Kayfun 3.1 Leaking from Fill Valve?

[JohnMaguire2013]

So I finally got a good coil up and running on my Kayfun 3.1. The wire I ordered off Amazon was a *LOT* easier to work with than the stuff I picked up at a local B&M and I got 1.4 ohms on my first try.

However, the fill valve on my 3.1 is leaking. I'm beginning to think maybe I put too much cotton in the coil, causing the device not to wick very efficiently, and leading to a lot of excess ending up in the drip collector, the collector filling, and now leaking out the fill valve. Does this make sense?

Also, the drip collector seems to be screwed on too tight to the base and I can't get it off to empty it. Any suggestions?

I'm vaping 100% VG. This issue seems to be not *as* bad when I tighten up the airflow controller, but I'd really like it to be a bit more airy as I'm not getting very good draw from it this tight.

Turned up the voltage a bit and I'm getting a better hit on a fully tightened down controller, but it's still leaking a bit.

I can keep the leakage from getting all over my tank if I hold it so the fill valve is facing upwards and take a hit, but I'd rather not have to worry about this leaking out in my pocket all the time.

 

[horton]

Before getting all complex, the first thing I would do is take your device completely apart and thoroughly clean the base in warm water. While you have it apart take a syringe filled with water and see how well it goes through the fill valve. You should see the water come onto the deck. Then try it in the other direction. Put water through the hole in the deck and see if the valve is OK, you should encounter pressure, indicating that the valve is seated properly. (I use a pink plastic dispensing tip -- believe it is 20ga, like it better than the metal blunt needle)
I've had my valve get some gunk in it and it would not close properly causing a leak. I was all worried and the solution was very simple. Just passing the water through the valve most of the time cleans it and you are leak free!!

 

[Wow1420]

I think I can answer about the collector tank. You have to unscrew the center bolt of the 510 connector first.

I can't help with the leaking. One of my clones leaks a little too, mostly right after filling, then it settles down. Next time it's empty, I will try cleaning as horton suggests.

 

[folkphys]

The cloners can effectively clone everything except for a tiny ball bearing one-way valve

 

[petemoss]

That fill valve is easily broken if you used a metal needle. I broke mine right away and had to seal the fill hole with silicon adhesive and now fill from the top. And what Suegeo said is right; first you have to unscrew the 510 screw.

 

[horton]

I still do not understand why there is no mention by any of the mfg's regarding the fill valve. It's like it is a "non-part". I really like using it, but am very concerned that it will fail and I'll have to do as petemoss did. It will bug the he(( out of me knowing the device is not "perfect"...lol. Why can't we get info on how service, repair, or replace this valve??
The B&M I got my Russian from told me not to use the fill valve -- said you got more in by top filling. Now that is really peachy..... a vendor who sells something they don't know how to use properly. I asked if they tried to get info from their dist. and I rec'd a blank stare in answer to my question. Don't think I'll be shopping there in the future...lol.

 

[Thunderball]

A real one wont break like that. I fill from the top anyway.

And yes, I did the fill thing with a metal syring once and my CLONES, as previously said, will now leak sometimes at first....then settle down and quit. Bet its an air pressure thing.

 

[horton]

I agree Thunderball about air pressure causing some leaking. I also found (had it happen on one of our Russian's) that the valve will get gummed up and a cleaning in just hot water solves the problem. As I understand the valve, it is a spring pushing a ball bearing into a seat to seal it. So pressure from the device SHOULD help push it closed. This is pure conjecture on my part......but sort of makes sense.

 

[petemoss]

I still do not understand why there is no mention by any of the mfg's regarding the fill valve. It's like it is a "non-part". I really like using it, but am very concerned that it will fail and I'll have to do as petemoss did. It will bug the he(( out of me knowing the device is not "perfect"...lol. Why can't we get info on how service, repair, or replace this valve??
The B&M I got my Russian from told me not to use the fill valve -- said you got more in by top filling. Now that is really peachy..... a vendor who sells something they don't know how to use properly. I asked if they tried to get info from their dist. and I rec'd a blank stare in answer to my question. Don't think I'll be shopping there in the future...lol.

Hey horton, you have no idea what grief that #$### fill hole put me through! At first I assumed it was an allen screw but none of my allen wrenches would fit. I bought a micro allen wrench set on Ebay and had to wait three weeks (from Hong Kong). Still, I couldn't turn the screw. When I examined the screw with a magnifying glass, I saw the hole was round! When I went to push in a blunt tip needle, it wouldn't go in. I must have damaged the valve with the allen wrenches. After plugging up the fill hole, I built a coil with a cotton wick, thinking "if this doesn't work I'm going to throw this disaster in the trash!" But it vaped perfectly! To this day, it still works great and I haven't even changed the wick.

 

[jonhall2]

john i don't know about the fill port yet as i received a smovesto 3.1 clone a couple days ago. you must remove the contact screw completely before you can unscrew the base. i even read the manual online about contact screw adjustment and somehow missed this important knowledge. i had great difficulty getting the tank sections apart and i guess i thought the base was just tight. rubber jaw pliers broke it loose and broke the contact pin that holds the positive block down. i actually found one on ebay for $5 and will back running in a few days. it is real important to wash this device completely before use. i had done so on everything i could get apart in the beginning but on my first tank there was machine oil taste. so it had to be coming from the air chamber in the base. sure enough it was. i used to work for a brilliant man that was a doctor of optical physics. he worked for bausch and lomb for many years until he invented a laboratory bottle washer that used ultrasonic sound the vibrate the water and sterilize glassware. long story, ok, to clean oil from a microscope lens or telescope lens after grinding, finishing, and polishing it was a three step process. first they used simple detergent. then denatured alcohol to cut more oil. finally they used ether to completely remove anything left. my kayfun parts are sitting in a vodka bath until my center pin arrives. when it gets here i will spray it all with starting fluid (ether) and i guarantee i won't taste oil next time. spray ether outside it is highly flammable.
i was perplexed by the fill port and not happy it didn't have the screw in the base. i received a clear m-tank today and it is much easier to access from the top anyway. i won't use the port.

 

[horton]

That is too bad about the fill port, petemoss..... Don't mean to sound like a broken record, but if the companies who make these devices would only say something or have an instruction sheet problems like yours could possibly be avoided. Considering what we pay for this stuff you would expect it. I guess I've groused enough about the problem....lol. Glad to know that you are having good results after filling the hole. I'm currently on 3 weeks for my coil and maybe 4 -5 days for the cotton wick. I have been changing juices quite a bit lately hence changing wicks. I think it will last quite a long time if not accidentally burned.

 

[McCoys]

Spring loaded ball valves just aren't up to doing their task in some units. I tried using a plastic tip inserted into the valves round hole and it was bendy. Then tried to gently nudge the ball with the metal tipped bottle that came with the Russian. This damaged the ball valve and caused leaking. I packed some cotton in the hole from the build deck side and top filled the Full Russian. The cotton swelled enough to stop the leak. Top filling is messy but is getting easier and easier as well as less messy. I am paying a buck per ML and need to stretch each drop so I am on a steep learning curve.

 

[heyilikethis]

one trick i picked up for a leaky fill valve was to hole the kayfun upside down cover the airhole tightly and blow a small quick burst of into the fill valve and that works anytime it does leak, i top-fill tho so might not be the same cause in either case