Kangertech Aerotank Turbo + Mech Mod

[Marduk]

Hello there, I have lurked pretty extensively on here and am not able to find an answer to some of these questions. I'm sure the answer is out there, I just am having trouble finding it.

I have been vaping for about 18 months with some ego types and Kanger pro tanks. Recently I've gotten into higher end types. A couple of weeks ago I was talked into an eLeaf iStick with an Aspire Nautilus. Then a few days ago I was sold on a Kanger Aerotank Turbo by a fellow customer at my B&M. (He was using the iStick with it as well) well, what they didn't tell me was that the iStick wouldn't fire the Turbo as with two 1.8 coils, as that puts it at .9 total ohms.

I really like the turbo based on it barely working when I first got it. So, I would like to have something that can power it. Anyway, I went to the B&M today to ask about this pickle I've found myself in. He originally offered me a return on the iStick towards another battery, but, it seems I am too rough with my vapes. Ha.

So, another solution that presented itself was a mech mod clone they had in the store. Now, are clones problematic? This was fairly cheap at 39.99. He hooked it up at first with a 30 amp 18650 battery and let me try it on my Turbo. It was a bit harsh for me. He then put in a 10 amp battery and it seemed perfect. Now with all of these topics of battery safety. I was hesitant and decided to come home and research on here. When trying to find some information about this, I saw that the turbo should not be on a mech mod with less than 30 amps. Is this true? I am having trouble finding the basics of mech mods.

I am not finding any dual coil units online above 1.8 ohms to just skip this problem altogether.

TL;DR:

Are mech mod clones reliable?
Do I need a minimum amperage to run my Aerotank Turbo on a mech mod safely?
is there a beginners guide to mech mods?

Thanks in advance!

 

[BigBoyBlue]

The mech mod clones I own work great. I have a fasttech nemesis clone and an infinite 4Nine clone. They have been very reliable and function very well. I haven't anyone complain to me about any clones they own.

Ohm's Law Calculator

The above link is ohms law calculator. You only need to know two of the values and it will tell you the other two. If you know the resistance of your coil and the voltage of your battery it will tell you the required amps and the watts. This is a good way to tell what amp output you are required to have to run your setup. In your case a 10 amp battery is sufficient. That being said get one that is 20 amps or greater because if you get a mech mod it is only a mtter of time before you get an RDA and next thing you know you sub-ohm.

I'm sure there are beginner guides but I don't have any links. Maybe someone else will post a link for you. Other than that I read through a variety of threads on this forum and got the information I needed. It can also help if you have a trustworthy B&M that will give you guidance. It is good to get informed before you make any purchases so kudos to you

 

[Niten13]

Marduk,

There is not an actual straight guide as far as I know and I recently purchased my mech and batteries. I actually spent a week doing homework before I went in to buy and here is what I have.
The mech clones should be fine as I have not heard anything seriously bad about them, Mechs don't have any protection though so you have to do a little research first. Since you are not going to a RBA/RDA yet i would say you should read up as much as possible on batteries and battery safety first, getting a good charger, Im using a Nitecore D2. You will need to be familiar with OHMs Law and how it can effect your battery, Make sure the mech you are getting has air flow out of the tube! Mine does not and I need to drill holes in case of battery ventilation. I would suggest the 30 amp battery just to be safe, if you end up doing rebuilds you will want the nice high amp limit of that battery of course i am running .55 ohms DC right now and only using 8.4 amps but its just nice to have. Here are a few helpful articles and ill try to post a few more on mech mods for you!

Vape Safely

Battery Safety and Ohm's Law - onVaping
A Basic Guide for Mechanical Mods and Safety - onVaping

 

[GinnyTx]

ha! lets see Ed had to have that Turbo (which is on the classifieds here I might add) we bought a Stringray big one, that didn't do it..needed variable volt, the iStick will run it but will not sub ohm (if you've got four dual 1.0 ohm coils that's 0.5ohms so iStick's out)..but the hit will kill your lungs...I forget what else we tried..but the consensus at the B&M when it was tossed around with "ooohs and ahhhhhs" it's so big!" *lol*

was a Hana DNA mod'll fire it up..if that's your thing...

 

[Susan~S]

He hooked it up at first with a 30 amp 18650 battery and let me try it on my Turbo. It was a bit harsh for me. He then put in a 10 amp battery and it seemed perfect.

The only reason the 10A battery was not as harsh as the 30A battery was because it was not fully charged. Both batteries are 4.2v fully charged. If you did not like the 30A fully charged battery you will not like running your Turbo on a mech mod (at 0.9 ohms).

A solution would be to get a variable w/v mod that can fire sub-ohm builds AND run at voltages below 4.2v. With a mech mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to install a new coil. With a high vv/vw regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button. On a mechanical mod your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit.

Now with all of these topics of battery safety. I was hesitant and decided to come home and research on here. When trying to find some information about this, I saw that the turbo should not be on a mech mod with less than 30 amps. Is this true? I am having trouble finding the basics of mech mods.

Yes, that is what the manufacturer is recommending. Even though a 0.9ohm coil doesn't need 30A battery to be safe, the Turbo can use lower ohm coils that may need a 30A battery to be safely used.

 

[Ed Kindred]

Hello there, I have lurked pretty extensively on here and am not able to find an answer to some of these questions. I'm sure the answer is out there, I just am having trouble finding it.

I have been vaping for about 18 months with some ego types and Kanger pro tanks. Recently I've gotten into higher end types. A couple of weeks ago I was talked into an eLeaf iStick with an Aspire Nautilus. Then a few days ago I was sold on a Kanger Aerotank Turbo by a fellow customer at my B&M. (He was using the iStick with it as well) well, what they didn't tell me was that the iStick wouldn't fire the Turbo as with two 1.8 coils, as that puts it at .9 total ohms.

I really like the turbo based on it barely working when I first got it. So, I would like to have something that can power it. Anyway, I went to the B&M today to ask about this pickle I've found myself in. He originally offered me a return on the iStick towards another battery, but, it seems I am too rough with my vapes. Ha.

So, another solution that presented itself was a mech mod clone they had in the store. Now, are clones problematic? This was fairly cheap at 39.99. He hooked it up at first with a 30 amp 18650 battery and let me try it on my Turbo. It was a bit harsh for me. He then put in a 10 amp battery and it seemed perfect. Now with all of these topics of battery safety. I was hesitant and decided to come home and research on here. When trying to find some information about this, I saw that the turbo should not be on a mech mod with less than 30 amps. Is this true? I am having trouble finding the basics of mech mods.

I am not finding any dual coil units online above 1.8 ohms to just skip this problem altogether.

TL;DR:

Are mech mod clones reliable?
Do I need a minimum amperage to run my Aerotank Turbo on a mech mod safely?
is there a beginners guide to mech mods?

Thanks in advance!

I have a Turbo in the drawer. I first bought a Kamry Bacchus, 3800 mah regulated battery, to power it and it seemed to dry hit all the time so I put it on the MVP. Same story so I bought a Stingray, a 26650 un-regulated mod. Different kind of dry hit. I keep alot of Kanger coils so I did some coil swapping. It came with 2 1.6 ohm coils so I tried 2.4, 2.0, 1.2 1 & 0.8 ohm coils in it. The best results came with the 2.4 ohm coils on the Istick. My conclusion ? It will take a healthy regulated Mod, ie DNA 30, to run it and the wicks will still have trouble keeping up. It's in the drawer & I would happily swap it for a Mega.