Kayfun 3.1 clone dry hitting, need help

[Timothy Moore]

Ok so having a little problem.

Recently got kayfun 3.1 clone. Not sure which clone manfac
Started getting dry hits. I did go to this thread here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...kayfun-russian-wick-setup-works-great-me.html and I am building in this fashion. It did help some, but still getting dry hits.

Then one day I unscrewed the top a bit and noticed bubbles come up thru the juice. Took a toot, and had a good hit.
For a while, I would periodically unscrew the top a bit so the juice could "flood" the chamber. But it isn't really flooding. It is just making it operate normally.

Finally today, I just left the top loose. Not about-to-fall-off loose. Just loose enough so that I could see the o-ring. So the o-ring wasn't seating.

I know this is supposed to be a vacuum operated device, but it seems to work better when operating as an open system. And it isn't flooding.

I am tempted just to remove the o-ring and see if screwing it down without the o-ring won't just fix it.

But still, it isn't operating as designed.

Any suggestions?

 

[Baditude]

It sounds like you are not getting adequate wicking. I'm assuming you are using the appropriate volume of cotton in your build if you followed the info in the above link. Too much or two little cotton can cause poor performance in a Kayfun. Too much cotton within the coil can strangulate the wick so that you get dry hits. Less is more. You aren't rolling the cotton too tightly to get it into the coil, are you?

Another possibility is the air flow is inadequate and preventing a vacuum to be established. You might need some routine cleaning maintanance. I was getting an increasingly tight draw with my KFL+. I followed the suggestion of another owner who recommended taking the KFL completely apart and soaking it a couple of times in very hot water. I was surprised to find small black specks of matter which apparently came out of the air flow channels of the base. Probe both ends of the air holes with a needle or paper clip to insure nothing is blocking them.

 

[mewtwo]

Maybe too much cotton in your build.

 

[Michael7]

Don't give up it took me a week to get mine to where I could build it right everytime. I used a different tutorial that emphasized on a horizontal coil build rather than a diagonal. Also I have found more cotton to be better for me and using a 5/64 bit. I don't really lay my cotton Down like in the tutorial you posted instead I spread it flat against the walls that come up vertically from the juice deck to the pos and neg post ( hope that makes sense) and basically only the very tip of my cotton touches the deck and leaves plenty of space on it. Just found the tutorial I highly recommend you follow it and keep experimenting I think its just one of those things that take time http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tutorials/503153-kayfun-3-1-microcoil-cotton-guide.html


Sent from my HTCEVOV4G using Tapatalk

 

[Silver5656]

I do it similar to michael7. I use the "chimney" method after trying different methods. I put in the minimal amount of cotton possible, pull the cotton thru the chimney, cut it slightly longer than the chimney (cutting it at chimney length caused too many issues, but like 5mm longer worked perfect), add some drops onto the coil and the cotton, then use a tiny screwdriver to "poke" the cotton flat against the walls of the center post thingy (not against the walls of the chimney). I make sure I can see light through the wicking channel. This works well for me

 

[deltas4]

it sounds to me that you are blocking the juice channels with cotton you have to keep these clear so the juice can pool around the base i cut my cotton and push it to the side next to the juice channel never had a dry hit or flooding issue but my kayfun is a gen kfl plus

 

[Juff]

The way I build on mine is wrap using a 5/64 drill bit or 2mm screwdriver tip, then angle to coil 45 degrees(imagine the terminals were north and south on a compass, coil will run southwest to north east). Run the across the side of the base to the opposite terminal, use just enough cotton to reach the corner of the terminal and cover about 2/3 of the of the base by the liquid channel. Make sure the liquid channel itself is completely exposed and unobstructed, and make sure no cotton gets caught in the threads when you tighten down the chimney.

 

[anumber1]

Sounds like too much cotton to me.

I use a 5/64 drill bit to wind my 28 gauge coils. I generally go for 1.5 to 1.7 ohms.

I set the coils pretty high from the air hole (2 to 3mm) and orient it diagonally.

Typically, I trim the wick after installing the chimney base, cutting the wick even with the top.

When I tuck the wick down, I keep it close the the sides of the deck and not blocking the juice channels.

I switched to Rayon for wicking material a few weeks ago and am really happy with the results. Great stuff!

There is a huge thread regarding rayon in the rebuildable atomizer sub forum.

 

[SleeZy]

I do it similar to michael7. I use the "chimney" method after trying different methods. I put in the minimal amount of cotton possible, pull the cotton thru the chimney, cut it slightly longer than the chimney (cutting it at chimney length caused too many issues, but like 5mm longer worked perfect), add some drops onto the coil and the cotton, then use a tiny screwdriver to "poke" the cotton flat against the walls of the center post thingy (not against the walls of the chimney). I make sure I can see light through the wicking channel. This works well for me

This is what i do, it works every time for me.
I had issues at first, but after learning this technique i was good to go.

So i realy recommend trying this one out.

 

[classwife]

Moved to Rebuildable Atomizer Systems from APV Discussion

 

[Timothy Moore]

Fellow vapers, I want to thank you all for your help.
I kind of did an amalgam of everything y'all said. Kept basically the same build, but reduced cotton.
Not fully through a tank yet, but seems to be vaping just fine without having to unscrew the top.
Thank you all