Kangerteck Modified

[Gahh]

Two issues I wanted to fix. The first is the battery run time using the low ohm coils. Second is when the e-liquid gets to the top of the sub ohm coil housing in the Kangertech I've noticed a lot of dry hits when heavy vaping, ( I like a higher VG juice. ) I would find myself closing the air intakes and sucking hard to get the wick saturated, ( a real pain in the .... )
NOTE: I like an airy hit and run the air intake ports full open.
So here's what I did.
I've drilled the wick holes out to 3.5mm in the Kangertech coil housing. Then built a 1.1 ohm coil with 4 strands of 32ga. kanthal, ( twisted together first ), 5 wraps around a 3.47mm screwdriver. The coil was very springy to work with but got a bit stiffer after torching t closed to 1/4" width using adjustable tweezers. I used regular ball cotton for the wick in this experiment. The coil came in at 1.1 ohm.
Primed the wick and filled tank with a little bit of juice, just below the top of the coil housing.
All I can say is WOW. The first 10 hits taste a bit crappy but after the break in, WOW.
Taste and vapor production are great. There's a bit of crackle but no pops. Crackle I don't mind, Pops I mind. The ClouporT8 counted 75 hits and now the e-juice level is just above the wicking ports by a hair and still working great with full open air intake ports.
I will add post after I've used this set up for awhile.
Curious what other think!
VapeOn

 

[hashtag]

Any chance you could post some pictures? I'm a visual learner and am always toying with my subtanks to optimize.

 

[Gahh]

I'm tryin to figure that out now

 

[Gahh]

Showing the larger wicking port through the coil housing.

 

[hashtag]

That actually clarified the part I was missing in my head. Your explanation was clear but my brain was putting it together wrong.

 

[Gahh]

E-juice just above and below top of coil housing not wicking good. Until fixed as noted at top.
Filled tank just to top of coil housing for the test of new wick port hole size. This was after 75 hits and still vaping great with no dry hits.

 

[Gahh]

That actually clarified the part I was missing in my head. Your explanation was clear but my brain was putting it together wrong.

I'm sure you wont be disappointed after drilling it out.
The Gauge loosened up a bit in the photo shoot set up. The actual size is 3.53mm. And the screwdriver is 3.47mm.

 

[Vaping in NYC]

I just ordered these Drill bits, I'm hoping to fix my RBA section. IM GOING to drill holes into the RBA to open up juice channels..

But I will also will be trying ur method.
How many uses do u suppose I can get out of the Coil base, if I rebuild my coils..?


Ur method look like the new KT Subox coils, they defy opened up the juice channels nicely ... I JUST dont know why so many brands have coils with tiny juice channels

 

[Gahh]

For an update.
These 3.5mm drilled out coil housings are preforming great. Out preform stock wicking port holes by 100%.
Not a dry hit or anything close to it.
Taste is all there.
Dependent on your juice, clouds are nice.
As for the coil builds, I've notice the larger diameter coils have a bit higher resistance than the stock 3mm , so I use a larger gauge wire to keep it lower.
Most of the time I pull the top of the coil housing off using 2 pliers (both with the jaws wrapped in electrical tape.) I use a mini hand trigger clamp (that has rubber boots) to squeeze back together.
The 1.0 to 1.2 ohm coil builds give more battery run time, running at around 20 watts / 4 volts. ( On my dT-50 )
I've also noted less crackling with more use and lower wattage.
Though not many have posted on this thread, I'd love to hear from anyone that has modified their Kangertech coils.
As always, VapeOn

 

[Gahh]

I just ordered these Drill bits, I'm hoping to fix my RBA section. IM GOING to drill holes into the RBA to open up juice channels..

But I will also will be trying ur method.
How many uses do u suppose I can get out of the Coil base, if I rebuild my coils..?


Ur method look like the new KT Subox coils, they defy opened up the juice channels nicely ... I JUST dont know why so many brands have coils with tiny juice channels

I've rebuilt one head at least 8 times so far and it still looks and works great.

 

[queevil]

With the larger holes, are you able to vape at a higher wattage due to better wicking? I vape my stock subtank coils at 28 watts with the IPV3. I can go 30 but I get the occasional slightly burnt hit. At 28 it's perfect and I'm satisfied with it. I was just curious.

 

[yuseffuhler]

Just a heads up, the stock OCC appears to be chromed brass. Not a safe metal to be sucking your juice through, potentially. That's why it's chromed. I wouldn't personally do this to it.

 

[Gahh]

Just a heads up, the stock OCC appears to be chromed brass. Not a safe metal to be sucking your juice through, potentially. That's why it's chromed. I wouldn't personally do this to it.

