Kayfun leaker

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djbeckett

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I've been using the fasttech kayfun lite for three weeks. After filling, regardless of top or bottom fill, I'll get the juice to escape until the pressure "gets right". After a few minutes the leak stops. Through the forum I've tried all suggestions. Watched youtube videos regarding top till.

Top fill: juice runs from the airhole 'til the pressure is achieved. Bottom fill: juice run through the mouthpiece 'til pressure is achieved.

I'm still doing something wrong. I'm using 3mm wick, 32 ga. kanthal wire. Don't wish to use cotton, smaller Ø wick. There has got to be a way to fill w/o losing liquid.......
 

djbeckett

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So I'll talk to myself, share my finding w/fasttech kayfun lite users:

I stuck with the top fill, but covered the air hole with my thumb. I screwed the top cap ALMOST tight (still holding the air hole) and turned it upside down until I saw the air pocket completely shift. Tighten the top down. I made up a couple of cradles, always having the airhole facing up. Haven't lost one drop. When I take a draw, I know where the airhole is, always have it facing up. NO LEAKS.

I did buy one genuine kfl, ≈$50.00. Two fasttechs ≈$30.00. They work the same to me.
that's the best I can do. I still have the $60.00 I would have spent extra on the real things. 001.jpg
 
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DavidOck

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Just got a Tobeco with the same issues. But I have an EhPro KF and a SvoeMesto one, and neither of them have the problem at all, whether I bottom fill or top fill.

BTW, your top fill method is right on. When I top fill, I'll fill about half way up the top threads, and then do as you did.

I have found that, after if finally stops dripping, it's fine for the rest of the tank. And provides a good vape.

addenda

Figured I'd use the provided silica and kanthal, but I probably will switch to cotton next time its empty. That's what I use in my others...
 
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djbeckett

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I filled the fasttech kfl for the first time, stood it up on its end and went for a walk. When I came back every drop was gone. I thought "oh man, I've bought some crap". I've read countless articles, numerous videos. That's how I finally got it right.
I checked out that Tobeco, interesting!

A coworker tried the cotton, didn't like the taste. I'll give it a shot.....
 

DavidOck

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I filled the fasttech kfl for the first time, stood it up on its end and went for a walk. When I came back every drop was gone. I thought "oh man, I've bought some crap". I've read countless articles, numerous videos. That's how I finally got it right.
I checked out that Tobeco, interesting!

A coworker tried the cotton, didn't like the taste. I'll give it a shot.....

Haven't vaped it dry yet, so haven't switched it over to cotton. But the SvoeMesto and the KHPro versions are better made, imo. Smoother threading, no leaks.

Other things I'll be looking at are the height of the coil over the air intake, although it seems that too high is often a cause of leaking and I'm sure this build isn't that. Maybe too low, so it's not high enough to break the surface tension and just keeps pulling more juice up... to drain down. And whether or not the silica of the provided coil is actually into the vertical slots on the base. I know with cotton it's going to "fill" them because it's such a looser wick, the silica not so much. Could be possible as well that the silica wick just needs to be longer than I make my cotton, since it doesn't expand as much.

Life's too short to spend all my time re-dripping. I prefer to just grab it and vape.
 

djbeckett

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I keep all three kfl filled. I'm actually getting burn hits from the real one. Shoot, I prefer the clones today!

I tried a different build: I ran the coil wrap perpendicular to the post screws, whereas I previously ran the wrap in-line with the screws. I cut the ends shorter, just long enough to seat in those two ledges. The setup has lasted a little longer. I do admit they will leak immediately after filling. Still doing the cradle holder.......
 

Cool-breeze

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Another thought on your leaking issue: after you fill it give it a few pulls without firing. This will literally suck the liquid out of the air hole. Also cotton wick is def worth a try. There's tons on here about the different pros and cons but in a nutshell cotton is cheaper. A bag will last well over a year. It's easier to build the smaller coils. Never dry burn your cotton. Never. My last tid bit is don't give up. The kf can be a bit finicky at first.
 
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Midniteoyl

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Some people say to blow in the little air hole a few puffs... some say to pull on it w/o firing a few times.. Read the other day about blowing INTO the drip tip a few times with your finger over the air hole. Dunno. I bottom fill and never leak. How full are you filling it? Dont go all the way until it comes out the fill hole. Stop when you get just past the clear section of the tank. And I know they say not to cover the juice channels, but it seems to me that since silica doesnt swell like cotton, you have to at least cover the channels with the silica. Should help.
 

DavidOck

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Further thoughts...

My Svoemesto and KHPro still work darn near perfectly. I can top or bottom fill either, with no leaks. I do draw a few times through the drip tip after filling either way to establish the slight vacuum inside. (Can't see that blowing in would work, as it would build pressure, and you need vacuum.)

The Tobeco, rewicked with cotton, will still leak if I top fill, but seems to be ok with bottom fill and a few draws.

On all three, I use the "rabbit ear" method for the wick. Pull both sides up through the bottom tube of the chamber, and cut about 1/4 inch over the top. Tuck back down around the blocks so it's touching the bottom of the base.

Absolutely right, Midniteoyl, silica doesn't swell as much as cotton, and cutting it short of the back could lead to poor wicking, dry hits. But even with cotton, I think the wick needs to be down to the channels. You don't want to pack it in tight, though.
 

