kind of easily rebuild. I've been looking at the Kanger Subtank RTA. now theres 2 kinds, one mini and one regular.
1- the mini is just a smaller tank correct? 4 Ml vs 7 Ml.
2- The reason I'd like to have the option of rebuilding the coil is that im going to Dubai for a few months and it will be hard to find the atomizers there, and they are expensive to buy like 20 to take there with me. Anyways, this shop around me is selling these.
Im looking to buy the new iLeaf 50W, which has a bigger battery, and easy to use still, and buy one of these tanks. ive watched a few tutorials on youtube about rebuilding the coil and it doesnt look too hard. just another question.

with this tank, i have the option to use the already built Kanger heads, which is square like, or make my own coil with cotton and the wire right? which shouldn't be expensive. Will the vapor and flavor be worst if i make it myself compared to the already authentic built one? and the price for the cotton and the wire is cheap right?
Also, if im using the rebuildable base, there is no need for the premade one right? I have the option to choose either one?

AND ive seen videos where they actually rebuild the stock coil as well. which one is better? the RTA base rebuild or rebuilding the stock coil? so i can just use the one or two stock coils that comes with the tank and keep rebuilding those?


Thanks and sorry for the long post
[h=2][/h]

 

[stormjib]

I'm no expert but I own both the subtank and the subtank mini. I run them both on my Istick50 with no problem. The mini's airflow is a bit better than the full-sized one, imo, and I've never had leaks with the mini. With the fullsized one, leaks have been a constant issue although I think I finally have the solution, more cotton on one side of the coil head. I rebuild the Kanger heads with no problem, and much prefer doing that to rebuilding the rta base, and it's easy and works well. There is a learning curve and you can burn or break insulators so I"d suggest bringing an extra box of five coils, it's nice to be able to have one or more on hand to look at for comparison's sake, if nothing else. I take the top cap off the premade coils when i rebuild them, but I see on youtube that's not possible

 

[John11]

anyone else? bump!

 

[RandyF]

The full size has a larger tank, but is also 25mm, which will overhang on 22mm devices. The Mini (actually normal size) is 22mm, which will fit most common mods.

Rebuilding is very simple, where you usually hit a learning curve is the wicking. Japanese cotton (Labo or KGD) is the easiest route, and the most common. Rebuilding the OCC heads is a pretty simple process as well, and the wicking is easier to get right. Where you might have a problem with rebuilding these is the rubber insulator. You have to be very careful not to scorch these by dry firing the coil. Even if you do everything right, it is still a possibility.

You can get 100' of 26g kanthal (TEMCO) and a bag of Labo cotton for less than $15 and it will last you quite some time (the cotton likely for years).

If you choose to rebuild either the RBA or the OCC heads, just make sure you keep a couple of the stock OCC's on hand in case you need it.

 

[djsvapour]

I've failed in all my attempts to rebuild the OCC. I can't explain it. (Nano)

I bet if I had the RBA deck, I'd get it right first time.

Might have to order a Mini and find out.

 

[nyiddle]

I'd definitely recommend the iStick 50W. It's a damn nice device, I have one on the way.

1. Yes, I'm pretty sure the full size is 6mL (or like 4.8mL with the RBA section instead of the pre-built head), and the mini is 4mL, regardless of the RBA section/pre-built head.

2. The ability to rebuild rather than use the heads is a great plus. If you've never built before, I'd suggest checking out a buncha resources/practicing a little before your trip. It's worth getting down, although, with my RBA section I built the most BASIC coil I've ever built (not even contact coils -- old-skool style) and they work phenomenally. So you definitely don't need a lot of build experience, the wicking is a little tricky but honestly I just kinda cram it in there and I've had no leaks thus far.

The Kanger actually comes with coils already built on the deck (I think they ohm out to .6?) but since it's China, I assume the worst of the wire quality, and I didn't use it at all.

How long is your trip? A 5-pack of coils costs about 20 bucks, and so far a 5 pack has lasted me well over 2 months.

 

[CynikalMindset]

rebuilding on the subtank is easy and fast...the coils that come with the RBA section are fine quality and ohm out at .5-.6 I've gone down to .2 with some custom coils. My atlantis has been retired since picking up the subtank mini since I hate buying coil heads and if you switch flavours frequently then you will be switching coil heads just as often. with the RBA deck just take old wick out, burn off and rewick and be back to vaping in 5 minutes or less.

here is my most recent subtank mini build

 

[John11]

wow that pic looks awesome, hope ill make some of those or something close to it . one more thing. someone mentioned the regular Subtank is 6 ML but if i wanna rebuild the coil and use that base, it will be 4.8 ML?
and the Mini one is 4 ML regardless of which base is used?
and the Nano cant be rebuilt ? and I guess the Mini would be better since it will fit nicely and not be bigger than the device?

 

[Ou2mame]

The rba deck is larger than pre-built coils. So you will lose some capacity, regardless of tank. I believe you lose 1.5ml?

 

[Hfs Vapr]

I'm surprised no one has said it but on the full size one in order to use the rta you have to change out the top piece but not on the mini

 

[m00shie]

I do not believe you will lose much. Note that the old regular Subtank has been discontinued and has been replaced by an entirely new one called Subtank Plus which is 7ML tank.

Differences between the old is that you no longer require to change the top base to use RBA. It has been rebuild based on Subtank Mini which means that it will work similar like the Mini with a bigger tank capactiy. So you should have the same (or almost) amount of liquid using both heads.

If you intend to purchase...make sure it's the new Subtank Plus and not the old Subtank.

 

[Ou2mame]

Just curious, does the subtank plus use the subtank mini rba head?

Nevermind, it does. Answered my own question lol

 

[Swordsbeer]

Kind of funny, the plus just includes the new mini rba instead of the old one.