So I have been using 32 Gage kantal wire between 3 and 6 wraps on my attempt to rebuild kanger heads. On first fire up, I constantly Pop the heads, in other words, the wire breaks when I put a 3.7 volt load on them, and I have to start all over. My OHMS read between 1.6 and 2.2 when I run them. Do I need thicker wire? Whats going on? thanks!
Keep poping my coils
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I would get thicker wire if I were you. The only thing you can do in the meantime is to try to evenly space each coil, including the two leads, and make sure you cover or stuff the two leads with moist wicking material. But definitely get some thicker kanthal asap!
before you buy new kanthal....although I'd still recommend it because eventually you'll probably try on RDAs and RBAs, microcoils, etc., I would just make sure you pulse heat the coils in very short bursts. I pop coils when I hold the button down for too long. After you're confident in the coil, you shouldn't have to worry much about popping if they stay wet.
well I think I am covering the coils pretty well, What is thicker 30 or 34? I am sorry for not understanding the gauges. I have used them to make my RBA, and had no problems, it only seem to happen when I try to make Protank type rebuilds. I space the wires pretty well I use a small metal screw to make the coil and then once installed use a toothpick to even out anything that got out of place in the process. I am using cotton and silica for my wicks. Tried ss mesh with no success, Got unreadable ohms, and then they popped instantly when i put them on charge. Does more or less coils help? Thanks
I used a 6/7 wrap with 32 gauge Kanthal and nailed the resistance consistently between 2.0 - 2.2 Ohms. Never popped a coil, but I rarely used a mechanical. See if they pop on a regulated APV just as a check to see if you get any different result. Good luck to you!
Yeah thats the problem I had too. Kanthal gauges are backwards. The lower the number, the thicker the wire. 30 is thicker than 32. 32 is thicker than 36. 36 is so thin that I can barely stand to use it. It was all I used for a long time but I know better now thank gooooooood.
Good advice. Regardless what I read on my multimeter, I always pop my new coil on a mod that has a resistance readout, just in case I mucked something up putting everything together.
Well, all wire gauges are "backwards" in that way, been like that since the middle of the 19th century...
[/Cliff Clavin]
FUN Fact. 
Wiki...Increasing gauge numbers give decreasing wire diameters, which is similar to many other non-metric gauging systems. This gauge system originated in the number of drawing operations used to produce a given gauge of wire. Very fine wire (for example, 30 gauge) required more passes through the drawing dies than did 0 gauge wire. Manufacturers of wire formerly had proprietary wire gauge systems; the development of standardized wire gauges rationalized selection of wire for a particular purpose.
Wiki...Increasing gauge numbers give decreasing wire diameters, which is similar to many other non-metric gauging systems. This gauge system originated in the number of drawing operations used to produce a given gauge of wire. Very fine wire (for example, 30 gauge) required more passes through the drawing dies than did 0 gauge wire. Manufacturers of wire formerly had proprietary wire gauge systems; the development of standardized wire gauges rationalized selection of wire for a particular purpose.
Sounds like you're shorting things out when you put everything back together. I use .30 AWG when rebuilding my Protank heads and double check everything once the head is put back together before applying power to the coil.
Your problem may be that you are shorting out the wires on the sides of the coil head base. The knager has a very small hole to pass the wires down through. If the positive lead wire is touching the side of the base, she'll pop. I'd wrap the wire first, real tight around a 1/16' drill bit or large paper clip. That way you are sure to get the wraps nice and tight and close together, then thread your wick through the coil. Cotton or silica, your choice. I'd try cotton, easily available and cheap. The kanger coil is basically a micro or nano coil anyways.
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