Underwhelmed

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I had a Kayfun (Tobeco KFL+ actually) that I had a leaking issue with.

Turns out the o-ring in the top cap where the top of the chimney seats was bad. Swapped it out and haven't had an issue since.

I don't top fill since my clone has a screw for filling it through the base, but I see where top filling could have either worn an o-ring or it could just be slightly out of alignment for proper sealing.

The only other time I had any leaking issue (other than leaving it in a hot car, but being in Texas, a Kayfun in a sealed car is gonna leak like 7 months out of the year) was when I first built it and had the coil and wick too close to the deck. I always check and make sure I have a 2mm gap there now.

Hope you get it sorted.
 

SupplyDaddy

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I bottom fill my ft kfl. Rarely have any leaks. I fill to over flow through the fill hole, suck a bit back out with the bottles syringe, keep the air hole covered, put in the screw, dlip it right side up and release the air hole.
Using 32ga kanthal 2.5 or 3mm braided silica cut just short enough to touch the mid deck area.
I lay this thing down anyway, including upside down (when left in the car during the day) and carry in a rear pocket as I walk aroind work all night.
No leaks here...
 
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djbeckett

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I think theres no fixing these kayfun lite clones. Today, I removed the chimney o-ring, replaced with the spare o-ring that came with the $50.00 unit. No change, same senario: leaks thru the air hole until proper vacuum acieved. I'm thinking about stuffing two o-rings in the top cap. I tried another suggesion and filled from the bottom. Juice ran out the mouthpiece. The clone o-ring does have a slight flat spot, and is egg-shaped. I tried to squeeze back to round, no luck. I had some similar o-rings from air conditioning applications: the fit was too tight, spewed juice into my blow hole. I'm gonna replace all clone o-rings with the authentic kfl spares, but I don't think that's the problem. I'm convinced it's the chimney ring. If I ever solve it I'll let ya'all know. 001.jpg
 

VaPreis

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So I'll talk to myself, share my finding w/fasttech kayfun lite users:

I stuck with the top fill, but covered the air hole with my thumb. I screwed the top cap ALMOST tight (still holding the air hole) and turned it upside down until I saw the air pocket completely shift. Tighten the top down. I made up a couple of cradles, always having the airhole facing up. Haven't lost one drop. When I take a draw, I know where the airhole is, always have it facing up. NO LEAKS.

I did buy one genuine kfl, ≈$50.00. Two fasttechs ≈$30.00. They work the same to me.
that's the best I can do. I still have the $60.00 I would have spent extra on the real things.View attachment 347873

I have two of the FT KFL like you have pictured and both are performing flawlessly. Nice finish and smooth threading, but......

I did have an initial problem with BOTH of them where the o-ring in the top cap would get pinched when screwing on the cap causing a vacuum leak in the tank allowing it to leak. After I realized what was going on, it sometimes took several tries to get the cap to screw on without the o-ring getting pinched.

After several uses, the o-rings took a set and are no longer a problem. But out of habit, I always take a look through the top to make sure the o-ring isn't pinched and sticking out over the top of the chimney.
 

djbeckett

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I never thought to remove the mouthpiece and look. Sure enough, I see some of the o-ring thru the hole. So when I top fill, screwing the top back down mis-aligns the ring. Now what?

I'll try to back the top off a couple of threads and re-seat the o-ring. Maybe use the bottom fill only (not disturbing the top will help)?
 

VaPreis

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I never thought to remove the mouthpiece and look. Sure enough, I see some of the o-ring thru the hole. So when I top fill, screwing the top back down mis-aligns the ring. Now what?

I'll try to back the top off a couple of threads and re-seat the o-ring. Maybe use the bottom fill only (not disturbing the top will help)?

I always bottom fill because it eliminates the flooding.

After a few tries with the top cap, it eventually will fit correctly. And after a few builds and re-wicks, the pinched o-ring problem doesn't occur anymore on either of mine. Apparently, they just need some time to stretch, I guess.
 

Midniteoyl

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I think theres no fixing these kayfun lite clones. Today, I removed the chimney o-ring, replaced with the spare o-ring that came with the $50.00 unit. No change, same senario: leaks thru the air hole until proper vacuum acieved. I'm thinking about stuffing two o-rings in the top cap. I tried another suggesion and filled from the bottom. Juice ran out the mouthpiece. The clone o-ring does have a slight flat spot, and is egg-shaped. I tried to squeeze back to round, no luck. I had some similar o-rings from air conditioning applications: the fit was too tight, spewed juice into my blow hole. I'm gonna replace all clone o-rings with the authentic kfl spares, but I don't think that's the problem. I'm convinced it's the chimney ring. If I ever solve it I'll let ya'all know. View attachment 369452

Just go down to your local ACE or mom&pop hardware and get a slightly fatter o-ring.. I have had no problems what-so-ever from my EHPro. Its chimney o-ring is nice a fat. Enough so that it removes the chimney with the top cap most times :)


EDIT: NM.. Read the other replies :)... If your chimney is pushing the o-ring outta the way, you can lube it with a touch of juice to help it slide in better, or slightly ease the outside edge of the chimney tube with sandpaper/file.. slightly sand it to break the hard edge. It'll guide it better into the o-ring.
 
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