Kanger T3, 3 heads down in 8 days

[WorksForMe]

What thread are some of you talking about? The Kanger T3 doesn't have 510 threads, only the threads on the inside of the skirt that screws onto the outer thread of the eGo style battery connectors.

If anyone is trying to rotate or move the power connector inside the skirt of the Kanger T3 it is going to break the connection to the heating coil.

Errol

+1 on not moving the center post. I tryed to pull up a little on the post on one after I had screwed it on an X2 battery (big mistake). The whole post and the rubber grommet came out, and I couldn't get them back in with the wires in the right place. Oh well, I'm going to try to wind a new coil for it. I ordered some wire and 2mm wicking from Stormy's. I hope that's the right size.

I love these T3s. The one I'm using now wasn't wicking very well. I took off the center tube, took out one of the loose wicks, and dry burned it. Now it seems better than new.

J.R.

 

[Susaz]

What thread are some of you talking about? The Kanger T3 doesn't have 510 threads, only the threads on the inside of the skirt that screws onto the outer thread of the eGo style battery connectors.

If anyone is trying to rotate or move the power connector inside the skirt of the Kanger T3 it is going to break the connection to the heating coil.

Errol

I use nothing but eGo batteries, with eGo threading. The last head went out on the 21st, while I was dry burning it. It didn't pop, simply stopped working. Took the center column off, and found out (again) one of the leads were broken.

I had no contact problems with this last one, I had high hopes it would last a little longer. At 2.50 a pop, I prefer a CE3 catomizer or a carto tank.

 

[Jason_brent]

When you get the new Kanger T3s i would suggest pulling them a part and checking the coils because both the ones i got the coils where really close together creating hot spots not sure if any one else has suggested this but its something i noticed