Someone told me you can rebuild these but I can't see how to take it apart. Are these rebuildable?
Kangertech ProTank
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Very rebuildable. I've rebuilt both my PT2 and miniPT2. IMO it's a necessity in order to get these things running right.
Hit up YouTube and search ProTank rebuild.
Hit up YouTube and search ProTank rebuild.
It's not a proper rebuildable, but people rebuild them; myself included.
A proper rebuildable like the kayfun and russian, have posts and screws or nuts for you to terminate the coil wire.
A proper rebuildable like the kayfun and russian, have posts and screws or nuts for you to terminate the coil wire.
Id start with a old burnt out head, heat it up some and slightly dryburn it. Remove the old wick carefully leaving the coil intact. Slight dryburn to clean the naked coil( too much heat and you'll burn the insulator and head will taste burnt all the time), get a Qtip swab and twist it pointy, insert into naked coil, trim, prime with juice and put it all back together and have a vape. Easiest to do with brand new coils and you can use the flavor wicks but not usually with cotton builds. I did the Qtip cotton build as my first attempt and haven't looked back.
The coil is contained within the base of the ProTank. Check YouTube for a bunch of videos on how to rebuild the coils and wicks.
Here is a good start. I personally use 30 guage wire, 7/8 wraps, 1/16 drill bit, 1.8 ohms every time, and cotton.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/463771-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/463771-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do.html
I have two rebuilt ProTank 2 coils right now with 28g Kanthal. One is a 1.4 ohm, somewhere around 8-10 wraps, started off as a vertical coil and wasn't pleased with it so I broke it back down and set it horizontal. Works great that way. The other is .8 ohm, 6 wraps I think. Kickin' performance out of this one. Gives me a nice warm vape with a lot of flavor in the PT2. I also have a third that came out at .7 ohm. My iTaste VV won't fire this one and it's too risky to run on my cheap Bold battery. Waiting til I get my mech this weekend to play with that one some more.
Once my roll of Kanthal comes in I'll be experimenting with dual coils and possibly even triple.
Once my roll of Kanthal comes in I'll be experimenting with dual coils and possibly even triple.
I don't know how you get that many wraps of 28 gauge into a Pro Tank head but i like 30 or 32 gauge for Pro Tanks, much easier to fit in there .
I love 28 on Kayfun's though , double and triple coils on a Pro Tank
holy cow man lol.I don't know how you get that many wraps of 28 gauge into a Pro Tank head but i like 30 or 32 gauge for Pro Tanks, much easier to fit in there .
I love 28 on Kayfun's though , double and triple coils on a Pro Tank
Well the PT3 already come dual coiled, so there's that lol. I've also seen a pic of three coils in a PT2. Rip Tripper has also done a 4 coil diamond in a ProTank.
It was pretty easy, and these were my first and only coils so far. I don't have my own wire yet (in the mail) so one of the girls at the vape shop gave me some of her own wire to work with.
I was wrong, it's 11 wraps. First or second coil I've made. I wrapped them around a 14g piercing needle, I have tons of them in my kit so no loss using one. They also work well for getting inside a coil to manipulate the individual rings if you don't want them touching.
This is in my Mini ProTank 2.
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This^^^ I do the exact same build for my PT2's, and they are just wonderful. I use the same coil in my Kayfuns too. Sometimes simple is good.
I still have my vertical and dual coil PT heads. I never did get the wicking issues ironed out with the vertical, but the dual side by side produces a great vape. Thinkin bout going another round with those builds.
I now use 6 wraps 30 gauge with hemp fiber, getting 1.6ohm in my builds and with the Provari's and kicks I have found the sweet spot for my protank builds. I used 32 gauge for the longest time and got tired of the coil warping, distorting and kinking when your rewicking. The 30 is a bit thicker and IMO stands up much better than the 32 in the long run.
I now use 6 wraps 30 gauge with hemp fiber, getting 1.6ohm in my builds and with the Provari's and kicks I have found the sweet spot for my protank builds. I used 32 gauge for the longest time and got tired of the coil warping, distorting and kinking when your rewicking. The 30 is a bit thicker and IMO stands up much better than the 32 in the long run.
That looks pretty sweet right there. I don't think I can do it with my 28g, at least not the dual coil unless I can manage nano coils. I tried a vertical coil and wasn't really impressed with it. Probably because I couldn't figure out a good way to wick it. I tried a few variations but it just didn't perform well. I have my wire now so I'll give it another go sooner or later.
EDIT: Are those separate coils or is it a figure 8/infinity coil? I think I'm going to try a figure 8.
Do you mean popping, or gurgling and spitting? Are you getting juice in your mouth?
If it's just popping, audible only, then that's fine. That's the sweet sound of vaping.
If it's gurgling and spitting and you're drinking your juice, well... (I almost returned my PT2 because of this when I first got it, took a couple days of researching to finally fix it)
You might have to play around with how you wick it. I've been using slightly more cotton than I used to, just so it's ever so slightly tighter than snug inside the coil, and then I put just as much on top for a flavor wick. Also try running two of the bowel shaped seals. Put one on how it was meant to be, and the put another on facing the other direction. You might have to push a little to get it started threading when you install the base back onto the tank. It could also be how you draw from the device. Long slow pulls are the key in vaping. Another possibility is your vg/pg ratio. I run high vg, either 100% or 70/30. The thicker liquid won't wick as fast.
Another thing is airflow. The PT2 has piss poor airflow by default. When you're drawing on it you're creating a vacuum in the tank and it's pulling more liquid to the wick. The tighter the draw, and the harder you draw, the more vacuum you make. If you pull more liquid than it can vaporize in that time, it floods and you end up with the gurgle. It's a fine line to balance this.
These tanks have two design flaws that cause this.
So I have two fixes for that.
1. The silicone sleeve that the 510 contact fits in over compresses when you tighten it down. One of mine was so bad that it had zero (completely sealed) airflow out of the box.
Fix: http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/1ui04z/kanger_protank_no_airflow_fix_here/
2. The air holes are just too small. Way too small.
My fix: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tank-mods/572104-drilled-my-pt2-base.html
I had to do all of these fixes to get my PT2 functioning correctly.
A little side bar. These things work based on physics and fluid dynamics. Outside influences can even be a problem with this style tank. I learned this today. I was leaving work, I went from a cool air conditioned building to outside where it was warm and humid. That change caused the pressure in the tank to change (air and liquid expand when they heat up) and I literally had a juice explosion. This was maybe a 10 degree difference. My device was in a bag so I didn't even notice until I was home. I had a nice mess to clean up. A little longer and my iTaste VV 3 might have been trashed.
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It's really the 510 connection that causes the problem.
I use the bases from miniprotanks onto my protanks to deal with the 3 problems: airflow, physical/mechanical wobble, electrical.
30 ga or 28 ga either one, wind to 1.4 to 1.6 ohm, install vertical coil, cotton wick around the outside of the coil pretty much filling up the chimney. All airflow comes up the coil center, wicks great. This is my favorite PT2 build. And you need the Aerobase.
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