Kayfun Lite Leaks
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Both Ehpro and Hcigar make good quality clones. I have 3 Ehpro's and 1 Hcigar. All work flawlessly. Had the leaking problem when I got my first one. Did the air hole cover fill method and not a drop since. By far my favorite tanks.
There is an air leak. I should just save this advice to a text file so I can copy and paste, but here goes...
Check all of your o-rings, paying special attention to the one in the top cap that fits on the chimney. Build your coil as usual, and put the whole thing together, but do not fill it! Now plug the air inlet hole, and try to take a pull. It should be absolutely air tight. If it is not, something is out of place, and it will leak. If it is air tight, fill it from the bottom!!! They put that fill hole down there for a reason! Vape happily.
Good luck, and welcome to ECF!
Check all of your o-rings, paying special attention to the one in the top cap that fits on the chimney. Build your coil as usual, and put the whole thing together, but do not fill it! Now plug the air inlet hole, and try to take a pull. It should be absolutely air tight. If it is not, something is out of place, and it will leak. If it is air tight, fill it from the bottom!!! They put that fill hole down there for a reason! Vape happily.
Good luck, and welcome to ECF!
Baha, I knew that something would come up about this today. It seems to be a constant problem, Thank god for the search function. But yeah, my Kayfun Lite just hemorrhaged an entire tank into my lap. WHOO... Good think I brought the Nautilus as a backup on a whim. I will check my connections when I get home tonight. Shame, however, as it was the absolute last of my MBV cinnamon roll. I'm running all my juice bottles dry dealing with this little leak issue. It's funny, because I had it filled TWICE where it only leaked from the top when filling upside down from the drip tip, then it stopped and I emptied both of those tanks in pure bliss. Then I decided to re-wick it this morning with cotton and that's when the airhole juice hemorrhage started. Oh learning curve, how I love thee...
I had to fix my friends kayfun clone as it was leaking.
First thing i noticed when i opened it up was the juice channels were HUGE, they were easily double the size of my own ones, (real and clone).
I ended up with a long cotton wick, that sat in the juice channels, and it fixed the leak immediately.
Really it depends on the clone, there are good and bad ones out there.
First thing i noticed when i opened it up was the juice channels were HUGE, they were easily double the size of my own ones, (real and clone).
I ended up with a long cotton wick, that sat in the juice channels, and it fixed the leak immediately.
Really it depends on the clone, there are good and bad ones out there.
I have two ehpro kayfun clones and neither of them leak and fit all my mods perfectly. The only leakage I get is when top filling and that's a couple of drops of the air hole when i invert it during a refill and not an initial fill. I also inspect my top o-ring often to make sure it didn't tear and that the chimney o-ring is in good shape.
I cut the wick 3/8" long and pushed the wick just below the threads on the chimney tube; I'm confident the channels aren't blocked. The top o-ring (black in color) has a groove cut in the tube, and that groove is cut up into the tube (≈.1"). The groove is wider than the o-ring, its not a snug fit. From all the talk, that may be the culprit. These Fasttech units don't come with extra parts, but the "genuine" unit I bought prior to these did (I paid $45.00, versus $15.00 ea. for the copies). I'm reading everything and trying the suggestions to fix it.
Heres my solution, until I figure it out (air hole pointed up,no leaks)
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A leak from the airhole is usually a problem with your wicks/overfilling. However, with over filling it will subside after you vape it a bit. The leaking I was experiencing with my authentic was just droplets on the bottom. It wasn't a huge problem but it was annoying. However, I fixed that by readjusting the pin insulator. When you remove the pin to clean it out, you have to be sure to seat it right or you'll experience that. For your problem, I'd equate it to the cost of saving money on the product. You pay less you get less. Though, I've heard there are really well made clones. But I would try playing with the amount/technique of wick you are currently using to try to fix the problem.
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Don't want to come off as snooty with my comment either. I had a clone before purchasing my authentic (clone was tobecco model) and I had numerous issues that I haven't had with my authentic. One of which was flooding. Not an elitist by any means 
My latest rebuild seems o.k. I wrap the wire w/ a 4-40 screw, 3mm silica wick. This time I left the winding WAY above the airhole, about 1/8". I've stood it up for 5 minutes, it's holding. I've seen some rebuild with the winding perpendicular to the posts. This latest one is in-line with the posts. I've also seen them put at a 45°. UHHHHHHH.....
Alright, I'll do that. Maybe I'm packing too much wick? I think I may have filled too much, now I'm filling until it reaches the top of the window.
Fennario TN? Dad born/died in Dyserburg. Small town U.S.A.
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This is the biggest load a KWrap I have ever heard. There are Thousands of cloned Kayfuns being used without problems. I have 2 right now loaded with juice and No Leaks.
The original design with the sloped sides fill hole and no rubber washer around it is known to leak. That is why the new V2 units, both original and all the clones, have a recessed flat bottom fill hole with a rubber seal on the screw and the screw is a Pan Head, which has a flat bottom, instead of a flat head that has sloped sides.
