Kangertech subtank OCC V-2 rebuild

[byggd]

I have seen lots of vids on rebuilding a OCC V-1 horizontal and vertical coils but I'm having trouble finding one for the V-2. The V-1 main body can me separated to give easy access for a rebuild however this is not the case with the V-2.

Can it be rebuilt? Anyone attempted this?

-Don

 

[hiram13pm]

Bump... I'm looking into this myself. Waiting for this V-2 I'm using to die so I can do an autopsy on it & see what I can figure out.

 

[hiram13pm]

Update: I'm Mr. Impatient, so I just went ahead and stripped one down.

The fine people at Kanger seem to have gone out of their way to make it hard to do. The older style seems to have been modified with a metal insert, which makes an already tight space even harder to work in... so tight, in fact, that one of the coil legs on the V-2 seems to have its own insulation coating applied. Guess they want us to keep dropping five bucks every couple of weeks, eh?

The rubber gasket and positive pin seem to be the same, so at least I can keep those as backup parts for the V-1 bodies I have (two of em). I plan on getting out the dremel and cutting this thing open, since I can't quite figure out how that insert got in there in the first place; if there's a way to remove it, V-2 bodies could be rebuilt with horizontal coils just like the old V-1s. Which would be fine with me, since I think the airflow on the V-2 sucks. Literally, it makes me feel like I'm having to suck on something rather than inhale.

If I figure something out, I'll update here again. For now, I don't see an easy way.

 

[Nuggit]

You'll have to screw it into some kind of base with 510 thread, twist as you pull. But i like the v1s, lots of room to build, verts fit fine. Just wish i could get more grommets!

 

[hiram13pm]

You'll have to screw it into some kind of base with 510 thread, twist as you pull. But i like the v1s, lots of room to build, verts fit fine. Just wish i could get more grommets!

Cannibalize them from dead V-2's

 

[byggd]

Thanks for the replies and extra effort. "can't quite figure out how that insert got in there in the first place" This was my quandary too. If someone perfects a rebuild on these units a video would be mush appreciated!

 

[WharfRat1976]

 

[godfatherI]

why not just use the RBA section? The v2 RBA is the same setup.

 

[WharfRat1976]

why not just use the RBA section? The v2 RBA is the same setup.

Why deal with screw down posts when you don't have to and to put a 13 wrap spaced nickel coil on the RBA would be impossible unless I wanted 20mm leads and still would be impossible. Plus, the pin hole juice channels on the RBA section are a joke rendering it useless for any higher VG joose.

 

[tomitom12]

v1 coils are your only option v2's are solid all around so its impossible to rebuild which sucks cause i like the v2

 

[WharfRat1976]

v1 coils are your only option v2's are solid all around so its impossible to rebuild which sucks cause i like the v2

I need to buy a pack of nickel coils fir the sub or the atlantis...just to check em out. The coil I built is chucking large plumes loaded with flavor.

 

[byggd]

Do you get popping with this build? I switched to vertical coils because I got tired of burning my tongue.

 

[WharfRat1976]

Do you get popping with this build? I switched to vertical coils because I got tired of burning my tongue.

Yes, but minimal with first pulse then it flattens out with no spitting.

This coil is a crackler though. A little crackle then it smooths out. Once it's heated it's fine. I have it on a regular Subtank so a good long shaft and tall drip tip keeps it away from my mouth. Here's a pic.

 

[WharfRat1976]

Do you get popping with this build? I switched to vertical coils because I got tired of burning my tongue.

Are you building verticals on the RBA section? Those pin hole juice channels are a joke.

 

[gadgetkeith]

for those who want to rebuild the later style vertical occ v2 heads

all you need to do is use the base section to hold the coil shell

screw the ready to rebuild shell into a kanger base fairly tight with fingers

then using a pair of pliers grab the shell itself and pull while giving a slight twist and the complete outer comes off

the first time you do it ,its pretty tight to come off but after a few builds you dont need to use the pliers any more can be done just using fingers

to reveal a inner section then either using fingers or pliers unscrew the remaining part of the coil from the base

remove the bottom contact pin and insulator grommet same as the older coils vert and horizontal etc

the later pin is thicker than the older style and grommet is thinner but as long as you keep pins and grommets together they will interchange between old and new bodies no probs

then you can remove the guts ie coil and wick etc

and you are ready to rebuild like the older v1 vertical heads but without the top cap hassle

another good thing with these newer heads is you can drill out the wicking holes larger for extra juice flow

and if in the highly unlikely chance you then have too much juice flow to the wick all you do is twist the outer shell section to slightly offset the hole alignment and you can pretty much adjust this to control the juice flow

i have seen where some have drilled out the blank sides of the shell so you then have four juice holes the extra two to align with the slots on the inner section for a occ cloud build

hope this helps those wanting to rebuild the newer occ coils that look like one piece

also looking around the web with some of the super fine clapton wire now available its now poss to rebuild like them gold plated expensive ones

 

[byggd]

hope this helps those wanting to rebuild the newer occ coils that look like one piece

This is VERY helpful, thanks! I'm new to this rebuilding stuff and I just hope I don't damage the base of my ST mini while pulling the coil unit apart.

 

[godfatherI]

Why deal with screw down posts when you don't have to and to put a 13 wrap spaced nickel coil on the RBA would be impossible unless I wanted 20mm leads and still would be impossible. Plus, the pin hole juice channels on the RBA section are a joke rendering it useless for any higher VG joose.

Take the point on length of coil, but screw down posts are NBD. And, while the v1 has pin holes, the v2 has the same size juice holes as the premade.

 

[Flt Simulation]

What I understand is that ...

The Subtank OCC V1 coil head has a horizontal coil and can easily be re-coiled.
(this coil head is a 2-piece design).

The Subtank OCC V2 coil head has a vertical coil and are all but impossible to re-coil.
(this coil head is a 1-piece design)
______________________________________

If you look at some of the YouTube videos, you will see that you don't really need to separate the 2-piece body of the OCC V1 horizontal coil head in order to re-coil it.

I have never seen a video where someone actually re-coiled the vertical coil V2 coil head.

 

[tomitom12]

What I understand is that ...

The Subtank OCC V1 coil head has a horizontal coil and can easily be re-coiled.
(this coil head is a 2-piece design).

The Subtank OCC V2 coil head has a vertical coil and are all but impossible to re-coil.
(this coil head is a 1-piece design)
______________________________________

If you look at some of the YouTube videos, you will see that you don't really need to separate the 2-piece body of the OCC V1 horizontal coil head in order to re-coil it.

I have never seen a video where someone actually re-coiled the vertical coil V2 coil head.

it is possible, i've done so. it does work

 

[Nuggit]

Yup I do it all the time. Soooo ez.
Take the top off, remove pin & grommet from da bottom, I spin up 3mm 3/4 wrap 26g coils. Cut a strip of cotton, wrap it up, and insert.