I do appreciate the thought yousffuhler.
What do you think is in the brass that could be harmful? Brass is a metal composed primarily of copper and zinc. Not absolutely positive , but I believe both of these can be found in vitamins. We all like to hear that were vaping something that the USDA approves as [{ Food Grade }]. If cotton was edible ( and USDA approved for consumption ), a dry hit would only be bad tasting and a thread would be ongoing about the best flavored cotton.....
OVERALL
I don't ( and we don't ) know the true science on what vaping does to our bodies, but I'm sure we are all the mice in our own lab .( Some lab mice live long, LOL )
Within many years from now, true facts will surface of the (Cons) of vaping, though we all know our lungs were designed for air only. The (Pros) we can believe today is that vaping is better than smoking.
So today , vaping's OK,
Cause hiting on a smoke, we know is no joke.
VapeOn

 

[edyle]

What do you think is in the brass that could be harmful. Brass is a metal composed primarily of copper and zinc. Not absolutely positive , but I believe both of those can be found in vitamins.
I don't ( and we don't ) know any true science on vaping, but I'm sure we are all the mice in our own lab .( Some lab mice live long, LOL )
Within many years from now facts will surface of the pros and cons of vaping, though we all know our lungs were designed for air only.
Till the day , vaping's OK,
Cause hiting on a smoke, we know is no joke.
VapeOn

"Chromed brass".
It's not the brass people have a concern with, it's the chromium.
Same issue comes up with NiCHROME versus Kanthal.

 

[yuseffuhler]

What do you think is in the brass that could be harmful. Brass is a metal composed primarily of copper and zinc. Not absolutely positive , but I believe both of those can be found in vitamins.
I don't ( and we don't ) know any true science on vaping, but I'm sure we are all the mice in our own lab .( Some lab mice live long, LOL )
Within many years from now facts will surface of the pros and cons of vaping, though we all know our lungs were designed for air only.
Till the day , vaping's OK,
Cause hiting on a smoke, we know is no joke.
VapeOn

Did you catch the "potentially"? And the thing about brass is, the main components are zinc and copper. That being said, small cheap parts are commonly mixed with a bit of lead to make it easier to machine. Personally, I'll go ahead and not take a chance on lead. You're free to set your own standard and I won't criticize you for it. No disrespect meant.

 

[edyle]

Did you catch the "potentially"? And the thing about brass is, the main components are zinc and copper. That being said, small cheap parts are commonly mixed with a bit of lead to make it easier to machine. Personally, I'll go ahead and not take a chance on lead. You're free to set your own standard and I won't criticize you for it. No disrespect meant.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Oh yeah, good point about the lead.
Lead is not deliberatedly mixed, but in cheap metals what happens is there is more lead, not because it is added, but because it isn't removed.

Metals do not occur in a pure form; they occur mixed; a gold mine will also have lots of copper, lead, mercury and other heavy metals; after mining, the metals are separated from each other; to extract the purest metals requires more cost, so there are cheap versions and purer, more expensive versions.

 

[yuseffuhler]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Oh yeah, good point about the lead.
Lead is not deliberatedly mixed, but in cheap metals what happens is there is more lead, not because it is added, but because it isn't removed.

Metals do not occur in a pure form; they occur mixed; a gold mine will also have lots of copper, lead, mercury and other heavy metals; after mining, the metals are separated from each other; to extract the purest metals requires more cost, so there are cheap versions and purer, more expensive versions.

Based on what I've read, the lead content of brass is added for easier working of the metals. There are alternatives, but they're more expensive. Not terribly important points, but the content of the brass (possible lead) is less important than the way it is machined. Even low lead brass can leach way more than is safe if the lead is exposed. All these things being considered, I wouldn't expose the brass under the chrome just in case.

 

[Signmaker]

I just ordered these Drill bits, I'm hoping to fix my RBA section. IM GOING to drill holes into the RBA to open up juice channels..

Hold off on that. Check out Rip's "Pancake Wick" video. Solves the RBA's wicking issues.

(I really wish Twisted, Matt, Grimm, etc, would cover "flat" wicking, so I could quit sending people to Rip...oh well)

 

[Thrasher]

Lead in brass also leaches to the surface under high temperature.

Why not get a real rba that works

 

[Gahh]

Why not get a real rba that works[/QUOTE]

The RBA is for drippers. I don't have the time for that.
As for the Kangertech with RBA ,,,,I have it but have not used it. The concept of the e-liquid coming up the channels to the bottom of the wick don't sound like a great concept.