As to the OP's leak problem is it either the chimney isn't tight, the larger section of the chimney isn't sitting flat, tight, on the base or the O ring at the top is defective and not sealing properly around the chimney. He has an air leak that is allowing juice to flow into where the wick is and running out the center shaft air hole and out the side air intake hole.
I can fill mine up all the way, but leave a some space for air, and set it anyway I like and No Leaks. Maybe I'm just lucky, which would be a first, and got two perfect Kayfun Lite + V2 clones.
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Check out this post on the AR15.com site. It is the perfect coil and wicking procedure.
Kayfun micro coil build tutorial (pic heavy) -
I've tried the method where you lift the wicks and screw on the chimney then cut the wicks and stuff them down and never had it work out well. I now wet the wicks and tuck them on the sides of the base, like in the article I linked to, and have no problems. My wick ends up being just 1"+ long, end to end, before I wet it and do the positioning.
I then screw on the large section of the chimney and inspect the wick to make sure I haven't caught any of it in the threads.
I'm one week into the Fasttech kayfun lites: they've quit leaking. The two thing I did differently from the first fill was raise the coil WAY above the airhole and only fill to the top of the glass. Goodbye Kanger T-3'S............
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I'll try that. I did do something different, based on this pic. I wrapped 10X coils, whereas I used to do 6. It came out to 5 ohms, I'm normally around 3. Worked good.
What size Kanthal are you using? 5 ohms?????? Most everyone runs KF's somewhere around 1.3 to 1.8 ohms using 28g Kanthal wrapped on a 3/32" drill bit.
I'm going to drop down to a 5/64" drill bit with 8 wraps to try and get a 1.3-1.4 ohm coil. My coils now come in anywhere from 1.5 to 1.6 with 8 wraps on the 3/32" drill bit.
As one poster said it's all about the seal. If the top of the tank o-ring or the o-ring where the chimney extend into the top or the chimney top is not seated into the tube, these things will leak.
Taking the tank tubes on and off can damage an o-ring, that is probably why they always give you replacement rings. Have had that happen once already and replaced the top o-ring and leak fixed.
Always leave an air gap when filling, it's necessary to creating a proper vacuum so the thing will work.
I'm not an expert but I have found that it is real easy to get a coil-wick arrangement to work on these. I just use silica wick and 1.8ohm ready wires (NR-R-NR). With the ready wires I don't have to count turns, just keep wrapping until the resistance section is completely wrapped around the wick. Lazy, I guess.
I now have 4 of the EHPRO KFL+ V1 models and they work fantastic. The first KF I bought was from FastTech for an incredibly low price and that has never been used. It was built so poorly (maybe it was just mine), that I could never get it to stop leaking.
Taking the tank tubes on and off can damage an o-ring, that is probably why they always give you replacement rings. Have had that happen once already and replaced the top o-ring and leak fixed.
Always leave an air gap when filling, it's necessary to creating a proper vacuum so the thing will work.
I'm not an expert but I have found that it is real easy to get a coil-wick arrangement to work on these. I just use silica wick and 1.8ohm ready wires (NR-R-NR). With the ready wires I don't have to count turns, just keep wrapping until the resistance section is completely wrapped around the wick. Lazy, I guess.
I now have 4 of the EHPRO KFL+ V1 models and they work fantastic. The first KF I bought was from FastTech for an incredibly low price and that has never been used. It was built so poorly (maybe it was just mine), that I could never get it to stop leaking.
I use kanthal 32 ga. 3mm wick. 4-40 screw to wrap the coil. I'm a recovering Kanger T-3 user; those items worked great for rebuilding the T-3's. I said "no leak" yesterday, in fact do leak. I am cutting the wick pretty long, it may be the problem. I noticed that when I filled, it would leak. After some draws the leaks stop. Also, this wick unravels badly at the cut ends. Maybe some strands are blocking the channels. I've seen braided wicks, those are better?
I got 5 ohms because I wrapped 10X coils, I tried something different. Usually I wrap 6 coils, which measures ≈2.7 ohms.
Maybe this, maybe that. I do love these things. I'll keep limping along 'till I find the solution.
I got 5 ohms because I wrapped 10X coils, I tried something different. Usually I wrap 6 coils, which measures ≈2.7 ohms.
Maybe this, maybe that. I do love these things. I'll keep limping along 'till I find the solution.
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Really don't think blocking the channels with the wick will cause leaking. If you completely block the channels, no juice can get into the chamber, no juice - no leak. Blocking the channels leads to dry hits.
I wrap my coil directly onto the wick, 2mm braided silica. Found the 3mm stuff to be too big to work with in this tight space.
I wrap my coil directly onto the wick, 2mm braided silica. Found the 3mm stuff to be too big to work with in this tight space.
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